Finally figured out how to resize. This is my87 XR7 that I have been trying to (somewhat) restore. It has the 5.0 that thus far I have bored .030 over. I have plans on putting in the biggest cam that will be streetable. Have one in mind from comp cam. Also working on upgrading to mass air. Front end is torn down do to rotted frame rails. Just sand blasted rails and plan on capping with 14 gauge steel. I am waiting on warmer weather to weld caps in place. Will put in all new bushings and rack. Not sure what more will be done other than sand blasting entire under side of car and adding patch panels where needed.
Do you have any pics of the frame rails?
Just wondering how bad they are.
Here is a pic of each side of the frame rails. Thanx for inquiring.
Yours are a lot worse than mine. That pass. side is gunna need a little extra work. I was also going to add some extra support on mine too. Hows the floor and rockers?
That silver trim looks sharp.
The floor pans have a few holes, but I do not think they are that bad. I plan on putting in new support bars and top plates. Rockers appear to be in good shape. I do not have a pic of after I sand blasted. It really is not as bad as it looks. I used this product(I think it is called SEMS) after sand blasting to prevent any further rot. I was told it is good stuff and it looks good also. I have used on the 'K' Frame and that looks good.
TC2-- Thanks. I have not seen another like it. I think with the black going through the center of the silver, it really sets it off.
mine had a few holes too. then I stripped the interior and it turned into this
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/IMG_2846.jpg)
holy hell....... u sure u want to do this it going to be pretty hard to fix it right.
Midget28...Do not know what you are referring to. The frame rail is staying where it is and a cap being put over it. Not sure where the degree of difficulty is for you???
Floor pan right over the subframe. i hate drilling spot welds i guess if it doesnt bother u its not so bad. my car was rusted pretty bad through there but it was a stock car so i just cut that out with the torch and replaced it with 12 guage steel for safety.
That pic is not my car. That explains it. I did not see that pic at work as good as I see it know. Now I understand..LOL..My floor pan is no where near as bad as that. You can see that one is rotted from under side. Mine appears to be more solid..I hope anyhow
here's a nicer one
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/IMG_3003.jpg)
daminc.. are you rebuilding or already have???Just curious as it does look bad. BUt nothing is impossible to fix with the know how..
I've recently started, but work keeps getting in the way 7 days a week.
Figures, I've only worked in winter twice in my life. I guess it just means i'll have more money for the motor.
Here it is to the point that it's been sitting at for the last month
my sig link has the rest of the tear apart pics
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17304 (http://"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17304")
That is looking better. How did you prefab your pieces???And what gauge steel did you use?? My rockers are not at this point showing rot like yours did. I hope there is not that much there. I have the rot at the lower corner of the flor baoard just like yours so now i am little scared and worried mine are going to be very bad. Well I will deal with what ever is tossed my way.
I'm not sure what you mean by prefab. I've got a metal brake, bead roller, nibbler, r, mig and anything else for metal working
I'm using 20 and 16 ga. for the majority of the patches.
20 for the rockers. 20 for the inner rocker 20 for the floor
front end got blasted then sealed ---inside when I pull the motor
I'm currently working on the drivers side floor (blasting, patching and sealing)
I've got used rust free fenders, TC hood, quarters,drivers door
my rockers rotted from the inside out. mainly from the front fender and the quarter panels.
The metal was so thin, the paint was the only thing left. I put my finger right through the rocker when i touched it. only on the drivers side. I'll probably replace the pass. side also unless i can get a look inside it somehow.
the floors I thought were good until I stripped the inside. I thought they were still decent until I took the sound deadening off the floor and the floor came with it. I didn't see that coming.
I wish I would have started working on her about 5 years ago, instead of storing her.
I did see rust on your car in the same places as mine. esp. the rocker/quarter panel seam.
If you need any more info let me know
Jerry
Thanks for your input. You answered my prefab Q and you did not even know it. I dont have all that equipment you mentioned so I have to have a metal shop bend everything for me..Kinda sucks but I have to do what I have to do. Not sure when I will tear out the inside but it will happen. As I stated earlier not really looking to win trophies but close would be nice..
As long as you have a good welder it should come out looking pretty decent
Hey I'm from Illinois too (Chicago the best part ;) ). Welcome!
Looks like you're having fun with your Cougar. The rust issue is the reason I got my 88 T-bird from California. Salt is evil.........
Those pics make me extremely happy that my car is a florida car. Only a little bit of surface rust, but the grease and sludge deposits kept the metal protected na dit didn't rust out:hick:
Keep us posted on the project. we'll compare notes when were done.
We like a lot of pics too.
Will do. Car is 30 minutes away so it is difficult to get there. When weather breaks I will get more pics. Might even be able to get picks of the frame rails after sand blasting.
What media are you using to blast?
It is from Menards home improvement center. It is black and says good for all blasters. About $6.00 per 50lbs. Nothing special It looks like it does a great job. Will know better after some time passes if rust appears again, I guess.
seal it after you blast, it'll never rust again
I use aluminum oxide media
I used a product called SEMS or is by that name. It is comparable to POR15. I have the K frame here at work where I used this product and it really looks good for using a paint brush. I did not get it all smooth as the metal has pits in it. Like I stated earlier, I am not so concerned with how the under side looks. More concerned with no rust and holes. Before I started tearing it apart again, I noticed exhaust getting into the interior. So I knew there were holes to contend with in the floor board. I need to just do one thing at a time or it will never get done. Plans are getting the front end back on as soon as weather good. All I need to do is weld my caps in place and build. Hopefully goes smooth. Then I will proceed towards the rear. Trying to keep from gutting interior as space to store parts is limited. I really want it to run by May 25 when there is a Thunderbird meet near meet and I would like for thoose Tbirds to see a good Cougar...LOL..Do not know if I have enough time to get it done. PRAY, PRAY, PRAY
Finally had some time to put into car. Sad but I did not get it running for the Tbird show :hick: Here are some pics of the frame rail caps welded in place. I suck at welding so keep that in mind. Hey there are some of the rot I have to contend with..LOL..Keep looking and there are more of the frame rail.
More pics:
More pics: Still have to do some work on the strut towers. Planning on capping them also.
nice work!!
Looks pretty nice.
What did you use for paint?
I used a product made by SEMS. It is a rust inhibator. It is about the same as POR15. Cost about 80 bucks a gallon. Seems to be good stuff. Not good for sunlight areas..Want to get some in the rails themselves to try and prevent any further rot. Have not found a wand yet to get in there..
Go to eastwood. They have them
I feel sorry for you guys and all of that work. You need to buy your next car from Chicago. Then it will be as nice as mine. LOL.
oh my...
Holy Hell! Wow. I hope that was just a parts car and wasnt drivin.
I love that pic.
Thats when its time to give up on a car. although. if you got a few months to kill........
What you don't have salt up by you? :hick:
Yes, we do have salt, way too much. It just seems like your salt is better though because every car I've looked at from Chicago has had way more rust than our cars. You guys must use industrial strength salt or some special extra metal-hungry formula....
sorry guys.....BUT THE BEST RUST CONDITIONED T_BIRDS AND COUGARS ARE IN ALABAMA, MISSISSIPPI, AND UPPER FLORIDA
Had some time to work on the Cougar this weekend. Started by fitting some new panels for the floor pan. Thought it looked pretty good for the first time ever working with metal and welder. Check it out...
And some more pics
After fitting and getting the pieces tack welded toghether I pulled the whole piece out to coat it as well as the remainder of the inside of the floor pan. Here is what it looks like now before I weld in the piece. Still going to need additional pieces to complete this part of the project.
Daminc: I owe this part of the project to you. I watched your thread and used your technic...Thanks
That is a terrible pic. Sorry I tried to resize twice and I guess that is bad to do.....LOL.....LOL....
Looks like something I've seen before. LOL
Looking good. Keep up the good work
May be worth your while to get a hole punch
Let me guess. the other side is a lot better.
Yes the other side is alot better..LOL..LOL...LOL.. Thank GOD I do not think I could do 2.......Oh what the heck why not, any thing is possible w/a little know how and time..
how's the inner rocker where it meets the floor on yours?
Not bad. Someone replaced the rockers before so it is in prettty good shape. There is some rusting there but it looks like there is enough metal to weld to.
Make sure you weld the floor to the frame and the rocker real good. thats a big stress point along the rocker without SFCs
Also make sure the jackstand isn't pushing the frame up, before you weld the floor in.
Just a couple tips.
I was planning on seam welding the entire piece. I think the frame is where it is supposed to be. I do not know how to check it for accuracy. Any clues??? Thanks for the input
You should be OK it you keep the stand as far forward as you can, or take some weight off the stand with a jack up front and see if the frame moves at all off the stand. That was my only reason for leaving the motor and wheels on. So it was sitting in it's level position on all 4s.