I'm still having issues with my transmission after replacing the seals, filter, gasket, and giving the thing new fluid. Randomly at lower speeds (doesn't matter if its in first, second, or I think even third) when accelerating lightly to "medium", the tranny will pop out of gear and won't go in until either I give it a few seconds or I rev it higher. The tranny was perfectly fine before this and both the shifter and tv cables were readjusted to make sure they were correct (according to the Haynes book).
Fluid's right where its supposed to be. It doesn't go away hot or cold. Seems to happen on all surfaces/hills and whether or not I'm turning. I find it hard to believe the tranny's about to die as it still works fine 80% of the time when accelerating around town, but I wouldn't rule anything out at this point. What am I looking at that would be the culprit?
If it was running fine before,why did you re-adjust the TV cable.It's probably not where it needs to be.
I would put the tv valve back...
Adjusting the TV cable without a pressure gauge is dangerous.
Ballpark is with the intake valve closed, there should be no slack in the cable but not pulling on it either.
I had mine adjusted out too far once and it would cause FIRM shifts and OD would stick.
Read through here and see if any of their pointers help.
http://www.becontrols.com/ourfaqs/aodtroubleshoot_1.htm
1. Did you check your separator plates for flatness?
2. New gaskets I hope.
3. Did you use a torque wrench? Apparently AOD Valve bodies are sensitive to torque.
We pulled the tranny and motor, did the new gasket, seals, filter, oring, and fluid and bolted it back together on the new motor - without touching anything it was already acting funky.
As far as everything on it other than the cables, this was all done over new years week so I don't even remember at this point how it was all put back together (specifics wise). Should I just have a tranny shop adjust the thing and see if it fixes the issue? I don't want to drive it with the way its acting - it probably won't last too long this way.
i have similar problems now with my 20th(so called new transmission with papers to boot!!!!)
when im in between gears, it wants to slip till i let off the gas.
I need to learn how to adjust the tv cable as well so im gonna do a search and break open the manual.
does anyone have the proper steps memorized? maybe it will help the both of us out.
Okay, it happens when going into Overdrive also, so it isn't gear specific
Sounds like a fluid pressure problem to me. The pump is either worn out or it can't suck fluid from the pan. Make sure your filter is clean and there should be a gasket b/t the filter and pump. If there is no gasket or the bolts are loose, the pump will suck air.
Sounds to me it's on it's way out.you should check it with a gauge though!,You need to know whats up when your changing the cable!If not, what you think is "great" might actually be doin damage.
I'll do what I can but obviously, I don't know enough about transmissions. I just found it weird that it worked fine before the new motor though and started the second it pulled out of the driveway. First it was needing more fluid and acted like it, but the problem never went away after finally getting all 9+ quarts in there. It seemed to improve but after actually getting it on the road, it wasn't any better.
I'll look into it more but from what I can find, this problem isn't anything aod specific, just trannys in general. It DOES seem like lack of fluid so we'll see. If worst case, the car will get a Baumannator and 4r70w along with its mass air system for the motor. Getting better response from both the motor and tranny sure looks like a big two thumbs up.
I had a similar issue with my old mustang, and it turned out to be the previous owner left the little gasket between the tranny filter and valve body off. The fluid would slosh away to the rear of the pan, and it would kick out of gear.
The first step of diagnosis on an AOD is setting the TV pressure with a gague. Untill you do that, you are just guessing. If you have a late model EFI engine with a cable going from trans to TB, its as easy as looking for about 5PSI at idle, then pull the cable about 10mm without revving the engine, and you want about 30 PSI if I am remembering correctly. You probably have the "block type" adjuster, check these pics for reference. http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm
That is true, and with the lovely little plastic grommet that likes to break with age. Anyways, I think this thread has already been a great help with diagnostic information. Yes, I will start with the tv cable and go from there - likely won't be until this weekend.
The above link is exactly how I adjusted the thing before (not this last time as I had no internet access, but similar) and it never mention anything about pressures so I didn't think anything of it.
Like Tbird232ci and I said....make sure the pump isn't sucking air. Make sure there is a gasket b/t the filter and valve body. Make sure the bolts are tight.
Of course. Give me a few days to find time to check it.
BS, not if you know what you're doing...
Been racing mine since '00, yet to put a gage on it...
Adj it as short as possible(where mine stays), IF shifts are too late/hard lengthen it a bit...
Common sense ought to tell you if its slipping/early shifting, which a too long adjustment will cause...
Agreed. I've
NEVER used one either. I've had the car 10 years...the Tranny had 98 miles on it when I bought it.
I'll add to Tom's post too much pressure is better than not enough.
x3
and for you guys with TV RODs
this is what you adjust to get a harder shift................ This is located on the driver side rear of the CFI.
SO,, in a nutshell,,,,,,,,,,,,,
you floor the gas pedal and stuff a brick over it
lift the clip on the tv cable
pull all the slack forward or out
push the clip back down
road test
redo if required
?????
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11690&highlight=TV+cable
It has pictures too! :hick:
Thats you! if they don't know they will mess it up.
A gauge is the way to go.I use it to see my own ajustments
when I do my own cable.Then to, you got to now how to use a gauge also.
:flip: :flip: I was using gauges when you were in grade school... No not on AOD's...
I ment for others, not you!,We do have beginner's here that want to learn.
I also doubt your old enough to be my grandad,
I love conflict!!.
I will be nice now.
I had one burn out because it was improperly adjusted. Ive seen a few chevys also. I guess you might not need a gauge, but it helps. I guess i am just paranoid now.
Hardly... But what grade were you in 1966??? I was a junior in HS...
Also bought my first car, a '57 Ford with aftermarket A/C and by that time owned a vacuum and compression gage... Then a buddy and I took a quickie auto AC class(he was working at a auto shop that did AC work, and I worked at a TV shop) so we could learn how to repair the unit on that old '57... So yes I'm very familiar with gages, plus meters and other test equipment used in electronics troubleshooting,..
But you might be my long lost dad!,please come claim me!.
Just kiddin!,I don't want to give bad advice to some here.
A gauge is vaulable toward what an AOD will or won't do.
Like said before I do ajustments by feel,because I do know how.
I'm wanting to get the car back into full duty again and wondering before I do that whether I did my non-gauge adjustment properly. At WOT, I pulled the cable out as far as it would go and popped the black clevis into the grommet. I marked this spot. Pulling it out, I made a mark 5/16" up from black rail. Then marking halfway in between these two, I locked the block into place so it met this halfway point.
I've only driven it around the block and so far it seems much better, but I don't want to beat on it taking it up to freeway speeds without knowing this is done right (as good as it can get without a gauge). The adjustment that was on it was 3/8" low compared to the new marking - basically it was just beyond the "minimum" mark that the one adjustment page posted earlier showed. If I'm okay to test drive it and see how it goes, if it is still acting bad, I'm going to take it in for the $90 diagnosis and probably have it fixed if its as easy as pulling the pan and adjusting whatever (filter, tv, ...). I have no where decent to work in right now and the fluid thing is a pain without a drain hole.
Is the car still dropping out of gear occasionally? Ford's valvebodies are known for warping...and often times you'll get sold a complete rebuild at a tranny shop...I had that problem on my old '88 Bird when I first got it on the road...it was the valvebody...same thing on my buddy's old '72 Maverick Grabber...but that was a C4...he thought the tranny was dead...I removed the valvebody and re-installed ( re-using the stock '72 valvebody gasket -hey we were in "no-mans" land South Dakota). After that the trans acted as good as the day it came off the assembly line...
If it still drops out of gear occasionally, I would start looking into valvebody issues...I'm also pressed for time and didn't read the whole thread, so that problem may already have been resolved.
Either way, GOOD LUCK!
-Don
Pressures were tested today, as was the filter, and they are perfect. Transmission still wants to rev when in gear, not when switching gears (happens when the shifter is in 1st too). They say its due only to the internal wear and the new fluid brought the problem out. If its a good chance that it is only valve related, I'll try it out, but I'm going to start looking for a 5.0 bolt-on 4r70w and pick up a control system/wiring harness.
....and if you buy a new trans over a simple improperly torqued valve body, you got had my friend. Valve bodies have always had to be properly torqued, otherwise, you get cross bleed which can be pretty ugly, but I have never had one that could not be fixed by a simple retorque of the valve body, or worst case, flattening the surface of the VB or the case.
I'm picking up a recently rebuilt aod from someone tomorrow so it can just be bolted in and go. Its cheap so I figure why not, instead of playing all these games. All these problems at once is driving me insane.
well, just so you know, I cured my slipping problem. First i followed the instructions and had little or no change.
I decided to just try out different locations of where the plastic clip would lock in.
first attempt was ,,oh shiznit,, that cant be right.
Second attempt,, not a single slip to this point and i am satisfied with the results.
And where is the clip now just out of curiosity?
see pic,,
What is yours set at based on the perspective i have below?
The pic is not my car, stole the pic. Does my setting sound correct to you and others?
A little tighter than that. The crimp in that pic SHOULD be resting on the plastic...
i just thought i'd add my 2 cents in.... about 1500 miles ago i put in a "new" aod that came out from behind a mustang 5.0l. it was sold with the motor and the guy who sold it to me used the motor and sold the trans. well i put the trans in and on cold starts when i come to a stop in 2nd gear, it'll pop out of gear. does it about 5 times then once water temp is up it works fine. i personally think its the mystery converter i put in the car with the trans.
but for it to be slipping out of gear sounds like my old transmission which burned up. no matter what gear it'd slip till it wouldnt grab at all. i've noticed second gear in my trans slips from going 1st-2nd but it feels like a stock transmission which has done a 1st-2nd burn out and its slightly rubed 2nd gear wrong. it defntly wouldnt do well at the track. but again, all gears slipping sounds like bs. i mean for a new trans that is.. you said you had papers? i say take it back n have them check over the clutchpacks. or are the clutchpacks original after the rebuild?
again, that pic is not my car. i just stole the pic for convienience.
My cable crimp rests on the plastic. what measurement do you have based on my illustration?
I think it varies from car to car. I have mine set to the MAX mark (so it upshifts at 5,000 rpm with my foot to the floor). I could go out and measure it for you but it may not be right for your TV cable. It depends on how streached/not streached the cable is, manufacturing variations ect.
True.
Scott I have to measure. The TransGo shift kit with the swapped out rev governor changes my shift points a bit too.
I got a transmission in that the tag shows its originally from a '91 Mustang. I have a question about this now though - what were the stalls between the two? I still need to go back up and check the cable one more time as it may just be shifting high due to the tv cable, but before when ~30mph, the old tranny would always downshift. The new one doesn't until upper 30's. I would assume OD is later as well but I need to check that when I next see the car.
After a minute of running, going from park or neutral into drive or reverse goes into gear hard/jerks entire car. Driving on the street, the transmission hangs around 2000-2200 rpm's much more often and it pulls going up hills much better due to this - the old would downshift earlier and want to stay in the higher gear until more throttle was applied. Everything shifts smooth as it is right now though and going from shifter in 1st to drive causes firm 2-3 shifts with no slippage. Throttle response due to the higher revs during most conditions is excellent.
The transmission took 9 quarts of new oil and isn't slipping so I assume its internally in great shape.
Last couple of issues - 1) the shifter in 1, D, OD, and N are right on the marks but reverse is engaged before the marking and park engages with lots of slop before I press the shifter hard forward to get the thing to lock. The shifter bracket on the tranny is almost perfectly flat unlike the one that came off the old one which had a zigzag shape.
2) I'm not sure what it was as I put a new water pump on, but something was sounding like a squirrel cage somewhere after the transmission. It was intermittent and after driving it around for a few miles, the sound went away. Should this and some other weird higher pitched "spinning" noise that seems to have gone away be worrisome?
edit:
and I readjusted the tv cable. The adjustment was 1/4" further out than with the old transmission.
I just wish everyone with normal setups could go measure per the illustration i marked up.
That pic is not my car but the measurement is still the only thing that matters.
If we all conclude to a ball park number such as 1 1/8'' to 1 1/4'', then thats pretty much all we need.
all my problems went away by relocating the slide part back towards the fire wall and locking it down.
only tools needed was a tiny jewlers screwdriver, leaving the air duct loose to get it out of the way each time i checked.
A normal screwdriver works fine for me? Obviously, moving the adjuster closer to the firewall causes more tension and more fluid pressure and the opposite gives less pressure. I think after that, as long as you're not too low, its a lot of personal preference as to how hard it shifts and when.
the truth of the matter is this........
the previous models such as the CFI applications were not so ,,,humm,,, delicate.
the older models had a TV rod that goes to the transmission. All there is a set screw that you ajust which translated an angle down to the transmission valve body.
On these setups,, a similar design would have been much simpler and easier to fine tune. I would invision a set screw appication up on the trottle body as well but these have a funky clip and slider thing and spring.
I suppose instead of complaining,, just deal with it and always remember,,
"it is what it is"
Seek, you have raised shift points due to the trans being out of a '91 Mustang. Mustangs had a different governer on the tailshaft for higher shift points, the TV cable is not the only thing that controls shift timing, the governer does too.
Thats fine with me. The more the revs, the better...especially in a motor with heads larger than E6's.