Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Perhaps some of you have read of my escapades WRT changing my front end. It was all set into motion when I blew another power steering pump a couple of weeks ago. The bearing broke in the pump and filled the system with ground up metal. I figured it was time to put in a new pump, rack and find that larger PS pulley that I had heard about. OK, I did that. In the process I had to separate the tie-rods and at some point I fugured I should use this as an opportunity to throw on the M-3075-D control arms that I had laying around along with the 11" brake upgade that I figured I do at the same time (while I'm in there). SO after tightening up the rack for a test fit, I then loostened the a-arm nuts and gave each one a whack to "see it they will move". One didn't and that is a whole thread onto itself. After numerous hours grinding and cutting the bolt and then fighting the spring compressor, I got the first arm in. I then went to do the other side which I knew would be easy - except that I found the spring on the other side had a broken coil - doh!  Basically one complete coil is missing. I cleaned up the end of the spring with a grinder and assembled it.


Look at the pictures below - one side is the (unintentionally) lowered side, the other is the side with the normal uncut spring. Now, here is the poll question (finally, you thought I'd never get around to it!):

Should I cut the spring on the other side to match - thus lowering my car the amount shown (and it looks like I'll have some bump steer based on the angle of steering rod), or should I get new stock springs and set it back to original height?

OEM Height:

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1198.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1199.jpg)

NEW height:

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1194.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1196.jpg)

Decide for me quick because driving around like this may get to be annoying :hick:

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1201.jpg)

LOWER IT!!! It LOOKS MEAN!!!

lower the rear also

I was think of that. I have the CHE adjustables and they lift the rear a little which compensated for some sag and lets me run 28" tires. I have kind of a dillema here as I need to be able to fit the 28", 11.2" cross section tires on there.

Depending on the severity of the tie rod angles.  It doesn't take much to throw the angles off.  My 88's are horribly uphill.

lower it!  I did mine and it was a big improvement.

Lower it.I'm going to lower the front of mine by an inch.It sits high like yours does.

Another vote for lowering. I think the new ride height looks much better. I think you nailed it. It doesnt look too low in the front in relation to the stock height in the rear. I did the same thing on my 87. I ended up cutting off one full coil off the fronts and leaving the rear stock.

Well, this is what I expected and I'm glad everyone so far agrees that it looks better lowered. A side benefit is that I can get the spring in without a spring compressor :) Since I grew up with cars slightly angled downward (air shocks in my GTO - lol), I can live with the rear a little higher. I may go with 27" or 28" street tires in the rear too which will make the gap above the tire about equal. Or I might eventually get some slick 18" wheels and use a 27" tire in the rear with a 26" in the front...

(chanting) Lower it! Lower it! Lower it! :welder:  :welder:

lower it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

should be no problem

And of course, lower it.

I would get some c/c plates and fix that tire wear!

I might consider it, though I lost the -2 degrees of camber I previously had (not sure why) which had to be effecting tire wear somewhat.

Definitely lower it, it looks a lot better ;)

OK, I cut the other spring. Looks good though the car is still higher on the passenger side by 1/2" :(

Also, the drivers side tire ishiznitting the wheel well - 3 times already.

I tried turning one of the rear springs 1/2 turn but it just made it worse.

I think I will need to get a bump-steer kit, though the tire easily hitting the wheel well is my first concern.

Any suggestions?

OK, the spring rate of stock springs is too low when they are cut. I am hitting the fender with the tire regularly now. I realized after doing some research that a lowered car needs a higher spring-rate to keep the tires/front-end from bottoming out. I think the recommendation of at least 600lb/in rate for a lowered car is about right. I found a used set of Mach 1 springs (600 lb/in) for a good price so I'm going to use these. These should lower the car about 3/4" to start and I will cut the coils to get the exact height I want. The Mach 1 & Bullitt springs look like a good deal for our cars IMHO. See the "Spring rate and drop" table I recently posted in Suspension for more info on springs.

The lowered car actually could make a case that it doesn't need a ground effects kit now.  I would actually raise it just a tad.

OK, I got the Mach1 springs today and installed them immediately (took only an hour - I am an expert at this by now - lol).

BEFORE:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1198.jpg)
AFTER:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1242.jpg)

BEFORE:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1199.jpg)
AFTER - the drop is about 1" - 1 1/4" :
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1243.jpg)

I also measured the springs before installing them - this is the Mach1 spring versus the OEM spring WITH ONE COIL REMOVED!

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1238.jpg)

As you can see, the OEM spring is about 15-15 1/2" long before cutting, the Mach1 spring is about 13" long. The difference is in the spring rate.

Oh, the ride is so far very nice. I am NOT bottoming out AT ALL now even though my street is being paved and is bumpy gravel. Also, I did not change the struts, but the replacement Gabriels that I have were always punishing - I remember getting them cheaper as the guy at NAPA said they had re-valved them in the newer model. All I can say is, they were too stiff before and now they work well with these new higher rate springs - my bumpy gravel road hardly felt bumpy at all after adding these springs which is a good sign.

Those look a bit higher than the first go around.  It looks better.

Good info, I'm about to the process of Installing my 99' GT springs

Looks mean as hell!!

I will provide updates going forward, but so far based on first impressions, I will state that I believe that the Bullitt/Mach1 front springs (nearly identical) are a win-win fit for our cars. They lower the car just enough to get decent improvement in center-of-gravity without going overboard and yet they provide the increased spring rate that is needed when you lower the car to keep the fenders off of the tires. I am very happy with this mod!

Let us know how the '99 GT springs work out!

Will do, but I have some other things I need to get fixed first(frame rail) and then I'll let you know.  I'm also going to install some 03' GT struts