so i plan on ordering the rotating assembly for my 347 this week and send it out to get it machined saturday. but before i actually buy the parts and screw myself over, i have some questions hopefully you all can answer cus i cant find them anywhere else in this forum.
the kit im looking at right now will be 10.5:1 compression ratio. kinda high. whats usually the most compression u can run on 93 octane? i think ill have to mix 93 and race fuel with 10.5 to 1, which would suck driving any distance with not many racing fuel stations around. to those who have done a 347 swap, did you get a kit capable of runing 93? i have 60cc heads btw.
also does anybody have a fuel injected 347? i've seen a few carbed ones out there. but im not sure which injectors to go with. i plan on getting this cam (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D35%2D775%2D8&autoview=sku) with my 2.02/1.60 edelbrocks. would 30's do it? or would 36's be better? i have no idea to be honest.
thanks everybody.
Keith
with aluminum heads i believe ive heard 11:1 compression depending on the cam.theres a with more rpm range cam its the x.e. 274 .555/.565 its part #is249-35-518-8 it has a range of 2200-6200rpm needs a 2500 plus stall.id go to jegs cause u can see how big a stall it needs i think it doesnt show for that cam but with it u need aabout 3200 stall and gears if no gears it will be gutless just like my brothers camaro was....
Lotta cam(will your springs handle it?)... I recommend the small Trick Flow, cheaper and plenty for a street driver... If you want more lift get a nice set of 1.7 rockers.. The savings on the cam will pay for half of it...
10.5 should be fine with aluminum heads...
i was thinking of going the route of 1.7's, but i already bought 1.6 rollers and i really dont want to have to buy rockers twice. the springs on the head are the dual springs and will work with up to .60 of lift. and 10.5 will be fine with pump gas? wow, that really surprises me. how does them being aluminum heads or not make a difference?
The amount of static compression you are able to run with pump gas is determined by the timing events of the camshaft. Determining what will work with an off the shelf cam is a shot in the dark. Based on my poor experiences with OTS cams and excellent results with custom cams, I recommend contacting a custom cam grinder. The greatest part about a custom cam is the way it can be designed to meet your performance needs, around the parts you have assembled for your engine. There is no doubt it's more expensive. It was the best money I have ever spent on a performance part! I have worked with Jay Allen at Camshaft Innovations on three engines. He has you fill out an extensive build sheet listing all of the engine and drive train specifics as well as goals for the vehicle. He will tell you what will will work, what won't work and what may need to be upgraded to get to your goals (i.e. injectors). If you are looking to do it right the first time, this is the way to go. I've been around the block trying to get by on the cheap. It has led me to swapping parts and chasing gremlins trying to find the drivablity and performance to make the car fun. I would have saved money if I had gone the custom route to begin with...
i agree with you on the custom ground cam, i'm sure that would be EXCACTLY what i want in a cam, and in the engine altogether. but i simply cant afford that right now. im starting to count my nickels and dimes on this project. keep in mind, this project started out as a simple H.O. conversion, nothing more. one thing leads to another and i gain 45 cubes and alot bigger cam. needless to say, my budget wasnt too prepared for this.
i talked to a guy i work with whose raced cars all his life, and he said 10.5 should be ok with the right cam. and i can always adjust timing to compensate some. pretty much as long as i dont race it with pump gas, just cruising, it should be ok.
does that cam really sound too much? it did seem a touch high to me, but it also states that its made for the cylinder velocity of a 347, and i thought maybe i was getting thrown off from looking at 5.0 cams and that this wasnt too much. any advise on what spec of cam to get? i'll mostly just cruise around on summer weekends and car shows. maybe to a track a couple times. but as much money as im spending, i wanna KNOW that i have more then enough power to keep up with others at the track.
if i spend this much money and loose to every mustang and camaro that goes up against me. ill just go crazy
don't run anything under 93!! when I was younger and poor I had to run 87 twice and both times I ran it I blew the head gasket. but I run 93 and I have the 10.5 compression setup but when I go racing it's all 110:burnout: :hick: P.S. still poor:D
thank you. thats exactly what i wanted to know. i knew 87 wouldnt cut it. but i was hoping 93 would work in cruising/normal street use. awesome
did you buy yours as a kit or did you buy your parts individually?
this is the kit i plan on getting. if you notice anything that would screw me over, please tell me. i saw that its balanced and it have 2 valve reliefs. 2 things i was told be sure it has.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB16422LA030&autoview=sku
thanks
That one is not too bad my eagle kit came with forged JE pistons.One thing I set up with my machine shop was they clean then check for cracks then line hone and resurface and bore.Then I told them I need to notch the piston sleves and then to bring it back for a second clean and install freeze plugs and cam berrings.Try erwparts.com
the machine shop i plan on using is one the shop i work at uses. i guess they gave me some sorta discount cus it'll be about $700 to have them do everything nessesary for the swap and have them build the bottom end. but thats minus decking and line honing. it only being a 60k mile block i dont feel its too nessesary, they said they can inspect how off each measurment is for $20 a peice. i might just have them inspect just for reassurance.
but for a comparison, another local shop was about $1400 to do the same things. and thats for a shop i have no reviews for. i know that my shops machine shop has good quality and trusted work.
what does notching the piston sleeve mean and what does it do?
clearance for the longer stroke.I bought the 88 5.0 block from the machinist had it magnafluxed, line honed ,0 decked and installed cam bearings and freeze plugs all for $550. and then I assembled the rest because I don't trust anyone unless it's stuff I just can't do.(like machining)
to be honest. im still pretty young. i know enough i can build the top end with little problems, but the bottom end would be too much for someone of my skill level. i know that tolerance are very minute and the slightest mistake can ruin the engine. i trust someone who does this for a living much more then i trust myself doing that kind of work.
i think i found a desent cam. i tried calling summit but thier technical support closes at 9.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D35%2D518%2D8&autoview=sku
that one doesnt seem as radical. and if that does seem like the right cam for me. would a 2400 stall converter be best?
i apologize for asking so many questions, i know i've asked alot. i just know you all have done this and you know what works and what wont. and i really do apritiate any help you can give me
keith
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D51402001&autoview=sku
This is the closest one to the one comp cams selected for me but I think I want to get the one larger then this one not sure yet.
As for the 2400 stall you won't even notice a difference from stock(had that before the 3000) I have a 3000 and I need more but my set up is a little more radical then yours.But if you need help call comp cams or crane they will ask you questions and you answer and they will tell you what you should run.You don't have to use their cam but it is a good start
i called comp cams and they recomended this cam
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=35-775-8&Category_Code=
i think that the one i posted earlier. thats alot of cam. they also said i might be able to run 24 lbs injectors if i boost the pressure up some, and that 30 lbs might be better. i'm almost worried now from you all saying how much cam that is. i guess it'd be ok right. comp cams should know thier stuff.
wow, thats going to be lumpy sweet!!!!!!!!!
yea, i was pretty shocked when he recomended this cam. i said, wow are u serious, thats alot of cam dude. he said, yeah, but thats a 347, you got alot more engine now... and your gonna love the torque this cam will put out for you.
so i guess i'm sold. i'll buy the stuff tonight.
thanks again everybody!
Keith
Sorry I have missed your posts on this thread about your cam. Hopefully you haven't purchased the parts yet, if you have, you may consider sending them back. If you want an education on cams and valvetrain go to SBFTECH.com. I have found it to be the best tech support on engine building and picking the right parts once. In my experience getting good information on part selections from a cam tech line didn't happen. I will describe the issues I have had with going with a cam which was highly recomended by a cam company tech line. I had the car dyno'd and got a chip burned to get it to run decent. The idle did sound incredible, but surging and stalling was always a problem (with an idle of 1,100 RPM). Power came on great after 3,000 rpm, pretty soggy below, power fell off the cliff after 5,600 (due to valve train instablity). Keep in mind, I went with the package of springs and cam recommended. Mileage was was consistently 10 MPG around town and 18 on the highway. It was not a car that was fun to drive. My wife didn't like to ride in it because she didn't like the stink of unburned fuel.
The cam I had made for it completely changed the nature of engine. It now idles at 750 RPM, has amazing low end torque and pulls to 6,000 RPM. Mileage is now 16 MPG around town and up to 24 MPG on the highway (easily average 20 per tank). This was without ever having a chip reburned for it.
I am not new at this, I have been working on cars for 35 years. I have bought many camshafts and built many engine combinations. There was always a trade off on the performance I received. In retrospect, I always went with a cam that was too big (though they sounded nasty!). I didn't realize I could have my cake and eat it too with a custom camshaft. Granted it doesn't have the tough idle, but it has everything else!
We all have cash flow issues justifying the money spent on speed parts. I have used the same rationale, trying to save a few dollars here and there. It was hardly cheaper for me to buy the tech line "recommended" stuff and then go and buy the right stuff. Just a suggestion to learn from my mistakes. It's cheaper to do it right once! If you want another example, go to SBFTECH and read the thead on "noisy comp cams XE-274", under 260-302 Small Blocks. It will let you know how bad in can get.
You have the basis for a great project and I applaud your recognition of the need to have a professional put the bottom end together. By the time all is said and done you may have as much as $4,000-$5,000 in it, what's another $100-$200 now?
BTW the cam I had was the XE-274-HR
very noteworthy article. i have sent jay a form regarding buying one of his cams. 400 buck isnt too bad really considering the cam i bought was about 300. summit has a good return policy i hope. i'll let ya'll know how it goes. thanks for recomending him to me. he seems to definatly know his stuff
Kieth, I'm really glad you spoke to him. You will be amazed at the amount of back ground info he will provide and the incredible service you will receive. I've been amazed at how generous he is with his time. He will walk you through assembly to sorting the bugs out. He will call a spade a spade though! Hope everything goes well for you.
Mark
Good luck with that set up and at least you won't end up like Slopoke :(