OK, I am finally getting around to putting these control arms in. Basically, I am replacing the whole setup (control arm/spindle) at once. I am just wondering if there is any other approach to the problem of the shorter ball joint than just machining the spindle mount thinner?
Here is the spindle sitting on the control arm:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1118.jpg)
Should I just continue with the fly-cutting until I can get a good amount of the bolt through the locking part at the top of the nut?
Switch to sn95 ball joints?
No, he needs to switch to Fox ball joints.....or yes, continue to machine the spindle down.
Thanks for that post - I didn't see that one when I searched. Have you got any comment of your own? I'm interested in any advice.
I was reasonably sure you couldn't (safely) put a SN95 ball joint on a Fox spindle. A better response from 04FordHarleyF250 would convince me otherwise.
You can't. Not without some mods to the spindle. The SN-95 ball joint shanks are too short.
Right. The taper seems to engage properly - just compressing the seal-ring a small amount - but the top of the spindle needs to be cut about 1/4" to expose a couple of threads above the nut when assembled. If you do not do this, you will have the nut back-off - as happened to a couple of folks here IIRC. I guess there is no simpler way - it's just a bear to chuck this thing in the mill and I have to sharpen the cutter I was using - otherwise it's not a bad job.
I give up - it's just too difficult to chuck this stupid spindle. I also noticed a nice little area where it looks like the bearing dug into the axle just enough to feel. There is a bit of copper color there too. I guess the spindles etc were just one big rip-off as I bought them from somebody here who PM'd me (I don't even remember at this point).
What's the deal with SN95 spindles and 4-lug 11" brakes anyway?
Are you talking about modifying SN-95 Brakes to the 4-Lug pattern?
Not sure what the choices are - I already have some nice 11" rotors though...
I would just replace the balljoints. Sucks, but it's the simplest solution.
Your only choice if you want to use those arms with the Fox spindles is to install Fox ball joints.
You can use SN-95 spindles on Fox ball-joints (with a spacer under the nut), but you can't do the opposite (Fox spindles on SN-95 ball joints).
Sorry.
Well, I decided that they don't keep me at work after shipping all the rest of the engineering to China because I give up easily. I realized a couple of things about the geometry of the spindle that allowed me to chuck it up and machine it failry easily. (Well, I also had to be willing to use features of the mill than I normally wouldn't).
The tierod mount is aligned in the x-axis and the ball-joint angle is -15 degrees (figured the American engineers would use a "standard" angle).
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1120.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1121.jpg)
With the auto-feed on the x-axis with this new mill I just got, this job is now a matter of machining time. I have never tilted the head back on a mill like this before, so it was an interesting experience for me :D
Did you get these mounted yet?
welcome to a whole new world of machining and moddin your parts! :hick:
is that a milport? the conrtols and adjustments look very similar to the milport 2-S i use at work.
This one is a Frejoth/Acra AM-2S that I took from work after our office was shut-down. I also have a old (late '70's) Brideport "J-Head" mill with a 9"x32" table (nice and compact), but I am going to sell it now that I have this new (1999) mill - even though the new one is "Made in Taiwan" - lol.
Not mounted yet, but the only issue holding me up is the one bolt on the control arm that I haven't been able to remove yet. Here is the assembly after machining 0.100" off of the spindle - the ball joint bolt will now show a thread or two above the locknut:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1173.jpg)
OK, I got the arms mounted finally (a whole 'nother thread). I've got the pictures to prove it!
Old and new arms side by side:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1183.jpg)
Here is the mounted ball joint with the ball-joint bolt showing after machining 0.10" from the mounting surface (can see in pic). The threads are fully engaged with the plastic in the locknut:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1184.jpg)
The new 11" rotors are sweet - with the Hawk pads it feels like an airplane in full reverse thrust on landing when I hit the brakes - I am very happy with the braking now!
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1189.jpg)
Here is a shot of the completed job showing the stainless brake lines too:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/DSCF1190.jpg)
This job sucked due to the frozen a-arm bolt - if it wasn't for the frozen bolt it wouldn't have been so bad. I haven't got it aligned yet and one spring is shorter that the other so it is wandering a bit. The steering is extremely twitchy at this point with new steering rack, tie-rods and a-arms. Gotta cut the other spring and get it aligned and I should be a happy camper. :D