first, i got an 87 sport coupe with the 302 and the stock AOD. It had already had been rebuilt before i got the car and about a year ago my transmission cooler fittings dumped all my fluid and i still had to drive it home. it burned it up good but i put an after market one to band aid it for a while and it worked but now as you could guess its done for. i got a guy at work that bought a 302 that came with a AOD and he wants to put a C (3-4 i cant remember) so he wasn't using it so i bought it off of him. i noticed it was stamped 54 on the bell housing and the tail shaft needs to be swapped out, also the manual shift lever is turned down where mine is up. but i can fix all that but i got a question. once i got mine out i noticed that everything looked the same (aside mentioned above) but the stock one from my car is stamped 31x where the one i bought has 54. I've seen in other swaps people using the 54 stamped AOD for their applications so i was figuring that the 31x was stamped b/c in it's stock configuration it has the shorter tail housing with the electronic (digital) speedo. but i was wondering if theres anything else I'd need to look for? i mean i know an AOD is an AOD is an AOD (as long as its not an AODE, so I'm not too worried, but just thought I'd ask you guys...
also anyone know how much trans fluid and the recomended type to use? i misplaced my owners manual (put it up TOO GOOD)
no one come across this before? what about the amount of atf and the brand i need? any help would be greatly appreciated!
Don't know about the numbers,but the the one you want to get was set up for a floor shifter "lever down",can be flipped.The fluid any name brand merc 5 fluid will due.I think it's somewhere around 8 qts. to fill.
12 quarts Dexron/Mercon fluid. Type V fluid is designed for Ford transmissions built after 2000 or thereabouts.
Large cast numbers on the transmission case generally mean nothing... AFIK it's a number in the casting mold to identify it...
Don't think I've seen two with the same number...
BUT if the tail housing is too long, the shaft is longer as well... Likely it's from a Lincoln Mark VII, those have the down pointing lever for the floor shifter and are longer than Bird/Mustang unit...
Yeah, the numbers on the bell housing designate what mold it came out of. Use Mercon V in it, because that is what replaced Dexron III/Mercon. Its not licensed anymore, so you will probably have a hard time finding some leftover. Mercon V is backwards compatible in the older transmissions, but not the older fluid in the newer transmissions. Also, make sure you flush your cooler and lines really well, otherwise the old nasty stuff from your blown up trans will get into the new one and burn it up too, probably the reason your first replacement blew.
had a Fox Mustang guy (bought some parts from him) tell me this wasen't so.
He wanted the AOD out of my 88 bird for his Stang, He said that was the hot mustang replacment tranny becouse the bands were wider.
Anybody ever heard of such a thing?
i've heard even crazier things from people who hang on every word someone on the interweb says. The only thing that i've seen different is the tailshaft.. thats it. an AOD is an AOD is an AOD as long as its not AODE. :P even when i opened it up to fix the manual shift lever the internals were exactly the same (i ran out of time and my dad finished it up for me since im using his garage)
btw thanks to slowfoxbird for the heads up, i forgot to do that (havnt ran it at all since the driveshaft has to be shortened, the splines on the new tailshaft isnt deep enough for my stock yoke, so instead of taking the hog out and fixing it and im not ganna alter the yoke either so im just ganna shorten the driveshaft, its cheap.)
i JUST opened the box of ATF my dad got me and this is what i have
Valvoline DEX/MERC
Fine print: "For vehicles requiring Dexron-III/Mercron"
Would this be better or just as good as mercron v? (dont ask where he found it unless i go over there tonight to measure the driveshaft and pick it up to go have it shortened, actually i think i might do that) it came in a brown box without any names on it.
He's FOS... The Stang tranny is a bit better than the Bird unit even if it is only mostly valve body calibration... The Stang also has a larger O/D servo("B" vs "C")... AFIK, only bands in the transmission are for reverse and O/D... Other forward gears are by clutch engagement, amount of clutches can vary by engine application...
Best transmissions would be the ones from the Super Coupes and Pickups(but AFAIK the P/U tranny is longer like the LSC version)... The SC tranny has a bit better calibration in the valve body and the large "A" O/D servo... The P/U has "A" servo plus larger (2" vs 1.5") O/D band...
sorry to be such a newb (again) but whats AFAIK or AFIK mean? i usually figure out most of the annograms but not that one "as a matter of fact?" or something?
Like I said earlier, Dexron-III/Mercron is the stuff you want for the AOD.
[COLOR="Red"]DO NOT PUT MERCON-V IN AN AOD!![/COLOR]
Yeah, do like me and use "F"... Hey it's been in there since '99(changed a few times), still goin'...
Ran "F" in the sick AODE in the Grand Marquis for 98Kmi(from 33K to 131K, over nine years) when it finally started losing line pressure and would drop out of gear idling(Yeah wife about finished it off at the power puff drags)... Front seal is still tight, but it's leaking around the outside of the pump... Pump housing gasket may have fixed that, but would have still had the 1-2 shift issue, so it's outta there... Interestingly the pan is clean on that transmission...
Yeah I put DextronIII/Mercron in the new one...
All OD bands in AODs were the same, 1.5", the only difference is the apply servo. 1, 2, and 3, are clutch packs, OD and Rev are bands. Jim, that Mustang guy must have been thinking about the SuperCoupe trans, and thought that all 'Bird trans were the same... For sure you want the "A" servo if you can find one, or just get an aftermarket servo and pop in there, and it will have even more holding power than the A servo. I have never heard of or seen bigger bands in trucks,but then again, AODs are a little old to be coming in anyway. They do usually have the longer tailshafts like the Lincolns do. V8Demon, who told you not to use Merc V in an AOD, that is what is replacing the old stuff because it is backwards compatible with the older transmissions. Won't hurt it at all. We can't even get Motorcraft DexIII/Merc anymore, it all supercedes to the Merc V.
I agree with slowfox,I went to my trans guy he says the same thing "back compatible",seen the lables on the drums.
Merc 5's a bit more slippery than the old,Witch I'm not sure if thats good or bad!.I've been runnin it in mine.
guess what... after i had the new transmission in, everything hooked up, the driveshaft was last before filling it up... the yoke didn't go in all the way. the splines weren't machined deep enough on the new tailshaft... so instead of taking it all back out and swapping that shaft, i got the driveshaft shortened, yoke stock and unaltered, will this cause any issues? the yoke doesn't go in as much as an inch... how much risk do i have of it falling out when the rear articulates?
Your doin fine by shortening the shaft.Of course balance it.
1" isn't much,I think you need a little more.
ya know, ive been readin thru some of the stories in your recent posts(and theres alot of em to read), and i started to get this sorta deja-vu type feeling.......
so, i did a lil diggin around and i discovered that the transmission story in this thread sounds a helluva lot like this one. (http://"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=12824")
and the description in your wanted thread for center markers, here (http://"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17527"), reminds me a whole lot of this guys pics i found. (http://"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=12063")
would be pretty lame to start a second ID on here acting like a newb all over again, and tellin the same stories. who are you tryin to fool? i mean comeon, lets compare the profiles; same location, same vehicle, your AIM screen name is even autocat5oh. how stupid do ya think we are? :mad:
so, you wanna come clean ~AC? or is it Autocat? :beatyoass:
i came clean and kept it clean in PM's. thanks for everyone's patience and understanding on this issue. thanks for letting me make up for being the previous d!ck i was to a lot of people. i WAS autocat, i am now today AC. im here for advice, respect the people here b/c of out of all car enthusiasts (other than being ford) they share the same intrests and to be honest, a lof of you guys are well worth my respect and a case of beer.
thanks again for everyone letting this blow over. autocat was a snobby pos kid that thought he knew everything in the world and was superiror. me, AC, have a lot of respect for people who work on cars b/c now i know how hard it actually is (well not hard, but it takes some thinking) so i'll prolly ask for advice and pass on any when its needed. have a good day guys n gals :)
Your welcome!
i just noticed that i was receiving bad reputation points, and they're in a question form. who do i contact b/c if they have an issue i would gladly discuss it with them and clear it up. im not trying to pick a fight, i just dont want people to continue to be mad at me. i regret posting this but i have no idea who to contact. PM if you want, but i feel very welcome here, and i have stopped myself many times from posting thinking it might be a post w post. im trying to keep clean here, i dont want any trouble or cause any.
btw thank you thank you to kitzdnm and everyone else!
Ok, I brought this question over here because we were starting to hijack the other guy's thread. If the speedo seems to be reading correctly at highway speeds, then the sensor's driven gear, and the trans drive gear are probably the same as before, that is good news because you do not have to calibrate the speedo now. Now the question is, how long does it display speed after you come to a stop? 2-3 seconds, or more like 30? 2-3 would be completely normal, just call it an old ass processing system playing catch-up to what is actually happening. If the car never had that concern before, then it is slightly possible that you have a new signal feeding into the speed sensor circuit. Problem with that is that speed sensor produce an AC signal, and these old cars dont have many of those, if any, near that part of the harness on the car to short into that circuit. Look at the wiring harness at the top of the trans bellhousing to see if part of it is pinched.
cool i'll check tomarrow, im ganna try to clean up the front tomarrow anyway. unless i get sidetracked. i got a multimeter etc so i'll check the harness, got nothing better to do anyway.