I re-started my 1/24 replica of my Sport saturday.I spent a couple of days and a lot of hours some time ago building an accurate header panel with a grille.After I completed it and was very pleased with it,I put the kit away.Now,a couple of months later,I'm going with the TC nose.This car is going to be a VERY accurate replica.I spent about 3 hours saturday and got the rear suspension functional with springs and functional lower control arms.I also fabbed up a nice set of warlock lers.I'm working on the front suspension now trying to figure out how to make the front wheels poseable and the suspension functional.I got the Cobra R rims from a guy in England,the 5.0 from a 1/24 stang kit,and I'm making the Pypes X-Pipe from either brass or aluminum tubing.I also found an AOD tranny for it.The seats will tilt and all of the wiring will be there,top and bottom.I also fabbed up a double hump crossmember.In the pics,there's a single TC exhaust.That's just for fitting purposes.It's going away.I also have fabbed up an AOD shifter and handle.Like I said,it'll be super accurate.It should be finished by the end of summer.Anyway,just wasting my day so I thought I'd share.
Pics
I don't post pics.I could never figure it out.I don't know why I have a hard time with it.If I e-mail them to you,can you post them/If so,send me your e-mail and I'll take a few.
Vinn, hit me with up, i'll have them up in a few
PM me when sent
ok he will do it then!
What was your e-mail???
mines boss351@verizonmail.com
Sounds cool Vinnie.
I took the '87 TC model and gave it my own twist as well.
Now it has a 5.0 with full dual exhaust from an '89 Mustang kit, custom built chrome straight pipes, and an electric fan. It's been lowered by shaving 1.5 coils on the rear and using the Mustang front end. It has chrome 5 spoke wheels with visible disc brakes.
It still needs work, I haven't messed with it since January but I'll have to get some pics on here later.
Put the pics in the Official Model Thread ;)
i started a t/c kit and i fed up the paint on the body. the kit i have comes with the fms body kit!
wheres the pics i got everything set up to post them for you and they haven't come yet!
Blueovalboy010689@yahoo
Not sure how "functional" you want the suspension to be, but a good place to get close-to-scale springs from is "clicky" pens.
Otherwise, an easy way to simulate springs is to wrap coated wire around a sprue or small wooden dowel.
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/100_1974.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/100_1975.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/100_1976.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/100_1977.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/100_1978.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/100_1979.jpg)
Pics ALSO going in the model thread
I already have springs.They were made for this type of work.I've had them for a long time.They are accurate to scale,and functional.The rear is already bouncy if you gently push on the car.The front,that's another story.The real car relies on struts and springs,so,I'll try to fab up some struts from brass tubing,or plastic tubing for the look (they will have to compress),and let the springs do the actual work.it'll be a very intricate kit when I'm finished.I am fabbing up an Explorer intake like mine as well.I may bend up some aluminum and make a set of tiny scale BBK headers.....maybe.
Sorry the pics are so big.That's my fault.I haven't figured out how to scale them down on the computer.Oh well,better than nothing.....or maybe not.
That nose look awesome.
I always used solder to make headers. It's perfect for it. I think you'd get pretty frustrated trying to work with aluminum, too hard to make the tight bends you'd need.
Vinnie, that is bad-ass. can't wait to see it when it's done!
I'm working on a custom F-150 right now, let's just say it's gonna have forced induction cough cough S351 cough, and a couple other little goodies, MY spin on what the first gen Lightning SHOULD have been from the factory ;)
Thanks guys.As far as bending aluminum,there's a trick to it.Fill the tube tightly with salt.Yes,salt.Then,heat the tube (salt won't burn up),and bend the tube.the salt keeps the tube from kinking up.Now you know.I'll take pics as i get work done.I want it to look as real as possible.
Actually, with real headers, I've read that you can bend tubing for custom headers using sand and heating the pipes.:D
Yep,same concept.It's worked well for me with my other kits I use for competing.
Nice!:headbang:
If you insist on doing it the hard way, be my guest...
headers made from solder look plenty realistic. if I remember this weekend, I'll get pics of some I made and you can judge for yourself.
Pics would be nice.I know aht I know,and I'm always open to try something different.Let me see what you have built.If they have the look I'm going for,I'll give it a try.I have to keep everything scale,so,thin solder is a must.It has to look like I shrunk my car whan I'm finished.I went and bought an aftermarket distributor kit with blue wire.I found some super fine mesh for the cowl vents.It's going to be an insane build.Plus,I need a break from my Project Pheonix for a few days.It keeps me focused.
Wow! That sounds pretty cool! I'm actually about to do the same thing for my car! I haven't started it yet though, just took it out of the box and examined everything so far. I'm gonna need a 5 litre for mine too and some wheels and I'm gonna try and get that shaker on it to....although, it doesn't sound like I'm going to the extent you are going, I don't think I'm quite that talented. Good luck and let us know how it's going!
Well I do know a thing or two about detailed models...
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c223/Red_LX/blacktruckchassis.jpg)
Although, I built that one in high school so it isn't perfect (plus it was the first fully detailed model I built so stuff is missing/wrong). I also realized I used way too much black after I built the thing, so it's hard to pick out some details due to a lack of contrast.
I used 1/8" aluminum tubing for exhaust pipe on that truck (works out to a scale 3" pipe). Polish it up and it looks really nice.
If you can find some 1/16" solder, that would be a perfect size for scale 1 1/2" primaries.
Making everything appropriately "to scale" can be tough sometimes...
i did something similar once i took a chevy bel air model, and a supercharged big block from another and had a stock bel air with a weland blower out the hood, came out so nice, and then it was dropped and the body cracked...
I won 3 plaques in Texas at the show they had in march.One Master award for the engine in my '70 Torino kit,and first and second place in my class.The Torino has everything from throttle return spring,vacuum lines,plug wires,opening doors,and trunk,poseable steering,seatbelts,etc. etc.The daytone I just finished has all of that with pop up headlights,opening everything,etc.I have to have my T-Bird replica looking like pics of the real car.i need to post some more pics.