I don't have the codes, I'm just looking for preliminary ideas until i can get my car to the shop...
The car started running poorly a week ago, random misfiring and it would then just snap out of it. Yesterday, it was no longer snapping out of it, it continually misfires now. I replaced almost everything in or on the distributor less than a year ago including the tfi, pickup, cap, rotor. The tps tested fine so I've about run out of things to test.
It takes about 15 mins to run codes..... without at least that preliminary info you're just guessing.
Just park in a dark place and see if its arcing from the boot to someplace else that it shouldn't be.
But like Chuck said Its just guessing until you run the codes.
plug wires?
Bad plug?
It is possible you've had a plug wire come loose...check those and run codes.
That was my first thought, I replaced all the plug wires, it ran fine for awhile. Maybe just a bad plug then... It probably wouldn't hurt to change them anyway. I'll check back when I get the codes, hopefully I can get her somewhere to get the computer hooked up.
If you go to advance auto, they have Ford code scanners for pretty cheap. I'm moving down the 10th so I could give you a hand if it isn't fixed by then.
Office Depot sells Ford code scanners too, by the box of 100. They call 'em paper clips though. A paper clip works great between the STI connector and the DCL. Rigid enough it won't fall out. Then, sit in the seat and count the blinks from the CEL. You don't need any fancy code scanners unless you're missing some fingers and can't count to 9.
Check out www.fordfuelinjection.com (http://"http://www.fordfuelinjection.com"). Good info there. Next, get a Haynes manual for the 84-88 model, and another for the 89-94 model. 84-88 Haynes doesn't have any info on the EEC-IV as does the 89-94, but will have other info more specific to your model. My son recently bought a 90, and on my recommendation the first repair tool he bought was the Haynes manual. I found photos that were identical to the ones from my 84-88 Haynes, especially in the engine rebuild sections. The big difference is that by the release of the 89 up manual, EEC-IV was no longer "Top Secret -- I'll have to kill you if I tell you" information. There was never a reprint of the 84-88 model manual that I know of. Trust me, I've looked.
I got lazy and Bought a ford code scanner at Schucks. (Kragen/Parts Express)
haven't been out to use it yet as i've been very busy~But it cost $30 and comes with a complete manual and batteries.
In store it costs 39.99 though, But if you bring a print out from the web site for the 29.99 price, They will match it.
If anyone needs any codes looked up, Let me know. :hick:
run some carb cleaner along the cfi base plate and see if that changes engine speed. the two cfi gaskets should be replaced if they have not been recently.
there is a gold fitting on the rear of the cfi that has a vac line. run a hooked wire up in there and see if you pull out any black stuff. if you do,, then you gotta do the cfi cleaning in my diy link.
its easy to do but if you have carbon buildup, the egr should be wacked out. likely you will have egr codes if there is carbon.
I finally figured out the code reader I bought and have come up with a code 23 and 54. Does this mean I need to replace the sensors they refer to?
After picking up a new ACT sensor, I got it home and installed it only to find that the harness did not connect properly. The socket is a mirror image of what the new sensor connection should be. Only after a return trip to the parts place, I found out that all the sensors that would even come close to being the right part were all keyed BACKWARDS. Not one of the alternate part numbers would work... So I moved on to the next store, thinking maybe these guys didn't know what they were looking for. Unfortuneately, the second store was more of the same. In the process of breaking loose the ACT, I managed to bash the wrench on my coolant temp sender and broke that. Get this - the replacement for the coolant sensor was also keyed backwards. has this happened to anyone else or do I just have a factory freak?
do you mean "threaded backwards"
or the plasic connector is shaped that puts the key way backwards?
also,
what about the CFI gaskets.
A bad ACT will cause a py run as well.
The CFI gaskets are new.
The plug is keyed backwards so it won't plug in like it is supposed to. The coolant sensor was also backwards. The engine that is currently installed is from an 84 mustang and none of the sensors were swapped over from my stock engine. So that would mean the plugs were all the same from at least 84 to 87. I honestly think the aftermarket parts manufacturers are casting the connectors incorrectly.
I pocketed a few extra Coolant temp sensors from the junkyard. One came off a TBI bird and it was keyed differently from my car (88 5.0). Try a different year?
When i swapped my other car over to a real oil sender I made them bring about 5 different years out onto a table until i found the one that fit and was a real sender (not a switch in a can).
It took me a minute, but I think I figured out your problem.
I believe the ACT and ECT sensor harness connectors are mirror images of each other. From your description, it sounds like you have an ACT sensor in the ECT location, and an ECT sensor in the ACT location. The design of the ACT/ECT was the same from the early 80s to the mid 90s. The ACT should have an open element thermistor. The ECT should have a closed element.
ECT (Pointy part to the right of the twin tabs)
(http://info.rockauto.com/Motorcraft/DY681.jpg)
ACT (Pointy part to the left of the twin tabs)
(http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/AX3_TERMINAL.jpg)
I thought that may have been the case as well, but even the ECT was keyed backwards. I took both sensors to the parts store and the oem parts did not match the aftermarket. The ACT has an exposed resistor, the coolant sensor does not. There was no mistaking that. Check out the attached picture of my orginial ACT. It's reversed of the picture you posted.
That's weird.
The ACT/ECT that I linked to in my previous post are how they're supposed to look like. My '85/'87 3.8s are the same.
What color wires are running to your ACT/ECT?
that act has a tear drop thermistor which 'should" read about 50kohms cold. Its nothing more than a thermal couple.
I was holding one in my hand today,,, thought about this thread to.
As for the ECT, all the ECT's ive seen were not pointed. They are just a brass cyliner shape. I saw the pic today of the ECT pointed end and wonder about this myself.
Ill be buying both tomorrow anyway and ill find out if there are any issues with the 5.0 or not as a comparrison.
your not the only one, someone recently had problems just like you getting the correct type ECT becaues the connector was wrong. that thread is about a month old in electrical tech i think.
I pulled my ACT last night out of a spare engine. Tab pointing up, the shoulder sticks to the left side. So i checked the one in the car and its the same.
My advice, cut a pigtail from the junkyard.