My 84 has been bucking when I really get on to it. I checked the codes KOEO= 11 All ok. Then KOEr= 17 lean or rich did say witch. SO I check the Fuel pressure 39psi with the hose of. I install a new TPS and set it to .97 The timing is dead on 10* BTDC. While I install a new dimmer I also put in a new ignition switch just incase that might have had something to do with it. Still nothing it bucks anytime I give it more that 1/3- 1/2 throttle. I still build boost but it buck bad. I also had sorta a miss with light throttle around 2000RPM. That doesn't seem to happen since the TPS swap. I did change the plugs and cap and rotor about a week ago trying to figure this out. Any one have any Ideas?
Ignition problem. Check for cracked wires, and pull the plugs.
did you set your tps with the IAC unplugged? mine is doing the same thing but I didnt unplug my IAC when I set the tps. give it a try and let us know what happens.
No I didn't unplug the IAC when setting the TPS. I had the motor off with the key on. Is that right? Or is the motor supposed to be running? When it is running and I unplug the IAC I have the idel set at 700-800 rpms. Also I do have the Knock sensor unpluged and I got a code for that but forgot to metion that. I did look over the wires and they looked to be in ok condition. I guess I need to OHM meter them. When I changed the plugs last week the old ones were brownist with with a hint of black. They had been in there for about a year.
It sounds like my car when my fuel pump was failing.
my pump isnt failing... less than a year old walbro I'd hope not. mine acts like its not getting enough fuel :dunno:
It doesn't matter if the IAC is plugged in or not when you set the TPS. It matters if the IAC is plugged in or not when you're adjusting the idle via the TB stop screw. At least it does on a 5.0 car. I'm guessing a 2.3T would be the same.
NOTHING matters when you set the idle on a 2.3T. It idles where it well wants to.
I'll see if I can get some on the road fuel pressure readings to make sure the FPR is working right. Also does anyone have a spec for the ohm rating on the plug wires? About the Idle it seems mine always wants to idle right at 1000rpm wtih the IAC plugged in. I used to have a little problem but since I soaked the IAC in carb cleaner for 2 days it idles really nice. The only time I have an idle issue is right after boosting hard it takes a second or two to catch and smooth out. Pics of the current daily driven setup. (http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s188/ipsd1/motornow.jpg)
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I would check the wires and make sure they didn't get damaged after installation. Are you using Motorcraft wires or equivalents? I'm sure you know, but no one else asked. :)
I had the same problem, it would throw a temper tantrum under mild boost. Like under 5psi. But I got a code for a bad PIP/TFI and then a blown headgasket. A new engine later and she runs like champ. lol.
Call me an idiot, but why does everyone seem to favor the motorcraft wires? I have been using ACCEL 300+ Ferro-Spiral Race Wire Sets for about the past 8 years (same set) and have never had a problem so I was just wondering. [/end hijack]
2.3Ts are pretty picky about what wires you use. And they are fairly inexpensive as well. I generally use Motorcraft, Autolites or Ford Racing wires.
Beacuse 5.0s will run ok with pretty much any wire:hick:
Just because its new, doesnt mean its good. I had a walbro pump fail in 4 months.
The best way to test the fuel pump/pumps is to take on the road pressure readings. Take a run with the pressue gague hooked up and taped to the window. Does the pressure raise with boost like it should? Now to get back to my car. I had to install the new server at work last night. That took until 3am. Now today the wifes jeep won't start. Bad starter I think gonna fix that after work . Then the next time I get gonna paint cougar parts and work things out in Da Bird.
I was out working on the Da Bird and replaced the plg wires. I found that number 3 wire was toast. The other all had 5k-7k ohm's resistance while the #3 was infiniti never got a reading from it. I took it out for a drive and all is well. No more missing or cutting out.
NOT TRUE!!!! I put a set of $80 performance wires on my '92 F-150 5.0. Crossfire of 7/8 was horrendous, and in the dark, engine bay looked like it had a Christmas tree under the hood. Put the $30 Motorcrafts back on, and she runs like a dream. Use the Motorcrafts. The factory knew something when they were designed for the engine.
sounds like some faulty wires