The car has had a leak thats rust proofed the entire underbody. I knew it was coming from somewhere near the pump and today I poked the hose coming out the driver side of the pump. The hard line rotates in the fitting. I am guessing it shouldn't. Before I order another one and find out its a leaking at the reservoir..... Should it rotate in the fitting?
Yes,it rototes in there,but,it's highly likely the seals are bad.The hoses are worth replacing,and I's also go ahead and replace the return hose as well.All that holds it on is two small worm clamps.Buy the high pressure line and the return line and do them both.It'll probably take about half an hour.The fitting for the pressure line on the steering rack takes a little time to remove and replace,but worth it in the end.
Can I just replace the O rings? Theres really nothing wrong with the hose itself.
-dZ
No, just get the line, its probably less than $20.
X2.Get the lines,do it right the first time and be done with it.Take the car to the carwash and clean it all up first and the rack included.You'll be glad you did.
My PS always leaked at the shaft seal behind the pulley.
Even a replacement pump leaked soon after install.
I've never had a pump leak there.I also always use Lucas steering fluid.Awesome stuff.Costs more,but worth it.
x3
this is more common than the hoses. the fitting at the rack will take more than just a little time. You best have a line wrench as well.
those lines up at the rack/pinion are a rats nest cobe webb imho.
I bought the line but itll have to wait. Busy for the next couple weeks. On a plus note, I got the t5 in and the h-pipe installed. Just for kicks, I ran it up and down the block to piss off the neighbors.
My 5 speed is coming soon to a Tbird near me.
I have a brand new t-5 Separator plate. Its from mustangs unlimited. I paid 30+9$ shipping (and tried to cancel when i found one local but it was too late). If you want it we can work out a price.
I saw some new ones for $25.00 on Ebay.Aftermarket ones.I don't remember who makes them.PM me with what you're asking for it.I'll warn you now,after buying the Mach 1 spoiler and the two replacement wheels for the Sport,my budget is not as great as I wish it was.LOL.
This is the one I bought.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-289-302-T-5-CONVERSION-BELLHOUSING-SPACER-PLATE-SB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ6763QQihZ002QQitemZ120226536922
You have helped me out before on here so 24$+shipping?
Its still in the box but i can take some pictures if you want. I bought this one because its embossed like the stock ones. Like I said, I found one local and put it in before this one showed up.
-Dan
So i managed to stop the drip..drip..drip... from the High pressure side to the pump.
I filled it up and it worked great. Now, however, I notice that It seems to be leaking out of both ends of the rack when sitting!! :punchballs:
I noticed the return hardline that enters the rack is very loose. I checked the manual and it doesn't seem to have any good info on how it comes apart. I haven't thrown in the towel on the rack yet and I just want to cover all the bases before I do.
Anyone know how the short hardline for the return side is removed from the rack?
Also, I just read that I should put ATF in the PS Pump. Is that true (maybe thats why its suddenly leaking)?
_dz
Just remove it with a std. wrench. If it isn't leaking, you don't need to deal with it.
You'll need to put on a new teflon washer if you remove it. Dorman part #82540. Dental pics and immersing the washer in boiling water will help get it on.
Use Type-F, not Mercon/Dexron.
I tapped the return line back down. Refilled it with type-F and most of a bottle of Lucas stop leak. Not a single drip now. Not sure what fixed it exactly but the pump is nice and quiet now.
i got a bunch of info on the rack/pinion in my diy. you just gotta read.
Bet you did not know the OEM inner tie rods are adjustable,,:D
I told ya it was a beyoch to get at the main at the rack. Patience and a line wrench will work wonders.
step back and decide what is in your way that your wrench is going to conflict with. once that is done, start getting things out of your way.
I think i removed my rack bolts first then the bushings. this gave the rack some play to lower it a little so i could get up in there with a line wrench.
Have you had your power steering fluid tested for contamination? pretty cheap test and good shops will do it if you bring in a sample.
if your leaking on both ends, you gotta switch up to something thicker than plain jane power steering fluid. Im glad i see more people here have done this, i got heat about it a few years ago.
My brake system on the white coug was also ATF for many years before the wife took it in for something or another and they redid it. Im loving my corroded zerk fittings now.
Ive never heard of ATF in the brake system. I have, however, done my fair share of custom line bending.
As for the rack. It doesn't leak anymore. The Lucas oil was as thick as syrup but since its a fair weather driver anyway I'm not concerned about it gelling up in the cold (Cold in San Antonio...pfft).
I could only get at the high pressure line by moving the low pressure return hard line out of the way. When I did this, it "popped up" a little and I think that it may have been what was leaking.
I tapped it down with a dowel and a mallet and it re-seated. Now everything seems to be leak free. The car is getting torn apart this week for paint so it really only needs to not leak for the next few weeks. Check out my junkyard 5-spokes! :hick:
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/3005000-3005999/3005732_19_full.jpg)