Found a few things (that I already knew) searching... So how do I get the dash completely out? I know, 5 bolts, 5 nuts but what else to pull the whole thing as one unit?
Btw, I'm stripping/adding sound material. Need to get to the firewall...
Just set the wiring harness of the bck of it. makes it a ton easier.
Hmm, I'm not sure I follow what you're saying... How many plugs are there to disconnect? Also, anything need to be done with the heater box. I'm assuming there's a couple vac lines, the heater cable.. what about the vents? The heater box will stay on the firewall right?
just a few tie straps hold it in once everything is unplugged, one you take the hvac stuff loose it will stay with the harness, and yes the heaterbox is its own assembly.
ok, cool... Seems simple enough, thanks
I can't remember perfectly, but I believe you have to drop the steering column (I completely removed it for ease). You don't have to touch the core, just remove the vacuum lines from the back of the control deck.
The hardest part for me was getting the cluster harness through and out of the back of the dash. I'd mark everything you can as well. I told myself I'd remember... and I did not.
ahh, so I have to remove the cluster? I guess it wouldn't make sense for them to have another connection behind the dash. So what kind of things did you think i should mark? I can't see there being that much to get mixed up.
Just little stuff... Wires for the trunk/gas release, auto dim, that blue brake thing on the drivers side, clock, headlight/antenna switches, etc. It wasn't too hard to figure out but it added some time.
I don't remember if there's another connection behind the dash for the cluster. I just remember a big mess.
! I forgot about all those connections! Hmm.... I have the entire thing unbolted and the carpet out already. I have from Thursday at 8pm to Friday (my day off) around 11pm to finish pulling the dash, install 2 layers of sound dampening material to the firewall/trans hump and get the dash back in enough to drive it. What do you think? :D
You can do it! Lol I had an "expert" help me with mine, so it wasn't too bad. Once you get all the wires re-ran it will go smoothly. Is it really that loud?
driving a 5 liter powered tin can with 2-chamber flows and dumps at 75mph to work everyday.... Yeah, its loud! Much quieter when the carpet is in... Hearing this much noise on the inside makes me realize what my neighbors have to deal with!! :hick:
Good luck with the dash, mat and reinstall. I hope you have help.
I almost blew a nut trying to get the power seat out myself. lol
LOL, been there.... many times! I just had them in and out several times; my entire interior was just redone leather. I'm used to lifting those heavy bastages! One time I couldn't move the car or open the door far enough so I took the passenger power seat out the window and partially across the roof of the car!
lol- Sounds like something i've done before. Next time your in Buffalo you can help me put my seats back in.
hahaha! you got it!
just for the record.... this sucks! back to work
ok, does ANY of this wiring stay connected to the dash?!?
Ok, I'm not taking it all the way out, just rotating it toward the drivers side enough to do the fatmat.... but I now I need help with the heater box. I got the 3 7/16" bolts out, now what. Is it glued in place? I can't find anymore bolts! Do I need to take it out in a couple pieces?
EDIT: HAHA, more stupidity due to rushing... Ok, I'm off to go disconnect the heater hoses from the core in the engine bay :hick:
Done yet? Let us know the results!
Hahaha, yeah, going slow. Once the dash was off I realized I had to pull the pedal assembly and some more brackets as well as the entire parking brake assembly before I could get my fatmat down. Holy PITA! I currently have my two layers on the firewall down to the seam in the florboards and am putting this back together. This is close to where I left off except I now have the pedals and the factory heat guards back in place... Heater box next...
Oh yeah, and on a sad note... My dash has suffered a fatal blow (in my mind anyway). I lost my balance and put some weight on the dash and it flexed a bit too much. I now have a hairline crack from front to back on my dash... not cool... maybe another reason to swap to sn.
the job doesn't look fun at all.
I guess its time to upgrade the dash
Yeah, gonna save up and grab an 01 plus dash and console in the next few months. In the meantime, I MIGHT get the dash back in tomorrow.... I'm doing a live recording downtown San Diego right now... Bored to death waiting for the band to finally start... Blah!!
yea, those musicians are never on time. lol
Ok, I have this all back together... but I discovered a bare connector on the column that I never saw before... does it need to connect somewhere?!?
That kinda looks like the wire that goes to the ignition lock cylinder. I believe it's for the key warning chime/reminder...? I can't remember, mine had an issue with that when my mechanic replaced my lock cylinder. We couldn't get that wire hooked up, so as a result, I can have the door open with the engine running and no dinging from the chime. Which is kind of nice, actually. Anyway, that's my guess. It was a single loose wire with that type of connector, and that's where it went in my '86.
LOL, kinda nice... thats funny!
Ok, so I'll see if it goes there.... Thanks!
Does your door ding with the key in? (before you try to connect it there)
Yeah, I just tried and it does chime.
It is kinda random. I found it tangled all in with the ignition wiring like it had never been connected anywhere. Also, it has two wires on it. Almost as if it was one wire that was cut in two then reconnected by crimping on a female spade connector....
oh yeah, and the car runs... can't be anything major, just don't want to leave it if it could short out to something...
put a big piece of heatshrink or electrical tape over it just in case.
You'll find out where it goes, when you realize something doesn't work quite right. make sure all your lights and signals work. I'm sure that wire doesn't attach to anything like that, but you had a lot of wires pushed and hanging from that dash. Safety first.
yeah, good idea! I'll tape it up and watch for missing features!
looks like its a jumper wire to the gray plug with the single purple wire
That mister would be to loop right back into the connector it comes from. iT leads up to the steering wheel slip rings for the cruise control. anyone can confirm this by removing the lower steering column cover. I dont even have to think about it,, traced that whole circuit out till i saw parts in my sleep.
BINGO,, you have a good eye for holes:D
btw,, your freaking amazing sometimes. you dont mind taking on big projects do you? id hate to see what you consider a big job.:bowdown:
If you dont have a working cruise or whatever,, i need a minor part on the servo up in the fender well driver side.
LOL! Big? I'll have to get back to you on that one...
Nah, I'll take on some "big" projects when I have a different daily driver. It's gets rough tearing apart the whole car on Friday knowing it has to be back together on Sunday! LOL I do it most weekends though... slowly chippin' away at it! I'll post threads when I do some bigger stuff! :D
So yeah, I did trace this wire up toward the slip rings but that's all the further I got. Why is there a need for a jumper? And is there a safe/factory place to stash this guy other than in a piece of tape?
As for the CC, it doesn't currently work but only because I need a new cable. What part are you looking for?
well, i think you just figured out why your cruise does not operate. that loop back wire needs to do just that,, loop back. Why,, i dono but stuff it back in the hole. The slip rings are there to interconnect the electrical path from your cruise control switches on the steering wheel down to the cruise control amplifier that "was" bolted up under the dash to the left of the brake pedal.
I need the clip that holds the cable to the servo located inside the fender well.
AT this time, Ford says there is no known factory oem replacement and never was a part number for it ever. The lowest replaceable sub assembly was the servo. If your clip was bad, then you had to buy the servo. This was information i got from just one dealer in Charlotte NC.
take a look at the electrical tech section where i posted up my cruise control problem which i finally solved.
Well, I actually think the cruise doesn't work because the servo is sitting on a shelf... but we're all entitled to our opinions! :D I actually just need a new cable and it'l be working fine again.
:D smart a$$:D
If and when you decide to find a cable,, hook me up with a clip. You should see the one on yours,, thats what i need, the one on the servo.
unless you wanna sell yours. that way when you bone yard hunt, you can get the clip and cable.
Smart a$$?!?? hahaha, you know it! and I wouldn't have it any other way. :D
any random chance you have a pic of that clip? I'm probably gonna head to the bone yard within the next month to grab a grip of parts for the project you see below!! :D Otherwise, I'm sure I'll understand when I see it... also, i had an electrical question for you the other day but I forgot it... so be ready. anyway, here's the project (and yes, call me a copycat, but I still love this idea!!):
Hey, that looks like my car. I should be installing mine at the same time.
Nice... I love our dashes to death, I had to have an '85-'88 Bird just because of the dash, but an SN-95 nestled in there that looked stock would be sweet as well.
my god you are sick:flip:
Why would anyone do this to themselves on purpose:hick: You da man,, some part of this needs to be a sticky espesially with the pics you have.
My cruise clip pic is in the want to buy section called cruise control clip.
Also detailed pics are in electrical tech under cruise control solved.
thanks in advance if you can get to this because my fiirst and second lead on the clip fell through.