im getting my timing bumped friday and i was wondering what i should bump it to?
whatever it will go up to without pinging
well, im having a shop do it and i want to know the excact number so i can just tell them so it is cheaper (less manual labor)
so your asking us to tell you what to tell them so it sounds like you know what your talking about? LOL! use that money and buy a timing light to do it yourself. its easy to do. even YOU could do it. ;)
not one car is the same, and you could have them set it, and it'll ping and run like shiznit. then you would have to take it back.
well, im getting underdrive pulleys and a new fan clutch installed and they said that they will bump the timing for free if i tell them the number of degress i want it at. but if they have to play around with it they will charge me more.
its a 2 minute job no matter what they set it too, all they have to do is move it a degree at a time and rev it and listen for a ping, then back it off a degree.
A better way is to bump it ahead two degrees at a time and take a test run, when you get to a point where it pings under load, back the imming off 2*
depends on what quality of fuel you run. I like em up near 14* base but it will probly be 93 octane territory
Buy a timing light for ~$50 and do it yourself. It's stupid easy.
why buy a timing light when i could have someone else do it for free?!?! i run 93. and i want to get max performance, so 14 degress?
Give up guys, this guy would rather pay someone to turn a wrench a 1/4 turn and twist the distributor.
haha its free!!!
14 degrees would be a start, but no car response exactly the same way. you'll wind up bringin it back. that's why i said do it yourself. if you have the money to pay someone to change out pulleys, you have it to buy a timing light and a 1/2" wrench.
I guess I can see getting the UDP's installed, but if you have to take it back for the timing, then your money is better spent on a light. If it runs great once they're done with it, then great.
I'm not saying I would do it. I have all the proper tools & knowledge. I have no trouble pulling a harmonic balancer pulley, but some folks might find it daunting. I dunno... it's his money I guess.
uh, it just unbolts with 4 bolts.
FWIW, an underdrive pulley on a stock alternator is a BAD idea. unless you have a 3G alternator.
Oh well. Let him find out the hard way. I can see it now.
"WTF, I've gone thru 4 batteries!?!?!?!"
you'll need a new belt, too. and they'll probably charge $40+ for that. plus extra labor to measure for it.
yep, i have the belt too! i got my battery from sears and you can exchange batteries for free, so i dont need to worry but i have been looking for a 3G so i should have one in a week or 2. but thanks for your constuctive critisism!
guys i dont have the time to do this can of stuff yet. with school then football going on i need a car to drive and it would take me awhile because i wouldnt know what to do, so i'll just let a mechanic do it in 1.5 hours when im in school.
wait, i dont have the belt. i didnt mean to say that, i weant to say i need one. does anybody what number belt i need?
UDP's are a bad idea any ways, IMOP, runs the water pump slower, the alt. slower, so if your planing on getting a billion horse power out of changing the timing 4*, than that's not the way to go about it,
What every one is trying to say, and some one has said it, is that every car is different, you can't tell an exact number and it's suppoesed to work, you hae to play around " " with the timing, and find something that works, i a stock motor, won't be the same timing as a high performance motor, and yata yata yata,
The shop should be able to do a " test and tune " sorta thing, but most shops will only set it to stock.
BTW i work for sears, we won't replace your battery after the 3rd time in 12-16 months without sending you off to an elec. specailst
Running the water pump slower increases the time it has to cool in the radiator and increases the time it has for the water to absorb the heat... =)
The problem won't be the battery is bad but just discharged... They'll soon be telling you not to bring it back...
Underdrives are OK, IF you understand the possible pitfalls... The stock alt will NOT provide enough output at idle to keep the battery charged... IF you don't let it idle for more than a few minutes at a time, there shouldn't be a problem... This is basically a non issue with the 3G alt... Its the same deal with the cooling system, watch the temp... I'm bettin it will tend to heat up at idle in hot weather and AC output will also weak at idle... Trust me I speak from experience, I've had the UDs on mine since '99...
As far as the belt, it will probably have to be measured... The specs included with most UDs are for a Mustang... Our cars accessory bracket for the AC compressor & P/S is different vs the Stang so the belts are different to begin with...
With premium 14* timing should be OK... Basically you are wasting money running any higher octane than prevents pinging... I usually just run 89 in mine except in the hottest weather...
Tom
AAAHAH!!
It was you who told me to set the timing to 14* and run 89, I couldn't remember for the life of me.
Once the heads are on, I'm going to do it.
Unless you have a high compression (10:1) engine;)
My t-bird loved 16* of base timing and never pinged on 87 octane(at least it wasn't audible) and it ran even better on 93 when I took it to the track...but running that much timing on regular will cause problems...when I pulled the heads off the 'Bird, cyl #3 had a nice rich green hue to it, but it never let out even a puff of smoke.
If you put a set of aluminum heads on, you'll need to back your timing off a little...same with higher compression ratios.
As everybody else said, every car will want something a little different...I would say to start off with no more than 14* on 93 and go from there.
I'm running 15* right now with my combo using 93 octane.
From all I've seen and heard thats false... They transfer heat quicker so usually you can run more timing than with a comparable iron head...
No, running the pump slower decreases the amount of heat transferred out of the block and radiator.
Time has nothing to do with it.
That does seem to make more sense...Sounds like another dyslexic moment for me.
Well, then just tell them to take it to 14 degrees. That's where I'm at and I like it, so... and heck if it pings... buy a timing light, bump it back incrementally until it doesn't ping anymore and return the darn thing!