I guess I need a new servo motor. I checked the steering wheel rings and the contacts that ride on them, with a multimeter using the "beep" continuity setting and they're all good. I don't have vacuum leaks, so I'm assuming the servo went dead, because the cruise control does nothing at all, and has since my dad bought the car (I think it failed shortly after he got it, didnt get erratic or try to kill him a la that other thread or anything it just stopped working altogether.
What other cars/years interchange? Or is it only 87-88 Cougars/Tbirds? Anyone got one by any chance?
Later
I've got one from an 85 bird if your interested.
It will work on a 87/88?
If so how much for it? Condition/pics just to be sure? Thx
You'll probably need one from an '86 to '88.It'll have the cable connected to it that connects to the throttle cable bracket.
Cables are interchangeable, at least on the '87-'88... I still have the orig 2.3 servo with a 5.0 cable...
Also the amplifier could be the problem... Little box on the firewall at the top of your left toes...
Amplifier huh? So thats inside the car then? How can I test it? If not can I buy one from a Ford/Merc dealer? How much do they run?
i think this will be helpful
:D and more,,,,, :D
and more pages,,,:D :D
sheesh i wish i knew how to upload all these pics on one post. never figured out how ther people get more than three per post..
and more.......
hour and a half later,,,,after i scanned,,,,,,,,,
man this sux being on dial up
:D finally the last page:D
The EVTM has info as well, someone else cao post that:D
anyone notice the reference made to AC voltage on page 8?
interesting.
UHHH I scanned down the thread to quickly, got dizzy and fell outt the chair.... :crazy:
huuu????:confused:
i missed something:D
OH. MY. GOD. Wow yeah I think that MIGHT have enough info on the cruise control system!!! You're friggin nuts. Thanks!
BTW, youre attaching them to the forum, you have to host em somewhere else online and link to them with IMG code and then you can have as many as you want in a single post :D
btw, there's a TSB out about the cruise on my 83 (it might extend to all the foxes) that the servo was deteriorating because it wasn't protected enough from the elements.... they remedied this by putting a rubber boot around the servo housing..... my cruise was iffy before i did the 91 ho swap so i used the servo from that motor to run my cruise, and voila, after a few splices (8 to be exact because i was still using the 83 harness on a 91 servo) my cruise works like a charm.... and it had that boot installed too..... so i hope that's your problem too
well i think im gonna have to pick a day sometime soon that I got nothing planned on and just sit and churn through all those tests until I find the problem. If its not actually the servo and I end up finding that out that would be nice so I'm not just gonna go ahead and replace that immediately.
our cars should have a rubber cover,, mine does.
As for my being nuts,, well,,,, lets just say that now the info is in soft copy where as before it wasnt.
I read the troubleshooting and its pretty cut and dry,there are a few steps in there you best read twice cause they are tricky.
All those white pages seemed like dragging my chin across a picket fence when I scanned down...
BTW... Nice job on scanning and posting the info... Prob should be a sticky, with links to the pages...
Tom
well,, i have about a 8'' high stack of manuals. The pages are about as thick as tissue paper and just about as sturdy. This is why you can actually read the next pages info on each scan.
ive been wanting to scan the manuals,, but i figure ill do it one question at a time,, like next go around if someone asks something ill prob scan that section.
I need to get with my ISP,, they say i have web space i can use but have yet to explain how i do it or provide the links / instructions on what all to do. i would like to link this stuff but oh well.
I'd just use Imageshack or Photobucket or something similar, there's a ton of em out there.
i did the "control switches test"
all of the resistance tests came up way out of range, mostly way higher than they should have been. the coast button made no change to the reading at all, which was sitting at like 540 ohms. rotating the steering wheel made it change back and forth a LOT. while holding the off button, one point in the rotation did make it drop to like 10 ohms but nowhere near "between 1 and 0 ohms"
i had tried to clean the rings before, with a cotton swab, though they looked pretty clean as is. not a lot of space, tough to get in there.
the one voltage test came up about 10 volts with the on button pushed, and rotating the wheel made it at a couple points come to like 11 volts but no higher.
any conclusions that can be made from this? should i try to clean the rings again?
UPDATE-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
tried the servo test just for the heck of it (144 to pos 146 to gnd 145 momentarily to gnd), saw a small spark when i touched 145 to gnd, but no engine speed increase. instructions were unclear so i tried this with the connector out of, and in the amplifier. both the same. (6 pin connector was in the whole time though dunno if that makes a diff)
kind of annoying, partly due to ridiculous heat today, let me know what you all think about these results then ill do more testing.... blegh!!!!
waaaah anybody got any ideas? lol
ill hope i can follow through and promise you i will look at this tomorrow,, i have a lot of work stuff going on but i will make time.
actually ,, the way i read it,,,,,,,, page 37-05-9
"separate the 8 pin connector at the amplifier" means disconnect it.
also,,
"start the engine with the servo motor disconnected" means disconnnect the conector as well.
having said this,,,,,,,, did the system pass the resistance checks as perscribed in the initial test? Those resistance numbers are reading back through a circuit you probably already know of so let us know.
!!! somehow managed to miss the reply!!!
the resistance tests were all way out of range as i mentioned, but I wanted to do the servo test anyway just for the hell of it.
ill try it again with your suggestions tomorrow.
I tested it today with BOTH connectors removed from the amp. I got the same results, so engine speed increase. After I shut the engine off I tried it to listen for anything important and sure enough, there was a tap/click from the servo (I removed the splashguard today), like tapping a screwdriver on hard thick plastic, when 145 was connected to ground.
One thing I noticed with the guard removed, was that there was a vacuum hose going from the back of the servo to a oval rubber grommet (NOT the one leading into the engine bay this one went straight back, and the hood release cable was in this grommet too). And, two inches from where the hose went into the grommet, it was bent at a 90 deg angle! So, I replaced it with some new hose. Didnt make any difference but it aint supposed to be like that! So that wasnt a waste or anything.
One thing that was interesting was after doing the test with the engine running, I shut it off, then, when I went to remove the wire I had going from 144 to the pos. terminal on the battery, when I did I heard a mild air rushing/sucking noise from the servo. I have no idea what this means. Is my servo bad?
It seems like there are problems with the buttons/slip rings. How can I clean them up or whatever I have to do? They are hard to get to. Should I remove the steering wheel?
I'll do that too, but if the servo is bad too I want to know so I can replace that, get the splashguard fully fastened back in place and not have to go in there anymore.
Thanks for everything so far!
dood, im gonna tell you something,, your covering uncharted ground here. I only found the info,, if you find anything out then its all on you.
like landing on the moon, your the first i can ever remember fiddling with the cruise in this amount of detail.
For the slip ring test,, someones already did all the work for you,, check out that diy link above my sig,, lots of hands on detail of how one guy fixed his.
Cruise control slip ring test
other associated possible faults are the horn relay or the fuse
test the slip rings..............
jack up the front end of your car (both wheels)
unplug the eec from pass kick panel (this allows the entire harness to be checked)
set meter to ohms
prob the harness for pins ..
50- feeder to all contacts normally open
39- ground side of all contacts normally open
rotate the steering wheel while you actuate the following switches for the
below ohm value. (+- 5%)
off - 0 to 4 ohms
Resume-2200 ohms
Accel -680 ohms
Coast -120 ohms
if values fluxuate while steering is rotated, relub contacts with conductive compound,
observe wear marks and bend or tweek them as needed then retest.
***At the stearing column check only***
If you wish to just check the slip rings themselves,, locate connector C113
behind stearing column.
find a connector with the following colors
light blue/black- cruise feed , (same as eec pin 50)
black- cruise ground (same as eec pin 39)
*****the 1987 evtm says the above wire is black but my 1987 suppliment manual
calls the above wire to be orange.
yellow/light green- horn
insert your ohm meter leads into the the light blue/black and the black wire
check for the same resistance values. if values are much better or greatly improved,
your wiring harness to the eec has damage or above normal resistance.