Does anyone have a good technique for removing these bushings from the rear? Might are shot and I think they might have helped to screw up mu MM lower control arms (created egging in the sway bar holes).
a hammer and you can knock them right out of the rear
If you want to keep the shells in place, just run a 3/8" drill bit through the rubber in a few places and they will fall apart. I did that and put in poly bushings.
On another note, I have a 8.8 housing and TC brakes if you want it real real cheap. Don't have a center or gears, but I have 2 stock axles that I didn't get the chance to break.
you can also heat the rubber up (tin around the rubber) with a torch and it comes right out with a hammer, but watch out that you don't burn your car up or get melted rubber on you. This trick works a lot better when the rear is out of the car.
TED
I'd just buy the tool. (http://"http://www.maximummotorsports.com/index.html?http&&&www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_99&products_id=190")
Doug, I'm looking for the the axles and the brake for my 86 TC. Also, I'm keeping stock bushings and not going to poly's in the upper rear. I'm also looking at buying the tool from MM for the bushings.
I just went to work and grabbed the Ball joint press loaner tool. It is a huge C clamp for pressing ball joints in and out. Worked great. It comes with all sorts of rings for different sized items. Set it up into place and then put the impact on it. The bushings will come right out. I used this method for all my bushings. I did have to make some spacers so I didn't squish the front arms.
I just use an air chisel and put it on the and the whole bushing just walks right out.
After seeing what the "tool" looked like, I just borrowed from work a big enough socket to fit around the end, used strongest grade n' long enough bolts & nuts (had a selection of different lengths), and thick washers for the other end. WD40 and wrenched it out so it would cup into the socket. Worked great and no tool purchase. To install, I used large flat washers on both end and narrow end to draw it flush with the yolk, then a pipe wrench jaw worked well as a spacer in between washers and yolk since not enough room for socket (cup) in between pumpkin and yolk. Sorry no pictures or diagram. Just look at MM tool picture for ideas and improvise with what you've got.
Maximum Motorsport sell the tool. Part number MM-1, it sell
for $39.95
I just used the Ball joint Press thing you rent. It is a big C-clamp tool. Hooked it up to the impact and it came out like butter.