This has been on my mind... Kind of bugging me...
My car is factory color 1Y (Dark Charcoal Metallic) (http://www.coolcats.net/fox/images/92.gif):
(http://www.coolcats.net/fox/images/84_1y.jpg)
Mine: (http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b325/Aesthetikz/rusty_03.jpg)
And i acquired the car with a "damaged paint job", That really does look like , And i would rather have a solid primer color than how it looks now~Until i can get it painted.
The car has random squares, triangles and various shapes of light grey primer on random areas all over the car...
At first i thought this was to hide rust... But this car has barely any rust problems, let alone in the areas that are primed.... And theres even primered squares on the plastic lower bumper covers.
So im kind of clueless as to why these primered spots are there now, All i know is it looks like ~And has ruined the original paint job.
So at some point here i will be sanding it down, Pulling dents, Hammering out the passenger rear wheel well and prepping it.
I will be sticking with the factory color~Or close to it at least.
I might spice it up with a little more metal flake or something, But that's in the future.
Right now i need to know which color primer would make it "pop" the most and just plain look the best as a primer basecoat and such for the Dark Charcoal Metallic Color.
I don't want to put on black primer or something and end up regretting it after it's painted...
Hey there nice color choice. That is the same color that I've got. Any how you need to head over to a paint store. I know with a Dupont base coat clear coat.They have a value shade. That tells you what color primer to use under the paint. They mix the primer to the value shade number you need. That will make sure you have it right. Hope that helps you out.
Thanks, is that a red'ish TC hood you have on your car? Lol i have the same color TC hood waiting to be put on mine. :hick:
Anyway, I'm looking for primer shade sheets online and cant find any... thats a first...
Basicly im just concerned how the primer color i use will tint the final paint job (which isnt planned any time in the near future).
And even if after finding out the "correct color" if maybe a different one would make the color stand out more than factory.
I may just need to get some dark charcoal paint (or close ot it in a rattle can) and test with various primer colors on s metal...
I really dunno.
I have a strong feeling that factory base was black though.
And i also noticed something when searching for "Dark Charcoal Metallic" paints~They seem to still be using the color or were, However all the examples of the color appear to have a grey/ashy tint to them, Where our foxes have a blue tint to them.
What's the deal with this? Some kind of fading? Or did ford screw up on there documentation or something?
Heres the color examples i'm finding of "Dark Charcoal Metallic"
(http://images.tcpglobal.com/rsp/rsp2104.jpg)
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/746000-746999/746588_5_full.jpg)
The blue in the color is one of the things i really liked about it though. :dunno:
You can't rely on the name of the color. You need to go by the paint code and year. That will narrow it down. In the paint computer at work if I tell it Ford code 1Y it gives me 2 choices. Then once I tell it 84 it gives me only one choice. Then also if you use the Dupont paint it will also tell you the value shade for the primer. I made a touch up bottle of the 1Y paint for my car. Almost a perfect match the touch up was darker than the paint on the car. But with it being an 84 it had to of fadded.
You won't be painting directly over the primer anyway, at least you shouldn't. You will be applying a seal coat over the primer and that's the one you have to choose the color once you have decided your actual final color. With going with the Dupont primer, that will be a great choice. It's a catalyized primer and won't let moisture through it like a laquer based primer will.
Ok, thanks alot guys! I'm very new to painting metals.
Would it be ok if i just primered the car and did not immediatly apply the seal coat? Or would that be a bad idea?
I think it might work better for me if i waited to do the seal coat when i do the actual paint job, Even if i have to do some more prep/sanding work because of dirt and such at that time.
And ipsd~Do you have a picture of the 1Y you had mixed up? Would love to see how it looks fresh and unfaded.
The stuff that I mixed up is a brush on touch up so pics won't do any good. Working on body work for the bird along with the interior. I sticking with the 1Y color. I could scan the paint chip sheet at work. The chips looks awesome. The shine the depth the unfaded color. I would think you would want the seal coat to seal out the moisture. Then you can sand and reseal it before paint. Most non seal primers let the moisture thru. That won't stop it from rusting. Also I was playing with the paint computer at work on the Primer color. The way they come up with the right color primer is they make the color into a gray format like a black and white pic. Then the shade of gray that your color is in that format is the color primer you need. The dupont system only has 5 colors. They are all different shades of gray.
That would be cool, And thanks for the info. :hick:
So then if i use a good primer that keeps moisture out, Would i be fine with not having a seal coat on top of it?
Trying to keep it to 1 layer for now, But not at the cost of damage...
Epoxy Primer looks to be very tough stuff...
Epoxy primer like Euro prime or K2 epoxy primer will not let moisture thru. The old style laquer primer is like a sponge though. Yes, you can seal it also, but that's an extra step you don't need to do yet.
As a side note just to let you know. I've worked in a body shop and then on my own with a friend in his shop for over 21 years now in the the Northwest where it rains 51 weeks out of 52 :hick:. Although I don't live in Wa state or currently work in a shop, I still do body/paint on my own.
John
Use the color primer closest to your final paint color.
Great!
Sounds good, And yea.. The weather/moisture up here is horrid so i wanted to make sure i was putting the right style primer as well as color on.
I need to buy a new compressor :punchballs:, And go down to a paint store and check out what brands they carry as well as color choices under epoxy primer.
**Argh, Need a little bit of help with shopping for an Air Compressor now...
I've only ever used small ones, So im very unsure of what requirements are needed for body work, I heard i may even need a 30gal tank minimum?!
I'll only be doing panels and primer work really, I just dont have a ton of money to throw around is the major problem i guess.
One of the biggest air users is the DA sander, 14 cfm @90 psi, it uses alot of air. You can get away with something close to that. If you want an inexpensive compressor, check out Habor Freight. They have a 29 gal upright that really moves the air for $369. Ya, I know it's Harbor Freight, but they do have a decent warrenty on them. I'm getting one myself.
On another note, look in the little papers ( Nickle Ads, I believe) and look for a good used one that has a large cfm rating. You need that for quicker recovery times. Especialy if you have a friend over to help :D
Hope that helps. Good luck with your project :D and get some pics :evilgrin:
John
That price makes my wallet want to cry... :toilet:
Isn't there something in the $200 range that would work well?
Whats the minimum gal/cfm i should get for spraying epoxy primer and/or sanding?
Yea, I was going to check out Harbour Freight, Bit of along drive but it's usually worth it.
**I found a listing for a "1/2 hsp electric motor bulky" air compressor in my city for free! I've e-mailed for details. *Bites Fingernails*
You should be able to get away with using a slightly smaller compressor. I wouldn't go below a 3hp though. Don't even waste your time with that 1/2hp. It might do ok to inflate bike tires, but not for what you need to do. I have a 3hp oil-less compressor and it's all it can do to keep up with itself, let alone run my da (dual action) sander.
John
Well i've been looking around locally for the best compressor in the $200 range, As well as checking classifieds with no success.
And this one has the best specs for the price so far:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90234
Would this work well enough for spray work and maybe some sanding as well? Or is this is product/brand just too overall cheap?
I found out it's going to be on sale for black friday as well, Which peaks my interest even more.
http://bfads.net/Central-Pneumatic-4hp-10-gallon-compressor-at-Harbor-Freight-2006
It might work. It would probably take you a while to use a da sander though. Probably not as long as mine POS. That compressor pump looks to be about 2 times as big as the I have. A dual action sander uses around 14 CFM @ 90 psi, but I don't ever run mine that high. Err that is when I had a compressor that could put out the air. 23 CFM @ 155 psi. The thing was just WAAAYYY to big to move it out of the shop it was in (Chehalis Wa).
If it ever goes on sale for $350. The 29 gal upright they (Harbor Freight) have would be the ticket. You wouldn't have to worry at all and could even have a buddy helping without worrying about running out of air. The main thing to look/ask for is "Recovery" time of any given compressor. Good luck searching and hope you find/get something that'll work good for you.
John
yea i was interested in that 29 gal even though it was a bit higher in price, But it says at the bottom it's for 220 volt applications. :punchballs:
I'm actually kind of surprised in the lack of selection of stronger compressors at harbor freight that dont cost 1000+ dollars...
I'll keep looking around, I'm gonna head into sears today and see if they have anything nice on sale.
Oh yaaaa, I forgot that tid bit of info
. Sorry. :hick:
well i went into sears, A Large selection of craftsman compressors in various sizes~but mostly in the 1-2hp range...
And on there biggest unit (60gal 3.2hp "pro") the cfm at 90 wasnt even 10... Am i missing something here? or are craftsman units really wimpy?
They had a 17gal 1.1hp 150psi craftsman on clearance for $175, cfm at 90 was 3.8 though...
You have got to pay attention to the CFM, and I swear they never put out what they advertise. I would consider the HF $369 the bare minimum for anything, and way too small for most things except painting.
If the compressor has to run constantly to operate an air tool, you might as well buy an electric tool. I have a 5hp, 80gallon compressor, and when I am porting heads and carburetor main bodies, it can't keep up with my die grinders. A D/A sander will use a lot of air too, but not like a grinder or impact wrench. If I was doing more work, I would update to a 7+hp 25cfm unit.
No, those Sears units won't work for you. More than likely you will need to get something that is 220volts.
I almost bought a 5hp/220v 80gl upright that pushed 23cfm @135 psi, (that's what the cutoff was set at) but it was sold out from under me. I gave the guy half down and wasn't able to get a trailer that day and somebody with a p/u came and took it before I could get back. At least I got my money back. The guys wife didn't know it was sold and he "claims" he wasn't home.
Anyway, my point is, you don't need a large hp motor to get the CFM require, you need one with a 2 stage compressor pump. My y compressor will at least run my 1/2" impact but not my DA.
All pressure and little CFM make for long work times with little accomplished. Whatever commpressor you get needs to be able to recover faster than what you use. That's what's called "Recovery Time". Here's a couple of pics of the compressor that almost was. :beatyoass:
Wow, That is a monster.
Sorry to hear it turned out like that... Very lame.
Yea, Ill stay away from the craftsmen compressors~I heard from someone else they make good ones, But i'm not impressed with the specs at all...
I need to hit up a few local puppies shops next, Hopefully i'll score something nice. :hick:
Ya, it was a monster. You, me and someone else could use that thing at the same time without it ever breaking a sweat. Good luck and hope you find something soon. I can't wait till I can get a better one also. I just need to get rid of some unused extra parts that I have laying around.
John
Well i've been shopping around, Nothing great so far.
Had a couple more newb questions though...
To get the desired SCFM, It's looking like i either need to spend ALOT of money, or go 60gal or more...
Am i missing something on this spec? Like when you say DA (Dual Action?) Does that mean you would be able to run 2 lines from 1 compressor and get more CFM rating out of it?
When i look at some of these paint sprayers and Orbitals, They require 14-16cfm@90PSI sometimes, And even in the huge compressors, they dont let out that much @ 90psi...
And this 220volt just keeps looking better and better to me:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92504
But... We have an old house (1960's) and im unsure if this would require some special wiring? or if our wiring would even be able to support it?
I assume its just something like wiring 2 110v connections together into one 220volt receptacle?
Havent asked my dad yet either.
Or maybe even just buy some type of converter to run it?
**Found this on ebay, 3000watts should be enough to run at about 15 Amps right? enough to run the compressor (on low?), But whats with the 23.5 amp rating?... And also Not sure if the plug style would match the compressor but i could slap on a regular style hospital grade plug.
overall it would be alot easier than wiring for 220volt, this house... is... oddly wired.
Anyway, My search continues.
I won't go into "Weird House Wiring" as my house was built in to 1920's and has been rewired by someone who should've never touch a single wire let alone a whole house :( It's not as easy as connecting 2 110 volt circuits together. You need a dual 35 amp circiut breaker in your panel box to get the 220. But there are other things that need to be done also. Definitely ask your dad for help on the electrical work.
The DA I'm refering to is a Dual Action orbital sander, that means that while going in circles, it also goes back and forth.
No, hooking up 2 lines to a compressor will not increase the CFM output. Converters were not made to handle the requirements of a compressor. There is alot of "start up" or initial voltage used when the compressor fisrt starts. My lights in the house flicker slightly when my compressor starts. That's usual, well for my house anyway.
The way most compressors are sold, yes, it seems that you have to get big tanks. There are compressors made that don't have big tanks and put out big CFM too. At my old job, we had a compressor setup on a motorized cart for outdoor use that had a a CFM rating of 25 CFM @ 90psi and it only had 2 2 1/2 gal tanks, like the ones you see used for roofing or finish nailing. Anyway, like I said before, you don't need a big tank for the CFM you require. If you hook up 2 lines from the same compressor, you only use more air at a little lower CFM and a little less pressure. Sorry. If you don't find any 110 volt compressors that will work, then I would definitley recommend the HBF 29gl compressor. It will do what ever you need and then some. I'm saving for one now. Good luck :D
Thanks for all the answers and putting up with all my questions. :hick:
haven't taked to dad yet about the wiring.
But near where the compressor will be, There is 2 (actually 3, But i don't want to mess with the water heater)
220volt outlets... Both are in use of course, But doing some reading it may be possible and the most effective way to run that HBF compressor.
Outlet 1 is for the Dryer, And outlet 2 is for the downstairs stove/oven which we rarely use.
Obviously it would probably not be safe to run 2 items at the same time off one outlet, But plugging and unplugging the compressor and other item is better than a wimpy/no compressor at all. :D
The length of cord to the carport would not be anymore than 15 feet, However it may take awhile to find some end plugs for the compressor that fit into the 220v outlet... (very old and odd shaped 3 pin plugs)
I can actually get a voltage regulator on ebay for 5000watt, still may not be enough though (25ax220v=5500watts, And adds another 100+ to the cost. :mad:
I'll talk to dad, And hopefully we can work something out.
That HBF is insanley good for that price compared to all the compressors ive looked at recently... :hick:
No problem with all the questions :) Glad to help
Yes it's a good compressor for that price. I would draw the way the plug is on that odd outlet and go to an elctrical shop and they can help you. Don't go to an home improvement store, although they may have one as well, I kind of doubt it. Unplugging/plugging between the compressor and your down stairs oven sounds to be the better route to go also. Good luck and have fun.