Here is the "How-To" a LOT of you guys have been asking about. This is my center console/door lock decal that I make and sell here through ABM. This is my optional "brushed aluminum" set installed onto a 1988 Turbo Coupe (Yes, it's Layla). The same instructions apply for all of the decals I make (83/84, 85/86, 87/88). I also custom make them to order so I can do no power seat, no power anything, blue, carbon fiber, whatever you want. OK, so here we go:
This is the center console plate from Layla and the door locks. I already removed them from the car and brought them inside to warm up. These things work a LOT better in a warm room then in the cold.
First sand them down with 400 grit, the more work you do here, the nicer the decals will look, and the better they will stick. You don't have to take the whole thing down to bare metal, but get the contours around the mirror switch down.
Next, scribe the edges with the backside of a #11 X-Acto knife (it's my favorite tool, get used to seeing it :hick: ). Get all the gunk, dust, and sanding debris out.
Make sure you clean it well. Again, the cleaner the better, and the more time spent on prep, the better the finished product. I use Woolite mixed with water (10-12 parts water to 1 part Woolite) for all interior cleaning.
Seperate the decal from the backing. Note that it has a protective top layer on. Not all of the decals I make will have this (custom orders, first runs, etc) it's simply there to "shield" the decals during shipment. You may certainly try to get it off first, but that's a royal pain on the center piece (easy on the door locks).
More....................
Here's why I like the protective cover. On the center's it's a lot easier to look through the back to line up all of the little holes perfect. Go by the power seat holes (if you have them) and everything else falls in place. The power seat round holes are cut exact, all of the other holes are a little small to account for production variances and to give you a chance to trim them.
From the top, smooth all the air bubles out nicely. Get the decal nice and set. Use your fingernail to push the ends down. Again, it's made on the large side to allow for some tpuppies.
Starting at one corner, CAREFULLY pull the cover off with steady, even pressure. Once your about 1/2 done it's easier to "square it off" and pull the last 2 corners even. Just take your time. DOn't start on the mirror corner, that's the only spot that likes to "pull up".
Yes,yes,more.....................You have my attention....................
Grab that #11 X-Acto again :D and use it to trim the pushed in edges. Also trim any of the holes if desired. The only place I like to trim is for the power mirror. On the "top" where it bends down to meet the switch, I trim along the square hole towards the shifter about 1/4" or so. Then lay the decal into the recess. The mirror switch will pull the rest down. More tpuppies may or may not be required. The mirror switch area is the hardest thing involved so be patient.
OK, time for the door locks. You should have already sanded/cleaned/scribed them like the center.
On the door locks, it's a lot easier to remove the protective layer. Use the door locks to line it up. The "top" portion has more meat then the lower, so watch your lower to make sure you have enough material on both sides. Done correctly you should have 1/4" at the abottom, 1/8" in the middle extra on each side like shown. Don't forget the fingernail trick!
Trim the door locks with the same X-Acto and technique as for the center.
Take the protective layer (with lock buttons still attatched) and drop into place. Rub them down well, then pull the top layer off. They stay put really nicely.
Ta-Da! About 1 hour or so later. It took me 2 because I was snapping pics and taking my sweet old time.
Not done yet! :beatyoass: You still have to put everything back in the car and drink a beer/soda in celebration of yet another automotive accomplishment!
How hard is it to get the air bubbles out/Your center panel has some.I'll wait until you're finished with the "How To".Soory,getting anxious.
And 1 more pic because I can. Here is what I regularly make:
#834SDMSN- 83/84 Standard, dual manual seats, no sensor, $39.99
#834SSPSN- 83/84 Standard, single power seat, no sensor, $39.99
#834SDPSN- 83/84 Standard, dual power seats, no sensor, $39.99
#834SDMSS- 83/84 Standard, dual manual seats, sensor, $39.99
#834SSPSS- 83/84 Standard, single power seat, sensor, $39.99
#834SDPSS- 83/84 Standard, dual power seats, sensor, $39.99
#856SDMS- 85/86 Standard, dual manual seats, $39.99
#856SSPS- 85/86 Standard, single power seat, $39.99
#856SDPS- 85/86 Standard, dual power seats, $39.99
#856ADMS- 85/86 Aluminum, dual manual seats, $44.99
#856ASPS- 85/86 Aluminum, single power seat, $44.99
#856ADPS- 85/86 Aluminum, dual power seat, $44.99
#878SDMS- 87/88 Standard, dual manual seats, $39.99
#878SSPS- 87/88 Standard, single power seat, $39.99
#878SDPS- 87/88 Standard, dual power seats, $39.99
#878ADMS- 87/88 Aluminum, dual manual seats, $44.99
#878ASPS- 87/88 Aluminum, single power seat, $44.99
#878ADPS- 87/88 Aluminum, dual power seat, $44.99
And of course, anything custom:
Custom Set, 83-88, custom substrate, any seat combo, $49.99
Unless it's some uber-expensive 24K gold substrate. ENJOY!
Are you sure Vinnie? Take a look at that last pic. ;)
The airbubbles are easy to get out. Prep is everything just like with any vinyl. The mirror switch are is by far the hardest to deal with due to the contours. Just take your time, be patient, and have fun.
When i saw the bubbles,it was in the installing it pic,not the last ones.My computer didn't down load the last pics before i replied.I look forward to doing this myself.
It takes a few minutes to work them out but they do come out quite easily.
Thanks a lot ol'boy.
Unrelated,shipping out your package tomorrow.
Roger ;)
Very nice. I think I'll be buying a set sometime this summer.
Hmmmm.... It'd be nice if you had them to match the faux carbon fiber dash and butcher blocks. How hard would it be to do?
EDIT: Just had another idea. Some laminating sheets (like what you use to laminate pictures and such) would make an excellent wear/damage barrier.
Mayhem,
I have carbon fiber substrate, it looks killer. I did a set with silver lettering for an un-named customer.
And they wear really well, better then stock IMHO. I installed the first test set in 2004 and it still looks new. No fading either. I keep track of these sets pretty well to see how they're holding up since I make them myself.
can the center be layed on without the stock metal peice?
Nope, you have to have the metal piece. The bottom plastic has holes for absolutely everything.
So? Gimme a price already. :D
Very nice. I've always been curious about these. For mine I used ultra-thin (1/16" and 1/8") modeling tape and covered all the white parts, and sprayed the rest with black paint and matte clearcoat. You can "bend" 1/16" tape to follow the curved white lines. Worked well, but a major PITA to carry out.
Prices on page 1.
I think Martin wants a price for the faux-CF style ones.
ABM - Quit Gouging everyone with your high prices! I can buy these at Wal-Mart for $2.77!
...kiddin'. I think I'll buy a set very soon. The aluminum look ones are badass.
I can normally do custom ones for $49.99 shipped. I'll check on prices for the cf substrate, hopefully they haven't gone up.
So for my '84 that only has Power mirrors and windows it would cost $49.99?
No. If you want the standard or aluminum version, and just want accessories taken off, they are regular price. So an 83/84 Black with power windows and mirrors only is $39.99.
Here's a few pics a customer posted on NATO of the black kit installed.
(http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00001945/Fuelgauge2.jpg)
(http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00001945/Fuelgauge1.jpg)
You still selling these? If so, I need to decide black or silver.
Sweet stuff!
dose any one have a print out of one or anything that i could make my own from? and maybe if i can i might make some more to sell.
Are you still making these????
No.
He's been out of business for a loooooong time now.
Dang that sucks I was just doin a search and saw this thread (and how old it was lol) and figured i'd give it a try. Does anyone else make them cause im either gonna have to get another pass door lock thing or get a kit like this???
well there was a guy who bought it out but he never opened for business. I know i could use those right now to get that part of my interior squared away.
The door lock stickers didn't last too long once applied. You're MUCH better off finding another door lock switch and using it. High wear areas like a pdl switch aren't good for decals.
Ok well i'll think of something for that the main thing I was kinda looking for was a center console plate with both power seats power windows but no power mirrors for my tbird interior project. I think I might be able to use earlier cougar mirrors (or may be just the glass and motor part) but if I cant I dont want a PM switch there that does nothing.
I had a guy who was going to try and make the decals for the center panel,but,he can't do it right now,so,I'm going to go another route.Pics when it happens.....hopefully soon.
Your just a Tease!!!!
Once mine is done,I'll show pics and tell how I did it.Hopefully Monday.
Sweet cant wait to see em!!!
I'm still waiting for a trip minder pic :D
,I forgot about that.I have to clean the Sport before Saturday afternoon,I'll grab a few pics of general "stuff" from the Sport.