my father told me after winter i get to have has much hp as my brother does in his car (grand prix GTP) and he has 350hp. so my father said he would have my motor totally rebuild.
so i was just wondering what the best bang for the buck was for parts. crankshaft, pistons, rods, heads, etc.
any advice?
im also getting a mustang rear end and my transmission totally serviced with a shift installed.
i also want my motor to be naturally aspirated.
A good start is if your rebuilding and looking to replace internals go w/a good 347 package. Then any decent combo after that will give you more than that and a good tune you will be pushing 400.
skip the 347 and go with a 331 for the street. Trust me, it will last longer. then top it with a set of AFR205 heads, or twisted wedge, and a nice Edelbrock intake.
He didn't say 400-450hp guys.
Skip both, just get a stock 5.0L HO and put a heads/cam/intake kit on it from trick flow.
Add some 2.5" true duals,shortie headers and a cold air.
Should be dam close to 350HP.
:iagree:
Get the Trick-flow kit. Easiest way to go. Make sure you get the one that makes less hp but more torque as these cars are heavy;)
He also didn't state whether or not that was at the crank or at the tires.....
Ahem....A 5.315" rod 347 uses the same piston as a 331 (I'd use a 5.4" rod myself though). Don't even go down the Rod/stroke ratio road. They're close enough. Both right around 1.6. Here's one even worse than both from an OEM. An old 400 SBC. 5.565 rod and a 3.75 stroke FROM THE FACTORY with CAST pistons. R:S = 1.496
Me? I'll take the extra 16 cubes and all of their benefits when it comes time to do up a stroker.
Lastly, building up the motor is great, but what about the supporting cast? Rear gear ratio? Torque converter stall speed? Will the shift kit you're installing address the issue of WOT RPM's? The stock weights in the tailshaft will hold you back considerably.
Just some food for thought.
Well I HAD an article on reversing the piston rods for more hp. But the site changed. Here was the link, does anyone remember it? It would've been a simple way to get 400 jp without spending tons of cash. http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898/
Your right the trick-flow kits is the best bang for your buck but I would put it on a rebuilt bottom end. I was able to reuse my pistons but if you have to replace them might as well go w/a stroker kit. Good pistons are cost 500 machining the crank cost 100+ bearing and rings 100 etc,ect. Scat sells the whole kit for 800 FFRP for 1200. It’s up to you.
TFS advertises 350 hp w/there kit on a rebuilt flattop piston 306 making 9.6:1 compression.
go with a 351w w/AFRs , save $$ from not getting stroker and put into tranny and driveshaft.
Hey whats your brother have done to the GP GTP? what year is it?
i was watching horsepower and they only made 270RWHP with the trickflow kit.
i would have to bore the cylinders out for a 331 right?
i'll take 350RWHP.
what stall conveter should i use for that kind o HP?
If you need a 351 core to rebuild I have one. It's a mid-80's factory 4bbl model with rear sump pan. $150
Another way to get an honest 350hp is a near stock Cadillac 500 engine. ;)
TED
A little lower than average......Most get right at the 300 RWHP mark and slightly above.
Kinda figured your magic number was for the wheels;)
I like Ted's ideas :hick:
Hey Ted, that 351... PM me? ;)
331 or 351 With some AFR heads
#1 331 is by stroke not bore
#2 351 94 and up in trucks are just as cheap and are already roller
As for its not as strong it will still be allot stronger then the 302
Block
#3 350 at the rear wheels I have to think you going to lose 70-100 horse threw the auto
trany D/S and rear and tires so your goal should be 425-450 that’s some heavy HP on
the street and not very streetable so I hope you have a 2nd car I’m no expert at this
one but I think that much power at the rear wheels on a car weighing just over 3k will
run low 11s
425-450 IS HEAVY HORSE FOR THE STREET AND NOT STREETABLE?????
Maybe for a 4cyl turbo!!!
I run between 450-500hp and drive mine almost everywhere in the summer time on nice days.
My car idles just like factory(could be do to the factory cam lol)and runs mint.
^what he said! I see that car every other week and never a serious problem, and like he siad, you would NEVER guess the power from looking at it or listening to it idle.
450 is nothing if you have a decent set-up. it is the combos that aren't sorted out properly that aren't streetable at that power level.
Hell I guess the new shelby isn't a streetable car, I wonder why ford decided to build a none streetable car. :dunno::hick:
450 hp on a pushrod V8 80 technology is not very good gas mileage. And if he puts a stall converter in it.
Today’s cars are today technology; it’s almost unfair what there putting out at the factory. But it’s his car I don’t recommend building a super hotrod motor for everyday driving.
funny, what kind of motor is in the Z06 corvette? and what is its power level? of course the fuel milage goes down, it takes fuel to make power.... if he wanted economy I bet he would be asking how to improve mileage from his daily driven focus or something. not trying to be an ass, (ok yes I am) but he asked how to make a certain amount of power. We told him. At that power level it will be VERY Streetable, and a very nice DD. yes his milage will go down, but it wont be none streetable, by anymeans, as long as he sorts out the combo and uses the right set of parts, (no you dont want a 4000rpm stall converter and 90/10 struts for a street car)
302 cubes and 450 crank HP make for a motor that HAS to wind just a bit higher than stock to say the least in N/A form. The extra cubes will help that some.
Streetable is different things to different people. To some it may mean getting better than 15 MPG out of their pushrod motor.
Like Paul said “Streetable is different things to different people” just given him information to help him on his decisions.
To get 350 rwhp from a 302 on the street you will need a little help, but this might be the best way; NOS or blower. I always thought the bolt on supercharger kits would be the way to go; if you have the money.
TED
350 RWHP from a 302? How about two IHIs feeding a nice IC feeding a long block built for economy? Good low end, good top end, and it stays a "turbo" coupe.
Is the AOD going to hold this power? I did not see the part about naturally aspirated.
I think 350hp is going to be a challenge. Remember that torque rules on the street, go as big as you can. You also have a pretty heavy car.
Has your bother been to the strip to see what times you have to beat?
One more question; How is your shoulder? I hope all is well now.
TED
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_760264_-1
or
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Performance-Pat-Ganahl/dp/1884089275/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-9111688-4700944?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1193796651&sr=8-1
or
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.theclassiccougarnetwork.com/elim/history/his06.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.theclassiccougarnetwork.com/elim/history/history.html&h=265&w=352&sz=70&hl=en&start=6&um=1&tbnid=h1Y9NLyvJ0IijM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dboss%2B302%2Bengine%26svnum%3D10%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN
+ this carb
http://www.mustangandfords.com/mufp_0609_1967_shelby_mustang_gt350/photo_03.html
(don't believe that "290" stuff)
I would agree with the 351 swap and some mild heads and cam. A stroker kit, if it is in the budget, would be even better. Having more cubic inches doing less work is the way to make good torque and longevity. It will also get decent mileage without having to rev and be hard on parts.
Streetable depends on the road your on your driving skills and last your car.
Also does almost any LS1 have almost 350hp??? i know i should not say that but you might find one cheap.
Thanks for all the links. I like the sound of the Edelbrock kit, and on a 351 this would make a great combo. My only question is, why do they not include the push rods and rockers and make it a complete kit?
Also make me want to work on my 69 Cougar I have in the back shed. I purchased this in 1979 and it has 80k on it, but with a crack block. I had a 351 4bbl rebuilt and new tires and brakes and there it sat since. Even has lots of NOS parts with it. One of these days.
TED
Your T-Bird is very nice but please someday fix up the cougar I hope to get one in the new few years paint it yellow and black with a blower out the hood.
i cant get a 351 because my dad wants to get the stock engine block to keep matching numbers ( we are keeping all stock parts in garage)
so do you guys think i should get a 331 stroker kit with AFR 185's heads with a comp cam fwnx264hr14? what intake manifold should i get? i'll also pick up a pair of roller rockers. would a 3000 stall be ok?
this is what my brother has in his GTP
Rebuilt Engine, Custom Cam, 3.22 MPS Pulley - 1.9's modded rockers- Custom Intense PCM- 72mm ZZP TB- W-body Shift Kit- PEM'S in to a 3" Down pipe- ZZP TB SPacer- Autolights 104's- Wizard CAI- 9" K&N Cone- Flowmaster Cat-back-180* T-Stat- U-bend and Res. delete- Dual Aeroforce scan gauges- airfuel gauge- Traction T/A 235/60/16.
Our car are not worth much put a 514 into it and its not worth much more than it is right now. Every $3 you put into ours car you might be lucky to get $1 back over 50% of the money you spend consider it gone and never to return. The only #s you need are RWHP and RWTQ and how many cars you can keep up with or dust.
281 4V
302
306
331
Skip the 347
351
392
408
427,428,429
460
514
CAD, well, im getting trans serviced and shift kit so i hope that will be enough...
my shoulder is ok, the doctor said it will never be 100% again
and i tore one of my hamstring muscles. its not a complete tear but the back of my leg was full of blood underneith the skin from the tear. that happened a month ago. im coming back to playing football tomorrow though. but i cant play in games because of it. so im pretty much just hitting the 1st string players and getting them ready for the game. thanks for asking CAD.
also, im still looking for that 8.8 for you to out in also. i cant find one with 3.55 gears yet.
Sorry i did not know you got hurt that bad hope it heals soon.
Do you know what shift kit your getting??? Also your car looks good and whatever you do with it i hope you get around the power you want and get it done right hopefully the 1st time around so you don't gotta swap out a lot of parts down the road.
So your looking for a TC rearend with 3.55s how much can you spend on one? i might know one person that still has one on his parts car.
Almost sorry I asked, ouch. But I'm glad you are back in the game, you sound like one tough kid!
Get any 8.8 and a set of 3.55 or 3.73 gears to put in it.
TED
thanks carpimp.
yeah, im looking for a 8.8. that would be alot of money to ship!
CAD, how much more money would you charge to put the gears into. i remember you saying you'll charge $200 to put the 8.8 in but thats it though,
haha i have always been a tough kid when it comes to playing sports. plus its my senior year and we are in the playoffs. so if we lose im done playing football anyways. we play saturday, so i might only have 3 days of practicing...
At the same rpm and efficiency, cubic inches will always make more power. With the air to feed it.
This does not always mean it will be faster...thus the 351 vs 302 debate. A properly prepared 347 vs a similarly prepared 331, the 347 should always be better across the board. Horsepower AND torque. You just have to feed the stroke.
I'm not a gear expert but I will do my best to get them in there. I had good luck in the past just using the same shims. We can do this at the same price. I'm not doing this to make money, I just could not see you paying the price that you were quoted before. Just trying to help out a local forum member and you can work with me and learn at the same time.
Here's the post that I did from when I put 3.55 gears in the Cad-T-Bird http://www.cadillacpower.com/forum/index.php/topic,6531.0.html As you can see I just wing it.
TED
ok thanks! sounds ok to me. where should i buy the 3.73 gears at?
so do you guys think i should get a 331 stroker kit with AFR 185's heads with a comp cam fwnx264hr14 will make 350? what intake manifold should i get? i'll also pick up a pair of roller rockers. would a 3000 stall be ok?
Make a decision on what cam/heads/intake/rear gears you're going to run before you even think about the converter. You'll want to know all this other stuff first so you can make an informed decision as to how much stall speed to go with.
That being said with the combo you have listed above, I assume you mean this cam listed here? http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=35-349-8
Even with 1.7 ratio rockers I doubt you would get the 420-430 flywheel HP needed to get you 350 RWHP. You'd be a tad shy.
Something like this would get you closer. http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=35-302-8
Keep in mind with either one you will need to check PTV and pushrod length.
3000 stall would be OK for the first one. The second? Not so sure.....Might want a little more IMHO.
Also TRANS COOLER!
Wouldn't that first cam (with a 110 lobe separation angle) be a little iffy with even a mass air car? I thought the limit for MA was 112*. Just wondering but are those roller or flat tappet cams?
You're looking at the centerline....The LSA is 114* on the first one.
Get a set of used gears off ebay but make sure they are FoMoCo to make it easy to set up.
3.55 tend to be a bit cheaper. Here's a set for $57 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-55-1-genuine-ford-motor-co-8-8-ring-and-pinion-gears_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQihZ008QQitemZ180175429892QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW on buy it now.
TED
Sounds like a kick a$$ street setup. The Edelbrock Torquer 2 has high dyno runs. Check how it specs at Andersonfordmotorsports. 70-75mm throttle body and a 90mm lightning mass air. 42lb. injectors and a pms standalone running the electronics.
For the transmission, ditch the lockup converter for a nonlock from Precision Industries or Dirtydog they can help with the stall, install a baumann shift kit and a transgo high rev governor. The transmission should be overhauled and modified. Check our clickclickracing.com. Or if you have to have lockup, ditch the aod for a 4r70w with a manual valve body and lock the converter with a 12 volt switch. It's like having another extra gear!
Out back you'll need some drag radials with a 31 spline traction lock differential with 31 spline axles. . You could go with a 4.10 gear if you really want to move it quick. Also you may want to try a narrower Mustang rear end which would allow you to stuff the largest drag radial you can between the fenders. You'll need it especially if you run the juice on top of that combo. :evilgrin:
Keep us posted. Sound like it will be a mean machine :evilgrin: :evilgrin:
Mike
, almost forgot, badbird is selling his 342!!!
That is one bada$$ motor. :evilgrin: :evilgrin: :evilgrin:
If I had the money :( it would have been a done deal. If you want to keep the motor as original, just pull it and install that one. That way the original could be reinstalled or sold as a package.
Don't know how much power he was put'n down but it was good enough for 11.6's in the 1/4, all motor :evilgrin: :evilgrin: All you need is the vehicle weight and it can be calculated to rear wheel hp. Running the 1/4 with the rwhp is better than the dyno anyway imho
If you think you need a person to overhaul your transmission I know a very good guy in Olympia. Excellent work for a very fair price. He only works on transmissions out of the car. If you want his name and number send me an email.
TED
The "Birdman" posted this link today and it shows what you can do with a pretty mild combo and 3.55 gears.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/events/0711phr_nmca_drag_racing_event/1983_ford_thunderbird.html
Why can't you swap to a 351 and still keep the number matching 5.0 in the garage?
One thing you have to worry about in Pierce county is emission testing, what are you going to do here?
TED
how much does bad bird want for his 342? if he sells it for around $3000 i'll snag it!
well, my dad also said he didnt want a bigger motor in it. so if i can keep a 302 block but stoke it, he'll never know!:evilgrin:
CAD, that would be great if you can get me that guys number! send me a PM
for you for the help!
whats the difference between a lock up and a nonlock converter?
i plan on running 3.73 gears. with a 8.8 mustang rear. im also going to buy a set of drag radials.
I believe badbird is asking $2700 for the short block. Remember a short block does not come with heads, but this one is a true short block with an oil pan and cam. Some "short blocks" don't come with either. You would have to come up with more money for the heads he has. Those Canfields are probably some of the best flowing heads from anywhere. Even if you have to use a stone stock set of e7 mustang heads, on that short block it would still be mean. Also remember there is no replacement for displacement when it comes to power especially on the street. What is really killer about his setup is the pistons are fly cut for inline valve cylinder heads or twisted wedge. You can put whatever heads you want on there. If I had the extra cash, no doubt I'd jump on it. Maybe it will still be around next year :hick: Check out the thread in the for sale section on 342 for sale. BTW here is his number
Ron 734-776-5987.
Good luck, I hope you can get it. :evilgrin:
Mike
i have a question
should i just go with a stock HO and run a supercharger on it? im looking at like a vortech s trim.9lbs of boost. and maybe a 75 or a 100 shot of giggle gas?
no ones really mentioned why you ,,quote unquote,, should not get into a 347 kit. Briefly mentioned was that fact that the life of the block will be effected by using the 347 vs the 331.
with the constant rev of a 347, your unavoidable ratio called rod angle will wear the center of each cylinder bore out quicker than a 331 or stock 302 innerds. if you like your block and i know you'll have your foot in the gas, then 347 is good for the person who really doesnt mind coming up with a block and pistons every now and again.
im sorry man,, i just kind of worry about people interested in the 347 kit and not being aware of rod angle.
the 331 is the way to go but engineer this and listen to guys who've had many combos and share their experience. I have very little to share in that department,, but from what i just bought off turbocoupe50 and what im buyin now, i should have a little to offer sooner than later.
well,, you just took care of your top end,, now whatcha gonna do off the line?,,,unless your gonna run the sc full duty like i just whitnessed in a stang down in morganton nc,,, now that thing was just too hard to keep on the road not to mention constant babby sitting of the gas pedal while at stops.
Rod angle is proportional to rod/stroke ratio.
As far as rod/stroke ratio with a 5.4 rod:
331 = 5.4 / 3.25 = 1.662:1
347 = 5.4 / 3.4 = 1.588:1
For the 5.315 rod:
331 = 5.315/3.25 = 1.635:1
347 = 5.315/3.4 = 1.563:1
Many motors come from the factory today with worse rod/stroke ratios. The inline 6-250 has a 1.50 rod/stroke ratio for one.
And as far as DETERMINING HOW MUCH CYLINDER WALL PRESSURE IS APPLIED, read here: http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=127842
The results? The 331 generates 96% of the sidewall pressure that a 347 does.
The formula is here as well.... http://www.hcs.harvard.edu/~jus/0303/kuo.pdf
Knock on wood but I have had my 347 for 8 years and never had any problems and every time I drive it I beat the out of it.But if you are going to add a lot of nos or boost then go with the 331 it will last longer, the 347 is better for more base power.My buddy has 18lbs of boost on his 331 and no problems yet.So it just depends how good you can build your motor.
And
THIS is always the most important part!
Yep, now you're getting to the jist of it.
I've seen poor 306 rebuilds that burn 1 qt. of oil per 200 miles.
The thing about the 347 really isn't the rod ratio at all, it's the short piston!
You've got your regular height piston - I'm using these with my blower (Probe):
(http://www.probeindustries.com/Pistons/images/10682.jpg)
Then you've got your little elfen 347 piston:
(http://www.probeindustries.com/Pistons/images/12352.jpg)
A piston with such a short compression height and short skirt needs to be installed
tight in the bore or it can rock and lead to oil burning and premature wear. This means that you need to buy the pistons, measure them, then have your machinist bore the cylinders so they fit on the tight side of the bore clearance tolerance.
Note, using the rod ratio argument and Chevy 400 argument misses the whole issue of the extremely short piston with the pin so close to the top that rocking is almost inevitable to a certain degree. No matter how you look at it, the 347 with it's short piston will wear more in 100000 miles than a 306.
You can bolt on a Vortech to a good rebuild using forged pistons and make 350, 400, 500 RWHP as you upgrade parts over time. I chose the Kenne Bell which is giving me 415 RWHP & 450 RWTQ from just off idle. The KB is the best thing that could happen to a heavy Fox Coug/Bird as it makes the car feel like a V8 Vega! You just have to have a tire budget :burnout: (I fixed your English BTW)
I agree and was just going to say that....
Get a kenne bell, or another twin screw blower. Instant torque and power, where as the centrifigaul blower needs the motor to rev to spool up the boost and power, in a linear curve.
Problem with the Kenne Bell is the cost and learning curve. The Vortech is less expensive but does have the issue with making little boost down low which can be an issue with our heavy cars. The boost curve is a shallow exponential actually, but saying it's linear is close enough :D
(http://images.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0501_26_z+ford_modular_motor_forced_induction_comparison+boosted_dyno.jpg)
How much shorter is the 347 piston skirt than the 302?
How far off center (if any) if the 347 pin from the vertical center of the piston?
Are pins normally in the "center" of a piston?
Don't know, if you hold two in your hand the difference is obvious. The skirt is only a little shorter, but overall you can't compare to an OEM engine with a similarly low RR. I'm not sure how far they are offset, though I'm sure every trick available is used. Do some research, 331 vs 347 vs 347 with 5.315 rod is one of the most heated debates on the Ford engine building sites. It all boils down to good engine building. period.
I have, extensively, and haven't found a definitive answer. Although I suspect there isn't one. One thing to note is that the stock 302
pistons have a ~1.6 CH. Modern CHs are much lower, down around 1.2"/1.3". So, comparing a stock piston with a 347 piston isn't apples-to-apples.
...except that the engine wasn't originally designed for such a short compression height and you are relying on the expertise of the aftermarket piston vendors to compensate - some are good, some are bad.
And if the design wasn't a compromise, you wouldn't have all the discussion about rod ratio, compression height, skirt rigidity, pin offset, oil ring in the pin hole etc. Why do all the vendors make claims about how their design is better? Why did Probe make a short rod version where the pin is below the oil ring and the CH is higher? Why do even the piston manufacuters argue to no end on places like HC50 if there is nothing to argue about? Trying to "simplify" this for the novice is a fools errand - it's not simple.
Sorry, I know you said you didn't have a definitive answer, just wanted to throw out some more arguments...
The "engine" wasn't designed for it because piston technology hadn't progressed far enough to make shorter CHs reliable. A quality piston with a shorter CH would work fine.
It certainly isn't simple, but when you get down to brass tacks, 347s will work just fine if you use quality parts and quality machining. I think we agree on this point (and on the others too). Those two items are the most important parts of the puzzle.
A 5.315 rod 347 uses the same piston as a 331 with a 1.175" compression height with a 1.59 rod ratio as opposed to the 1.09" compression height used in 5.4" rod equipped 347's with a 1.56 rod ratio. The larger piston is of course going to be heavier, but the wrist pin is moved down and does not intersect the oil ring land which is a bonus as well (although the newer 5.4 kits do not have the oil consumption issues the old ones did). Like everything else it's a trade off. Read a rather lengthy debate on it here: http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,7010.0.html
ok, my father and i are going to the place where im getting my engine rebuilt next week! so what crankshaft, rods and pistons should a get? and what cam? im probably going to have to stay with stock heads and intake for right now.
how much does the KB cost?
Not to be nasty or anything else,BUILD IT.Talk later!
That was a bit nasty.
I'm like forged pistons over hypers. You cannot use nitrous or boost with hypers. I would keep your compression under 10 to one so you can still use pump gas.
I think I would start with a kit like this one. I know nothing about this company and it is only an example. This kit does not tell me what the compression is so I would want to find out this first. And also since I'm into Cadillac engines and not Fords I'm of little use.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-0-302-SMALL-BLOCK-FORD-STROKER-331-347-KIT-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33620QQihZ020QQitemZ300167980355QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Something like this is also temping since it's all ready to go and has lots of quality parts, but no cam for this price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D-D-331-347-STROKER-ENGINE-SBF-FORD-SHORT-BLOCK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33627QQihZ005QQitemZ150178434600QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I think if I was you I would try to find a good rebuildable core and rebuild this so that your car is not down. Also the more you do yourself, the more you save, and the more you learn.
TED
Here's a question for everyone;
Would a 1990 Lincoln Towncar be a good engine and transmission for a core to rebuild for a project like this? I know a guy that has one for sale pretty cheap because the overdrive no longer works and it has a bad freeze plug so it will not hold water. Still a very nice car and runs good. He lives in Fife so he would be close to Quicksilver. If he was energetic he could maybe sell some of the towncar parts on eBay and get some money back.
TED
For the most part, it's standard SO parts. Same block as the rest of the 5.0 rollers.
Okay so I'm confused. How does the 1990 Towncar engine compare to his 1988? Is it worth picking up or should you try to find one from a Mustang to rebuild.
TED
The engine long block is the same. If he's going to replace the pistons anyway it doesn't matter if he starts with a forged piston Mustang/Mark VII HO block or the SO 5.0 block.
haha i would do it my self but my father doesnt trust me.
i have a question for you guys. if you had 4grand to spend on the motor, what would you do with it. i have one week to make my mind up about if i want a stock HO with a supercharger, with a holley intake manifold or get my motor rebuild with a 331 stroker kit, but keep stock heads and intake?
oo and you had to have a shop do ALL the work( because your father doesnt trust you and your father knows nothing about engines, so he would be of no help)
oo and thank you for all your insight and help! i would still be really confused and lost with my car without your guys help, so it is greatly appreciated that you guys take your time and help out a youngster like myself.
I would start with this.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/475115617.html
TED
thats a good start, but thats way to far away.
CAD could you do a engine swap? if so, how much would you want? that way i could learn.
Wait, um, didn't the 5.0 SO start getting forged pistons in . . . I wanna say 1987 or 1988 or so, I can't remember where I read it, though. Maybe coolcats.net but don't hold me to that.
With these 2 options I would opt for the 302Ho S/C dealie-o.
I don't believe you'll get 350 at the rear wheels with a e7/302 even with a Kenne Bell supercharger. It's turbo time :evilgrin: :evilgrin:
The Kenne Bell would blister the tires down low though. :burnout: Slopoke starts chanting Kenne Kenne Kenne!