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Technical => Electrical Tech => Topic started by: jcassity on February 28, 2005, 08:24:25 PM

Title: clearing codes (solved)
Post by: jcassity on February 28, 2005, 08:24:25 PM
1990 ford bronco 351w full size EECIV system

how to clear codes after they have been pulled is my question.

I fixed a problem and followed the instructions by removing the jumper wire in order to interupt the test and clear the eec.

i checked on my codes today and they still remain.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: nirvanagod on February 28, 2005, 08:47:59 PM
Unhooking the battery won't do it?
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on February 28, 2005, 09:44:01 PM
thats what is said not to do.  Ive heard of that before many times but i dont put stock in it.  Seen it many times when a check engine light is on,, pull the bat signal for a good bit of time.  Later on down the road like within the same day, check engine light comes back on.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: MasterBlaster on March 01, 2005, 08:14:44 AM
Quote
how to clear codes after they have been pulled
Key on, jumper in, beep-beep, count-count, end of test.
Key off, jumper out, wait 10 seconds.
Key on, jumper in, beep-bee... *yank* out comes the jumper.
Codes should be gone. Turn off key, wait 10 seconds.
To check, key on, jumper in, should only get code 11 "System okay".
Quote
I fixed a problem.......i checked on my codes today and they still remain.
Did you run the car after clearing the codes? If so, then the problem wasn't fixed, and the code was set again.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 01, 2005, 11:17:42 AM
oopps
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 01, 2005, 11:20:29 AM
Quote from: MasterBlaster

Key on, jumper in, beep-bee... *yank* out comes the jumper.

in that exact order,,,key on then jumper in then yank?


Quote from: MasterBlaster
Did you run the car after clearing the codes? If so, then the problem wasn't fixed, and the code was set again.

yes,, i figured that they wont go away till the codes are cleared.

no, i have not performed a koer test as of yet.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: MasterBlaster on March 01, 2005, 07:46:37 PM
Quote
in that exact order,,,key on then jumper in then yank?
Yep, that what my instruction manual for my reader says:
1- Turn off ignition
2 - Set code reader to HOLD (same as no jumper) and connect to car
3 - Turn on ignition, do NOT start car
4 - Set code reader to TEST (same as jumper in)
5 - The LED light will start blinking
6 - Set code reader to HOLD (jumper out) while LED is blinking
7 - "Continuous Memory" codes are erased
8 - Turn off ignition and remove code reader
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 01, 2005, 10:03:28 PM
:screwy:
ooooohhhhh ,, ok,,
if thats the case,, then we're all gonna have to notify therangerstation.com web guru of a wording error. 

thanks man,, ill try it your way tomorrow morning.

"""""Clearing Codes
These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles.  To clear the codes for purposes of  testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure.  When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner.  Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory.  Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.""""""



i wonder if what is meant here is to remove the jumper during each two or three diget code to erase each code individually?
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: MasterBlaster on March 02, 2005, 07:13:06 AM
Quote
a wording error.
Why? Looks fine to me...

...codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test...disconnecting the jumper

...Key on, jumper in, beep-bee... *yank*

Of course, if you don't have a beeper, substitute blink-bli... *yank*

...Set code reader to HOLD (jumper out) while LED is blinking
(I added "(jumper out)" to the above line. Not in the book)

Quote
erase each code individually?
Nope, they all get wiped together.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 02, 2005, 09:59:49 AM
Quote from: MasterBlaster
Why? Looks fine to me...


actually, it says pulling the jumper during any code transmission will erase the memory.,,

your saying to pull the jumper out during code transmission,,leave the key on,, reinstall the jumper,, when codes start dumping again  pull the jumper.

what changes in your step vs the steps in the write up is the installation of the jumper with the key on. 

In therangerstation steps, you install the jumper and the test light, turn key forward, pull codes.  to erase the codes you re-run the test step by step and simply pull the jumper out.

what you say is that i follow the proceedure but remove the jumper then reinstall it with the key on, then pull the jumper out during any code.

thats an extra step.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: MasterBlaster on March 02, 2005, 10:30:19 AM
Quote
remove the jumper then reinstall it with the key on
Where? I must be blind.
Quote
thats an extra step.
Sorry, you lost me.

Could you quote the part with the extra step? Maybe I just can't see it.

Unless you mean my first reply, which was basically doing the procedure 3 times...

1st - Run the codes and write them down, unless you already did.
2nd - Run the codes and interrupt to clear them.
3rd - Run the codes to verify they were cleared.

Each time the codes are run, the key should be off for 10 seconds beforehand to let the computer reset, and the jumper only inserted to start the test sequence.

I never trust anything to be done just because I tell it to.
I always go back and make sure it was done.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 02, 2005, 10:57:25 AM
I feel like a pest,,why? :sorry:
if i follow the below instructions, copy/paste, my codes do not clear.

however, you mention this .......
[[[[[[[...codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test...disconnecting the jumper

...Key on, jumper in, beep-bee... *yank*****}}}}}}}}


the extra step is where you reinstall the jumper with the key on.  that step is not mentioned below.
again, sorry to b a pita. :sorry:

-----------------------------------
3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).

4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
  NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.
 
5. Read hard faults.
 
6. Separator Pulse.
 
7. Read memory codes.
 
8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
  Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.


Clearing Codes
These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles.  To clear the codes for purposes of  testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure.  When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner.  Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory.  Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: softtouch on March 02, 2005, 04:23:24 PM
It does't matter whether you put the jumper in before or after the key is on.
Put the jumper on first: The tests start when you turn the key on.
Turn key on first: The test starts when you put the jumper in.

If you are using the check engine light (or you have a meter in the dash like I do) you put the jumper in first.

If you are working under the hood you do the key first.

When you pull the jumper to clear the codes, leave it out and turn the key off to finish-up the operation.

When you turn the key off, wait until the EEC primary power relay
drops before you turn it on again. About five to ten seconds. You can hear it if you listen close. It's in the dash to the right of center.

The caution about not disconnecting the battery is because there are other things stored in the KAM (Keep alive memory) besides the error codes.
There are tables with operating parameters stored in them that the computer will have to "relearn". It may run rough until the learning process is complete.
Relearning the parameters may be a good idea after you get the bugs cleared up.

Of course we never disconnect the battery with the key on.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 02, 2005, 05:28:58 PM
im going to do this in a moment,, wifes been gone most all day.
this is easy,,i know im reading this correctly but if i simply pull the jumper while codes are dumping,, then wait ,,, then check again,,the codes still remain.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 02, 2005, 08:02:50 PM
ok softtouch and masterblaster,,
ive have no ability to remove the codes.  Trust me ,, i've tried every combination of when that stinking jumper goes in and comes out with no avail.

i even did some KOER tests to interupt it that way,,no go.

maybe i need to see if there is something special about the bronco.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: softtouch on March 02, 2005, 10:04:52 PM
You are right. It's time to regroup. In '84 the cars with 5.8L engines did not use the EEC-IV system. They use a MCU and a feed back carb. You don't say what year the Bronco is and what the fuel delivery system is.
Besides it is considered a truck.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 02, 2005, 10:22:53 PM
1990 ford bronco 5.8 liter,, sorry bout that,, im such a dummy.

but,,
it has the EECIV system with the exact self test connections as on our cars.
Same TFI moudule and sprout connector ect ect. 

i dont see why it differes.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: softtouch on March 03, 2005, 06:27:38 PM
We are not confusing "On demand" codes with "Continuous memory"
 codes are we?
The on demand codes are a result of the "Quick Test" detecting and reporting these codes. They are not from memory and can not be reset.

When the KOEO runs the on demand codes are reported first. After the last on demand code there is a six to nine second pause then a single seperator pulse followed by another six to nine second pause. Then the continuous memory codes are read out.

Only the continuous memory codes can be reset.
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 03, 2005, 10:12:05 PM
:bowdown:
I knew something would finally click.

ill have to report back to you on that one.

here is what i do know
koeo
my first string of codes dump out,,,,,,,,
then they repeat themselves once more
(im calling these my hard faults)

then one single separater pulse

then my other codes dump
then they repeat themselves once again
(im calling these my memory codes)

yesterday i waited for the "on demand" codes to finish up
then...
i was able to still see the "continuous memory codes" still present.

but.
you got me curious now and second guessing myself.
ill report back and see what i come up with on the continuous memory codes.

thanks for lending me a hand. :D
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: MasterBlaster on March 04, 2005, 07:46:09 AM
Quote
yesterday i waited for the "on demand" codes to finish up
then...
i was able to still see the "continuous memory codes" still present.
That's the weird part. The second group should be erased with the jumper pull, and shouldn't show up until the truck has been run again. I assume it has an electic fuel pump like ours... when you pull the jumper during the codes, does the pump run for a second while the computer (supposedly) resets and erases itself?

On the other hand, could those possible voltage spikes (that you said screwed with the voltmeter and tach) have zapped the computer, and now it can't be erased?
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 04, 2005, 09:05:00 AM
Quote from: MasterBlaster
That's the weird part. The second group should be erased with the jumper pull, and shouldn't show up until the truck has been run again. I assume it has an electic fuel pump like ours... when you pull the jumper during the codes, does the pump run for a second while the computer (supposedly) resets and erases itself?

On the other hand, could those possible voltage spikes (that you said screwed with the voltmeter and tach) have zapped the computer, and now it can't be erased?


electric pump , yes
when i pull the jumper, yes the fuel pump runs then stops.

i dont think there was a spike.  When it was acting up, the tac would slowly drop below 500 and the alt would also decrease proportionaly. Suddenly the engine would recover and alt meter would bump back up to about 15 im thinking then the cycle would repeat till it either stalled or recovered.  This was all happening when the clutch was applied.  Now that ive fixed that problem, im still pluggig away on clearing the codes.  I'm gonna pull the KOER codes when the wife gets back (whenever that might be today)
Title: Re: clearing codes
Post by: jcassity on March 04, 2005, 07:25:36 PM
******SOLVED----finally got em to clear.
I was only able to clear memory codes doing the KOER test.  I was not able to clear memory codes with the KOEO.


ok,
i pulled the KOER codes and let it go through all the motions and recorded 6 codes total.

I ran the cycle again and interupted the eec by pulling the jumper.
Of the 6 codes, only three remained.  I guess i did something right.

so,, now i have three codes in the system
but they were preceeded by a
code 4
code 1
ill assume one is the separater and the other is the goose signal. I dont think i goosed it enough though.

here is what i have now so ill have to troubleshoot.

26 Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Vane Air Flow (VAF) out of range - MAF VAF
 Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions 


maybe cause its not an aod anymore,, or maybe i have a MAF issue,,any help on this.

77  System did not receive "goose" test - see TESTS 
maybe i did not goose it correctly,, how and when to goose is my question to anyone.

65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control
 (R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received - Transmissions

My tranny use to be an E4OD,, now its a 5speed.  Not sure what to make of this cause there is a button on the dash called Overdrive.  I think OD was depressed when it should not have been. Im pretty sure that when the OD light is on,, that means its NOT in overdrive.  Kind of bass akwards if you ask me.

all in all,, looks like i may or may not have issues.

any thoughts.,,anyone?
Title: Re: clearing codes (solved)
Post by: TurboCoupe50 on March 04, 2005, 08:02:59 PM
The code 4 in the KOER test is half the # of cylinders 2=4cyl. 3=6cyl, 4=8cyl(guess it a good thing Ford never had a 3 or 5 cyl engine LOL). the 1 is a seperator code, tells you fault codes will follow...

Do the "goose test" just after you get the code 4 and before the 1.

Other than the 77, the rest of the codes are most likely because you still using the auto EEC...
Title: Re: clearing codes (solved)
Post by: jcassity on March 05, 2005, 12:21:54 AM
Quote from: TurboCoupe50
guess it a good thing Ford never had a 3 or 5 cyl engine QUOTE]

 :giggle:  :rollin:

good close for the topic tom.
Title: Re: clearing codes (solved)
Post by: jcassity on March 16, 2005, 12:08:06 PM
1990 ford bronco 351w eecIV
pulled codes with a jumper and a buzzer instead of a light.

ok,,
As i said,, i would give the bronco some time to cycle through and log in the codes it has in memory.

here is what is in the system now.
21  Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT 
this looks like it could be an actual problem
I need to find out the resistance range of this part and check

26 Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Vane Air Flow (VAF) out of range - MAF VAF
 Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions 

this appears to say a couple different things.
MAF problem
or
it could be not detecting whatever in the AOD because we swapped it to a 5 speed.

?how can i check the MAF sensor.  Someone here once posted a procedure but i lost it.


65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control
 (R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received - Transmissions
 1984 3.8L ONLY - O, M Battery voltage high (check for electrical system overcharging) 

this could be an actual code with the o2
or
not a real code cause there is no E4OD tanny anymore.  I did not push in the overdrive button on the dash so maybe thats what it sees
?How much voltage was involved with the O2 sensor cause i think i remember something like .3 to .5mvdc was good and if its near .9 its bad.,,,or was that AC?