Mrs Paint was coming home from shopping in the '86 the other day, and a 68 yr old woman pulled out in front of her. To Mrs Paint's credit, she did everything possible to miss the old bat, including leaving the road, but still wound up making contact. Caught the left front fender in front of the wheel, so at least no suspension damage. But, apparently she got hit hard enough to shove the cowl/rad support about a half inch to the passenger side. My old bird's crooked now :disappoin .
I bought the car new in November of 1985, and have babied it since to keep it going. I still love the looks of the old fox bodies, especially pre 87, with the four eyes. It qualifies as a vintage vehicle, because it's all original, but I'm sure blue book on it is next to nothing. I don't even want to look. I'm just hoping the damage isn't too severe to repair. I hit a coyote running 80 MPH with it one time, and had to pull the rad support back down. These old birds are TOUGH.
I don't have a ton of money to roll into it, and was pinching pennies to build my sleeper from a pristine body and mechanically sound drivetrain. Looks like those pennies may go to just patching it up if I want to keep it. Gonna have to have a new front clip, left headlight door, bumper cover, and left front fender, and get it to a frame shop to pull the nose back to the left some. I guess that would be as good a time as any to get it painted. Goin back with original color (dark blue metallic) if I do get it done.
It was a hard enough shot to jam the right fender back into the door. There's NO gap on the left front corner of the hood, and nearly a half inch on the left front corner. I'm sure the hood's stuck. I haven't had the time to try to open it. The LF fender also has a roll in it where it hit/meets the hood. The damage looks minor, but I think it's worse than it looks. I haven't seen the other vehicle (Grand Caravan) yet, but Mrs Paint said she's gonna need a new door.
Sad to say, though, if it looks like it'll break the bank, I may wind up parting it out and getting something newer for Mrs Paint. The engine (long block) has only 45K on it, but it isn't going to fit anything else I have. The old C5 is the original, but still pulls strong and shifts true. It's got close to 110K on it. So, hopefully I'll get something outta the old bat's insurance to fix it up. I guess my big question is whether to get it 'straightened' before the new parts go on, or put the parts on then straighten it. I would think the replacement parts would fit better if I get it straightened first.
blue book on my 87 bird with 5.0 and 110,000 miles is 7,000 is good condition. Go get it appraised and make the insurance company pay.
Maybe if it was a Blue Book on a Buick T-Type i don't know a ton of 80s cars worth $7,000. Thats not a good story i hope it all works out for you.
Wow you are a piece of work! Kelley Blue Book only goes back to 88. An 88 sport with 110k miles books for a touch over $1000 in good condition.
How old is the book you where looking at 1987-1991 maybe?
The blue book on my 20th anny with only 50k is only 1500 Haystack, I hope everything works out for the best for you Old paint.
I looked at KBB for my car (only as an '88 since they don't go back to '87) and I get the following:
Trade-In Value:
Excellent: $775
Good $670
Fair $435
Private Party Value:
Excellent: $1265
Good $1085
Fair $755
Suggested Retail Value:
Excellent: $1785
Here's the pricing from the NADA Guide which includes older and collectible cars.
PRICING 1985 Thunderbird V6
Original MSRP: $11,020
Low Retail $3,375
Average Retail $6,650
High Retail $10,150
6 Cylinder Engine -10%
Air Conditioning 10% 10% 10%
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".
Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.
Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".
Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".
High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.
These numbers are not bad, eh?
Koo-koo, koo-koo :screwy:
Make sure you're not using the 1993 version of blue book.
worthy of noting...nobody who deals with cars use KBB. banks and dealers use NADA in general...not that it realy makes a differance here...
7000 huh. must have been a typo and meant 700. i can understand that.
bank gave me a loan of $3000 on my 86 cougar last year, and that wasn't the max...
I dont know how it all works out.
Try this NADA link below for my 88' XR7.
Original MSRP: $16,266
Base Price -- Low Retail - $1,750 / Average Retail - $2,900 / Value High Retail - $4,350
Options 302 V8 Engine - add 15%
Air Conditioning - add 10%
TOTAL PRICE -- Low Retail - $2,188 / Average Retail - $3,625 / High Retail - $5,438
(*) Average retail price represents a clean vehicle in good condition with a Clean Title History
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1988&m=1204&d=4288&c=7&o=40630~40631&vi=99951&z=97401&da=1
Sorry to hear about your Bird, Paint. I'd definatly try to get it fixed somehow.
I imagine it makes you feel much better to know it started this kind of childish argument, doesn't it? :rolleyes:
My view on this is, what does it mean to you.
Thats what YOUR car is worth.
Do you have a pic of the car after the accident?
sometimes the damage looks worse to the owner, than to someone else.
where are you located. mabe one of us can help you out with fixing or getting parts to you
Jerry
No pics yet, but do have a camera. Mrs Paint just left in it for work, though. Still driveable, which is the good news. I'm not sure if the frame is bent or if the clip just pushed the right fender back. I haven't taken anything apart yet, because it's Mrs. Paint's DD. Left front fender is a must, too much damage and too many creases to fix. New left headlight door and marker. New front clip. New bumper cover. New left wing mirror (this I think will be the hard part to find). The nose of the 'Bird dug into the side of the Caravan pretty good, and the right rear qp of the fan damaged the mirror. Didn't even notice that until a couple days after the wreck.
All in all, was very depressing to see it happen to my mid-life crisis fix. Was gonna doll the old girl up real nice and keep it for my project car. Before the wreck, the body was STRAIGHT. It had a few nicks/dents/dings from parking lots and an alcoholic ex that stabbed it a few times with the nozzle at the filling stations. Ex couldn't figure out where the corners were, and kept rubbing the front corners on stuff, so bumper cover was a write-off anyway. I hit a coyote at 80 mph on the interstate with it a while back. T'Bird 1 - Coyote 0.
Well, the old bat's insurance company finally managed to understand that we (me and Mrs. Paint) work too, and managed to call when we told them one of us would be available, after nearly 3 months of phone tag.
Mrs. Paint took the call, and in their finest Insurance Company form, explained to her they could only accept a written quote from a specific repairer. This sounded fishy to me, but yeah, we took the car to that repairer, and he handed us an estimate of $1661 to repair the damage.
Two more weeks go by.
We get a letter, along with a title transfer form, a ton of other paperwork, saying the car is worth only $967, so they have to total it, according to Alabama Law. "Scuse me?"
I give the jerk a call, and read him the riot act (still not knowing that it is QUITE illegal for an insurance company to steer a claimant to their preferred vendors.) I was quite rude with them on the phone and told them they were full of (I'm trying to keep this family oriented). I told them Alabama also had laws about fraud. I might be a redneck, but I'm their worst nightmare, a redneck with an education. I might have fallen off the turnip truck, but it wasn't yesterday, and I was riding up front. I do not owe my taxidermist more than my car is worth. So, they decide to send me the forms to sign the car over to them anyway, insisting I would get no more than $1017, including the proration on the tag, and 1 day loss of use, and I'd have to give them my car if they paid.
I called them again, and told them it would be a cold day in Hell before I simply signed my car over to them. This is a car that I've owned for 22+ years, and there was NO WAY they were going to steal my car. I asked if their plan was to get a salvage vehicle they could sell to a parts dealer, netting them $5000 or more, and expect to pay only $1000 for it. Instant silence on the other end. Then, the stuttering, but-but's, etc. Knew I had 'em then, but not sure how long the short hairs were.
So I wait another couple weeks, and a very meek agent calls my wife, and says they've decided the car was actually worth $3353, according to NADA. This, I already knew, because I too did some research. I found that any vehicle over 20 years old is automatically a CLASSIC vehicle in Alabama. Not VINTAGE, but CLASSIC. A vehicle does not have to be registered as classic, but DOES have to be registered as vintage. The difference being, a classic car can still be a dailly driver, but a vintage vehicle cannot. I tried KBB, and nope, no value for a 1986 T-Bird, and noticed the dates didn't go back past 1988 in Alabama. So, I hit NADA, and same deal. HOWEVER, NADA DID list it as a Classic/Collector's vehicle, minimum value being $3353. The turds then tried to offer me the repair amount estimated by THEIR preferred shop, $1661. But, now I'm really pissed, and decide to see what I can get outta the bunch of con artists.
Meanwhile, during all this, a deer ran into the side of my company car, which was towed to a private shop near where I live, instead of a dealer, for repairs. The deer did more damage to the new Impala ($7000 worth) than was done to the 'Bird when it hit the mini-van. Let me tell ya, side curtain air-bags WORK. Nearly took my head off when it came out, but did kick the deer back out of the car. Her head came through the driver's window and sprained my wrist when she hit me, but the air bag kept the situation from becoming MUCH worse.
I went by to check on the progress on the company car, and the guy that owned the place was nice enough, so I had a little chat with him 'bout the 'Bird. He asked how many estimates I sent them, and I said only the one they told us we HAD to get from a specific repairer. "That's illegal". Pardon me? "It's called 'steering' in the repair business, and insurance companies cannot steer you to a shop they get discounts from." Oh really? "Yup, bring the car to me, and let me make the next estimate, and let's watch 'em squirm." So I did, and e-mailed the estimate to them with some very pointed questions regarding business practice, and the five letter F word (Fraud) was in there several times. I pointed to the online version of the Alabama Department of Revenue Motor Vehicle Division rules, as well as the NADA site showing the value of the car. (they'd already been to NADA to price the car according to year). The ADOR DMV rules say the value of the car must be based on current data from sources "including but not limited to" NADA. If the repair cost exceeds 75% of the value of the car, then the insurance company can total it, and pay that 75% value. Since NADA is specifically mentioned, and their source for valuation is NOT, I had 'em by the short hairs with a down-hill pull. Not only that, the CarFax report they had PROVED I was the OO, and the ONLY history it had was the registrations since I owned it and one call back at a Ford dealership. For some reason, the replacement engine I had installed 4 years ago wasn't in the report, but that's OK by me.
They have now revised their offer to $2501.08. I like the 8 cents part. That was my idea. I can do some nice things for the old girl with that kinda money. Found parts at the local Pull-A-Part about two months ago, but dunno if they're still there. Old cars don't stay long. Can probably get repair parts for around $500 or so. Put another $2K with the other $2K, and get a good high quality whole body paint job done to match original color. (Midnight Blue) If you do the calculations, that amount offered now comes to about 74% of the total value of the vehicle (again, my idea). If they break the 75% mark, yeah, they can total the car according to Alabama rules. I just don't want it totaled. I'm the OO, and that adds to the value. So, basically, it hit rock bottom on depreciation, and now begins to appreciate.
Point blank, they were trying to rip me off, as well as make a buck on my bad luck. All I had to do is stand up to them.
In case you're interested, the insurance company was The Hartford. NEVER, and I mean NEVER take the first offer from an insurance company. It's a bluffing game. You WILL get a low-ball offer, and a lot of "reasons" they can't offer more. Horse pucky. Play their game, and make it start costing them by tying them up on the phone, and mailing letters. They pay penalties on unpaid claims, which is exactly why they want to settle fast, and settle low.
So, here's the list of what I need. Would appreciate a PM if anyone has some of this to spare.
1986 Base Bird
LH Front Corner Marker
LH Headlamp Door
LH Front Fender
LH Wing Mirror (Power)
Front Clip (Header panel)
Front Bumper Cover
Some of these are available aftermarket. Just have to find 'em again. I think the mirror housing is going to be the hardest to find, or perhaps the corner marker. I plan on doing most of the repair work myself to save a few bucks, but I'm no painter. I'll get another estimate from the same guy to re-stain the dash too. Still original dash with no cracks or splits. Armorall works. After he looked at it, I could see him thinking about the potential for a good lookin old Fox Body.
So, back on again with the plans to restore the old girl. Maybe a newer V6 with multiport injection is in the future. Would love a 5.0, but not with gasoline at nearly $4/gallon.
sounds like it'll all work out in the end, Fraud, scams, insurance, bunchabullsh*t its all the same thing most of the time.
Way to go, Paint
Went to the local Pull-A-Part today. Picked up some goodies, and some extras in case anyone's interested. Ennyhoo, got the header and fender replaced, and all lined up pretty good. Looks like there's no frame damage at all. I think the header just bent the brackets and shoved the other fender (RH side) out and back. Sure fared better than the minivan it ate. Loosened the bolts, and it popped right back where it should be, or pretty darn close anyway. Did some minor tweaking, and got the fenders aligned with the hood real nice, but still need to shove the left side back about 3/16" to tighten the gap at the door and line up the header with the front edge of the hood. Gonna try to handle all the major work myself, and save some serious bucks for when I take it to get it painted. Got one spot on the left rear QP where the ex tagged the wall getting out of the garage one day that looks like it's gonna need some TLC, as well as a small ding where she hit the side of the car with the fuel nozzle. She was not very nice to a very nice car.
I found some navy blue sun visors, and the original thought was to have them dyed charcoal grey like the rest of the interior. BUT, they look rather nice like they are. So, when I get the upholstery done, I'm gonna have the center panels of the seats done with Navy Blue, and the outer edges with charcoal grey.
I also got a mirror. Thought that would be my hardest find. But not only did I find one, it WORKS!!. So, just swapped out the broken one. The good news is, I still have the mirror and motor if anyone needs them. LH side. The shell was broken in the wreck, but the mirror and motor survived just fine. There is one very minor scratch (ex used an ice ser on it) in the mirror, and the motor was working just fine when I took it out. If someone can give me some idea how to get the harness out of the shell, I'll include that with the motor. Looks like there may be some capacitors or something heatshrinked into the wire harness.
The bumper covers on all the cars they had there were in pretty bad shape, so looks like an aftermarket cover is gonna get ordered. Despite hitting a coyote at 80 mph and the side of a minivan at 40 mph, it still looks better than anything I saw there. The webs underneath are broken from hitting the coyote, but can't really see that. Maybe some good plastic repair glue or something, dunno. Probably a better idea just to get a replacement cover.
I still gotta yank the headlight brackets out of it and take them to the shop and blast them and repaint. Nothing a good can of Krylon won't fix. One spring was rusted off on the replacement header's brackets, but no biggie. All my originals are just fine. I'll strip the adjusters out of it and keep them for future use.
I got two sets of headlight doors. One Argent/Chrome, the other Black/Chrome. I think I'm gonna doll up the black/chrome set and keep it. I also picked up two grilles, and my original is just fine as well. Gonna get one of those painted same color as the car, and then drop the bird badge back on it. See how it looks with color matched grille, and black headlamp doors. Any tips on re-finishing those without damaging the chrome edges? I got the chrome trim around the windows, so going all matte black is probably not gonna be a good look for the car. I may do one badge in black too.
Door panels seem to be pretty rare. Folks are ripping the doors apart for the window motors, and totally trashing the door panels. Same window motor fits a lotta vehicles (such as my '92 F-150), so the fox bird doors are getting killed for those. The doors on the one I got the header and fender from were in great shape, I thought, until I saw the holes ripped where the window motors used to be. I need some charcoal grey door panels. Actually, I just need to replace the armrest/door pocket pieces. Otherwise, my door panels are in great shape. In addition to the upholstry mods, I'm thinking about having the carpet on the bottom edge of the door panels dyed navy blue too.
A TB for the 3.8 is hard to find as well. Seems the 19# injectors are popular, so folks just decapitate the throttle bodies to get them instead of removing it and disassembling. I want to get another to build up before I take my old one off to minimize the time I have the car disabled. Anyone out there got a list of all the cars the 3.8 TBI was used in? I glanced at some other models, but most had EFI intakes. What I wouldn't give to swap out my intake and add some serious performance to this 3.8. But, gonna have to have heads too if I wanna do that, as well as ECM, harness, etc. etc.
The best part of all this, including fuel to go over there, I only spent about $150. Next trip, I'll pick up some tail lamp assemblies if anyone needs some. I saw at least 4 pristine sets. There's a couple '87 birds in there too if anyone needs something off one of those. These old birds don't stay there long, so I have to watch for new ones coming in.
Now I got one more little problem. My headliner's in pretty good shape, except for one small problem. The cloth is separating from the foam backing, and looks like a big bubble right above the driver's head. Anyone got any tricks for sticking it back do the foam wthout a big stain? I probably exacerbated the problem years ago by cleaning it with 409 upholstery cleaner. But I had to do something. The car was downright nasty from the ex abusing it. It still reeks of stale beer being spilled in the carpet and on the upholstry. Dunno if I'll ever get that smell out. I try to leave the windows open on every hot day we have. Maybe when I get the seats re-done, I can take the carpet out and scrub hell outta it again.
I put a cheap aftermarket window motor on the passenger door about two years ago, have repaired it since, and now I gotta go in there again. I think I'm gonna try to find another like the originals. Those were tough motors. The new cheapie seems to fill up with water every time it rains. I don't wanna pay dealer price, but if I gotta, well I gotta. The worst wear and tear on the door panels is from working on the window motors. I started to grab a set of power door locks for it today too. Not sure if the doors are wired for 'em though. I'll check when I do the window motor again. Didn't think to look today when I was doing the DS wing mirror. I know it's wired for door speakers and has none.
It's just a 3.8 TBI, but it's gonna look GOOD when I'm done with it. Thought I found some Cougar turbines today too. But there were 3, and the 4th was something else. Another had 3 out of 4 14 inch 10 holers on it. That SUCKS! I wanna get rid of the fake custom wheels and put something a lot nicer on the old girl. She deserves it after standing by me for 22+ years. Looks like I'm gonna have to go aftermarket.
I still need to put a new rack/pinion and replace the pump too. Pump's leaking pretty bad, and inner joint is worn pretty bad on the LH side. Bad enough to rattle like crazy. This of course has it eating tires as well. So, before new sneakers, it gets new steering. Just hope these MayPops hold up that long.
I'll try to make sure I leave a message from now on when I'm going over there. I'm planning another trip next weekend for the tail light assemblies. They're just too hard to find to let PAP sacrifice them to the car crusher gods. I saw a few mirror switches too, albeit, dunno if they work or not. Just lemme know if there's something someone needs. I'll pick it up (if it's available), add a small fee for my time, and the buyer can pay shipping. If we all do this, we can create our own supply of used parts and protect them from the s yards. Maybe we can set up some sort of db on here to list what each of us has and asking price? None of us has to have a ton of money tied up in it, yet if ALL of us do this, we could have a pretty good inventory of parts.
just about any 80's car with the fake carb on it and a 3.8 should be the same. According to jcassity, you can use a 5.0 one as well and maybe pick up some power. If you get a chance look around his diy thread. Sounds like your making great progress. Let us all know how it goes! Maybe some pics?
I was really surprised at how minor the damage really was. Guess these old birds are tougher than they look. In fact, I took the bent fender and laid it paint side down in my garage last night. I stepped on the dent wearing tennis shoes, and it popped back out to near perfect shape. I'll see what he would charge me to finish that, and just prime it while he's priming the rest of the car. Might wind up being a good fender to sell.
The header and fender I found were originally the light bronze color, but having spent a LOT of time in the sun, they're pretty much silver on top. But, even with that, the fender has VERY mild surface rust along the top inside edge where the paint was thin from the factory. No flaky stuff at all, and what rust there is, is under the hood.
I'm going to fit it all up, then drill some small pilot holes that I can use to line everything back up EXACTLY like I fit it. Then, I'll tear it back down and start cleaning/prepping for paint. I'd love to put the header and fender in the blaster at work to strip 'em down completely and just primer them until I can get it in for paint. Wouldn't look any worse than the faded bronze on an otherwise dark blue car. The blue's in bad shape too. Clear coat's peeled after 22+ years, so it was time for paint anyway.
When I take it for paint, I'll strip everything I can off it to knock down some of that labor cost. If the old tires are still on it, even better, then that will save some masking. I'll pop off the beauty rings, and the center caps, as well as all the removable bits on the front clip and the door mirrors. I'd like to pop the chrome strips on the windows too, but not sure I can do that without ruining them. If I did all that, all he'd have to mask is the chrome strip in the bumper covers. I'll let him remove and re-install the side moulding. I'm scared I'll pull the metal outta shape if I start messing with it. I can do the pin-stripe. I did the ones on it now.
When he's done with paint, I'll blast/paint the wheels/caps and repaint with argent. Just gotta watch the faux lug nuts in the caps. Thinking about in-laying the logo on the caps with black. That'll hold her til I can get some nice aftermarket wheels/tires close to original diameter.
The tail light assemblies on these cars hold up REALLY well. I just wish the ones on my truck did. These are still completely clear, but the ones on my truck are crazed and very dull looking. I've seen a lotta stuff about 'cleaning' them, though, and may try that on my truck.
Well, off to shop for bumper covers before I go to work.
Later.
Those must be original too... I must've gone through 10 or 12 of those from the VA state inspectors thinking they were real and hitting them with the impact wrench. :mad:
Sounds like she's going to be beautiful when you get done. I always wanted that color. There was one sold in your neck of the woods not long ago for $4000 and it sold quick too, saw it on autotrader and sent a message to a guy on another board to see if he'd take a look for me and before I even thought about driving up it was gone.
These guys - http://www.ritewayautosalvage.com/ - supposedly have some '86 blue interior parts (260331). I'd be more than willing to pay you for the console and bracketry if you were of a mind to ride over there and pull it. Might even have some decent exterior parts too....
you can get spray glue on the headliner, they make glue for it. Just go really slow
use very little because it will come through the headliner if you use too much. the trick is to spray it, let it start to dry just to the point of tacky then push up the liner. it is not too wet and not too dry
http://www.wlsheadliners.com/3m-hitack-76-spray-adhesive-auto-headliners-p-18.html?zenid=dc8b16ad6d09cd7869f81e5644a01cc2
congrats on your work on getting the money and keeping the car
An old friend of mine who wheels and deals auto's said he has used an iron to re-do headliners before. Just let it heat up, then take it to car and iron headliner back up. The heat reactivates glue and presto. I haven't tried it yet, no reason to, but if you do; let us know!!!
that seems like a great idea, i wonder if it works
Quote "A TB for the 3.8 is hard to find as well. Seems the 19# injectors are popular, so folks just decapitate the throttle bodies to get them instead of removing it and disassembling. I want to get another to build up before I take my old one off to minimize the time I have the car disabled. "
I'm about to remove a 3.8 from my '86. It's the CEFI engine? Interested in the throttle body from it?
-hey Paint, if u still looking for some parts, i know of a 84-85 'bird is close to me that still has most parts on it as of last week. only down fall is its over my way, but the car is in good shape. pm me if interested.....
-Stu
Well, as of this posting, I still need:
Money from the insurance company. They sent me an e-mail saying if I didn't sign their Property Damage Release, they wouldn't pay. Problem is, release said signature was acknowledgement that payment has been received. Ain't that just a wee bit backward? So, I wrote on the release that the the release was invalid until payment was received, and that the release was null and void if payment was not received in 15 days. Gonna let 'em chew on that, and if that don't work, gonna have to get a lawyer and go after the client. Maybe they'll get something from their insurance to pay for the court costs. I got enough on the insurance company now to report 'em to ADOI. If I have to get a lawyer, gonna ask for much more because of the headaches and hassle, and to make sure the lawyer gets paid well. I just want what's fair.
A bumper cover (front). (Maybe both because of a minor old wound to the rear.) These are available aftermarket, primed, read to paint. Might be worth the price to have new replacement.
Arm rest/door pocket pieces to go on door panels. (both sides) Navy Blue or Charcoal grey would do. Got some interesting ideas for the interior. May play around with photo shop some to try out some interior ideas.
shorangerbird, where is "over your way"? There are a few interior parts I wouldn't mind having. Mine still fit, but 22+ years of heat have taken their toll on some of the small mounting points. Got too many rattles from loose plastic.
T'Hawk, what you askin for the TB?
doodaa, very familiar with what impacts do to 'em, and yeah, been through a few myself with ignorant kids working at tire dealers. All it takes is a tap, and the hollow plastic sound is a dead giveaway that it AIN'T real. What's really bizarre, is when they kill TWO of them on the same cap just in case the first one lied to them about being fake. I actually watched it happen through the shop window on the last tire change. Then the idiots at the tire store tried to claim they didn't do it. I went back in the shop and got the piece outta the trash and asked if they were really SURE they didn't do it. Three outta 4 are original. Been the right rear every time, for some reason. Found another in the yard. Not in great shape, but maybe I can salvage it. Those things are rare as hen's teeth, and ain't nothin else gonna fit in that wheel. Gonna try masking/blasting/painting on it to see what happens. Just gotta be careful with the blaster to not etch it too deep.
Old Paint, just let me know what you all you want from the throttle body (can have the whole intake if you want) and you pay shipping. I'm just about 30 miles south of Chattanooga, Tn., so shipping shouldn't be much.
Sounds like a plan. Just shipping? Wouldn't hurt my feelings to build everything from the EGR plate up so I can just do a swap when I'm ready. Gonna have to order gaskets, cause all the local parts houses quit carrying the "really old stuff".
Let me know how we can do this. Don't need the intake, and really don't wanna disturb the lower on mine. It's taken a long time to stop that sucker from leaking. I had a long block put in about 4 years ago, and within a year, it was dumping coolant as fast as I could pour it in. Wound up re-doing most of the work the dealer did to put the long block in.
Still need VC gaskets (very minor seepage). Got the wrong ones last time I went to the parts house. Seems cork is the only version available for the 3.8 TBI. Didn't start doing the neoprene until the EFI and SEFI.
Good news is, got the check from the insurance company. Now, if it doesn't bounce ......
Gonna order the new bumper cover today. Don't wanna mess with trying to clean up UV/dry rot damage. Gonna put in the effort, might as well have a few clean parts to work with.
Did a little more sheet metal alignment today, and have the hood/fenders lining up very nicely now. Looks like there's no frame damage at all from the fender bender.
All the headlight doors I got at Pull-A-Part were pretty badly oxidized and faded, so I got out some sandpaper and masking tape, and bought a can of satin finish black for them. WOW, they look good. I got the stuff made for plastic, so maybe it will stay on there a little longer. Gonna try it on the broken mirror shell I have and see if black is what I want. I think it'll look good, though.
Need new high beam lamps now. The mirroring has come off the back and one gets a little condensate in it. The black headlight doors really make the near-sighted high beams look bad.
Ordered the NEW bumper cover today too. Stinkin shipping was a full third of the total cost. But, this thing's gonna be a pet from now on, and I can't seem to find a decent cover in the yards. Mrs. Paint's on board with it, which is the best part of the whole restoration project. She wants us to have a show car of some sort. Won't matter if it's only a V6 if the body/interior make up for the lack of ponies.
I would post some pics, but it's just plain UGLY with that sun-faded bronze colored fender that's faded to silver on top on a dark blue car. On top of that, or below it actually, no bumper cover. Eeeewwww! I just don't have the heart to embarrass the poor thing that way.
Headed for the Pull-A-Part again tomorrow. They added a '85 Bird today, so should be some goodies on it. First time I went out there for a look, they only had 3 Fox bodies on the whole lot. Now, they've got 8 Fox Body BIRDS. Didn't even look for Cats. I'll look at some of the others they have too, and if I see something that looks too good to let it go to a crusher, I'll grab it. I'll post some photos in an album on Photo Bucket when I get back, and maybe set up a PayPal account so I can sell off some stuff. I'll sell it for what I pay plus a little for my time, and shipping.
I want a full lenth console. Let me know if you see one out there with a good lid
I'll give it a look. I know there were some, but dunno how good they were. Some were rather beat up, though, and the center plate missing along with the mirror switch, etc. I'll take the camera, and if I see something, I'll take some photos. Hopefully they won't get butchered before I can go back after it if I find something you want. Some folks are not very nice to the parts they don't need. I'm just hoping the '85 they have has a 3.8 TBI with an intact throttle body.
Old Paint, I'm still waiting for your call. Throttle body still on car, complete.
hey if ya need anything i have a 84 cougar full of parts. so let me know. i have parts off of a 86 elan in there as well.
Found one today, less than $27, complete with IAC, TPS, spacer plate, injectors. Thanks for the offer, though.
I found a couple, but here's some photos of the best looking one I found. Needs some work, for sure. I didn't get it, but they seem to have a few Fox bodies rolling through there now. I keep drooling every time I look under the hood and see the 5.0 sitting there begging me to take it home and give it some TLC.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6542.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6543.jpg)
Someone asked me to see if I could find some inner turnies for an '87. Got 'em. Here's the pic.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6557.jpg)
They're in pretty good shape, but have a little white paint around the edges where someone rattlecanned the nose. A little washing and polishing, they're good to go.
Now for the photo of the whole load I got today. I done good on price too. Less than $150 for all this ....
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6545.jpg)
Yes, that IS two EEC-IV's sitting there. One definitely came off a 3.8, but the other, I'm not quite sure (no engine in car). Both say CFI-SD2, there must be some difference. Here's the numbers:
E63F-12A650-A1A
E53F-12A650-AL1A
Someone wanna clue me in on the difference? The E63F came off the 3.8, I know for certain (I pulled it).
Like I planned, got the TB, EGR, so now I'm ready to clean 'em up and get ready to swap the top of my 3.6. The TB's got EVERYTHING on it.
Picked up the shroud because the top right corner's broken off mine. Think the dealer did that when putting the long-block in for me.
The two lamps are the high beams mine needs too. It's a bit near-sighted with the originals still there.
Gonna see what I can do about setting the cluster for the ACTUAL mileage on my old duck (about 98000). While I'm at it, gonna do the mod to get rid of that STUPID 85MPH clamp. I know the car is a lot faster than that. The lens needs a good cleaning, and I hope I can get it polished out enough to be clear again. I actually managed to get it off without breaking the PRNDL cable clamp. Didn't look like it's EVER been out, so new lamps are in order.
And finally, I hate to do it to the old girl, but here's where I am with the repairs. Still hunting a new bumper cover. All of them at PAP seem to be ripped at the bottom (probably because they handle cars with a giant forklift) Found a company in FL that still has some. Big problem there is they don't ship other than to their own stores, and don't take credit cards.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6559.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6562.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6560.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6561.jpg)
Do they have a store in the Panhandle? If there's one in Panama City I could pick it up and ship it to you.... or I'll be headed north through ATL the Monday after Labor day if you want to wait that long. Going to be carrying a woman and her 2 weeks worth of luggage though so the Mark probably won't have enough room for car parts other than the ones that belong on it. ;)
-just looking them up at a glance, model year difference was all i saw. both were later replaced by the same number.....oh and BTW, the yard i was talking about that has a 84-5 'bird is in Anniston....
I think I may have found a local source for an aftermarket cover. The guy that's repairing my company car (Impala that a big doe decided to try to mate with) gave me a lead on the cover. Haven't called 'em yet, but will do exactly that tomorrow. If they can order it, great, I won't have to take a long road trip. Fuel would be more expensive than shipping now anyway.
Got a TBI rebuild kit today. Gonna take the $25 TB I got at Pull-A-Part and clean it up real good tomorrow, and do the injectors overnight in Seafoam. Got a parts washer at work, and a ceramic pellet polisher, so should be able to make this thing look REAL good. Just gotta watch getting the stupid pellets in places they shouldn't be. PITA when they go in a #10 screw hole. I've got two spacers, one of which I think was a thicker spacer for the 5.0 in an E-series van. Both are solid plastic. The one that came with the kit is some sort of fiber, and isn't as thick as the thinner spacer. Anyone got a clue what happens if I put a thicker spacer under the TBI? (Other than the obvious of raising my TB about .5 inch.) Any performance gain or loss there? It's got a larger bore than the one that's on the TB that I'm cleaning up. Just wondering if it's going to cause more turbulence and increase hesitation or if it'll help with acceleration a little.
With the number of Taurus' in that yard, methinks an e-fan conversion is in the future too. Just wanna redo the TBI first and make sure I've got clean injectors to see if it helps with warm engine hesitation. JCassity insists it's the filter screens in the injectors. Guess this TB replacment will tell the tale. I'll make sure to do some before/after pics of the TB while I'm working on it. Looks pretty simple considering I've been neck deep in a Motorcraft 2150 before, as well as a Holley-Weber progressive 2bbl.
The TB I picked up at the Pull-A-Part is complete with ICM, TPS, EGR, EVP, injectors, FPR, everything. Just hope the TPS is good to go. If not, I still have the one I pulled off when I tried that as a hesitation fix. I saw the price for a reman TBI today. Ouch! $680. I just need to come up with a way to test the FPR before I put it on the car. The one on my truck is EASY. Not so easy on the TBI, though.
Finding the gasket set for the TBI body was an adventure in itself. But, a trusty little no-name shop I've used before had it in the back room. Go figger, none of the big chain stores has it, and neither does a dealer. Still need the EGR/manifold gasket, though. Those things are rare as hen's teeth.
looks good!!
just noticed it says 70 bettle, id like to see some pics of that beast!!
These are pretty low rez, but it'll give ya some idea. It ain't purty, but it's got one hell of an attitude.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/bug031.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/bug021.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/bug011.jpg)
thats freaking awesome!!!! I love the old baja buggys!
Believe it or not, those headers used to be ceramic coated. Last time I do that on that VW. They burned up and rusted just as fast as uncoated ones. Probably has a lot to do with them glowing cherry red then getting very wet from tire spray.
I had to run the K&N filters oiled because the carbs were sucking in too much water from road spray as well. I've seen a pretty neat rig made from a Gen 8 F-150 air box mounted above the rear window, and ducts run down to the carbs. That'll keep her dry.
It's down for the count right now. One of those episodes with too much water in the carb, and I stripped a head stud in the case because of too much compression (water flashed). So, gotta tear it down and put helicoils in the case, which SUCKS!. Have to buy an entire rebuild gasket set because the 4 little gaskets that go between the cylinders and the block don't come separately. I should know better than to drive it in the rain by now. That much rubber on the ground on a car that barely weighs 1100 pounds, and water is NOT your friend. It's a very strange feeling to be going down the interstate in a rain storm, and see your speedo drop to zero from 70. You know to hang on tight to the steering wheel then, because 0 mph means the left front is no longer turning. It is NOT nice when that tire finds enough traction to start turning again.
Ok, got some then and nows for yas.
Throttle Body
Then:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6549.jpg)
Now:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/BirdParts018.jpg)
EGR Spacer Plate
Then:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6553.jpg)
Now:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/BirdParts013.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/BirdParts011.jpg)
The two together:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/BirdParts001.jpg)
The wing mirrors
Then:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/100_6556.jpg)
Now:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/Old_Paint/Bird%20Parts/BirdParts002.jpg)
I haven't had time to do much, but have gotten this far. Amazing what having access to a sandblaster and bead polisher will do for parts. I completely disassembled the TBI because the butterflies were rusted. I have a small micro blaster in the shop, which cleaned those up quite nicely.
I also learned something about wing mirrors. The mirrors for an '84 will plug right in and bolt right on an '86, but, they are NOT the same. They use a totally different mechanism inside the housing. The the mirror is mounted to on the '86 mirror will snap off without removing the glass from the . This is NOT the case for the 84's. I found out the hard way by breaking one. The glass has to be removed (glued on with silicone) from the and a screw removed to expose the mechanism. Looks like I'll be grabbin some more on my next trip. I definitely like the 86's better for maintenance/repair.
Since the housings are plastic, I sanded the rock chips out of them and sprayed them with some Krylon satin black for plastic. They look good, and supposedly this stuff is supposed to be weather resistant. I think I got the passenger side fixed with some super glue, but if not, by the time the mirror falls out, I'll have my original painted up too.
Next up, the wheels centers. I'm debating on coloring the wheels something other than silver (argent). I've got the fake deluxe wheels (blech!), but kind of trying to stay with OE as much as possible on parts, because I may register the car as a vintage car. I've gotta do something with the wheels though, and never liked the silver on them anyway. Any suggestions?
Dunno if I should start a new thread or retitle this one. Right now, I'm planning on putting all the progress photos in here, though. It's a project car now, officially, because I got Mrs Paint an '05 Chevy Venture. Sorry for the language, but needed the seat belts. Added 3 more (my grandchildren) to the fold. Thought I was gonna have to get a used school bus. The 18 yo step daughter now has a 1999 Toyota Camry. Again, sorry for the language, but if I was gonna get anything done to the 'Bird, I had to get them a way to go. Price was everything. My driveway looks like a used car lot.