i just installed my new cluster (buttstuffogue) and it keeps draining my battery
I believe i have it all pinned right. its just not letting my turn signals blink when the headlights are on..it drains the battery.. its all been happening since i installed the cluster... i really dont wanna put my old one back in but i will if i have to.
Changed alternator and re-pinned buttstuffogue cluster.. we shall see how it goes tomorow.
did you forgot to put in the resistor?
Re-read the coolcats article.
I didnt put a resistor in when i did my swap, and havnt had a problem.
its a v8 to v8 swap bud. shouldnt it swap directly? other than repinning of course.
I didn't put in a resistor either. I went from a base cluster to aftermarket, and simply needed to join the two AMP wires (ammeter) to keep the alternator charging the system. That's not necessary for this kind of swap, only for going aftermarket.
There's got to be something wrong with the wiring setup in this instance. The main power wire needs to be the ignition switched 12v+ source (I believe it's white/purple). Even though you're going V8-to-V8, the wiring is totally different. This was before the notion of "plug and play" like newer vehicles have. So you absolutely have to repin things the correct way in order for the new cluster to function properly, and also to keep the battery from draining.
i followed the wiring pinout on your site eric. and pinned as such.
You went from base to V8 buttstuffog?
You also have to make absolutely sure that you didn't pinch any wires when reinstalling the cluster - this is very easy to do and can cause all sorts of problems
I didn't mean for the tach, I meant for the amp wires.
I thought you had to put a resistor between the amp wires, according to the site.
the amp wires are sopposed to be connected?
shiznit.
lmfao
Thanks to mr cool cats... those gauges look nice when they are well lit :D
problem solved
well that was short lived :(
The car keeps draining while im driving. i start out with a new battery yesterday new alternator, new starter solenoid, and a new pain in the ass
my moms bf thinks its the alternator. 60 amp.
Mind you I am pushing a killer system 1200 watt amp and such.. idk wtf this cars deal is.. i run all day with no problems.. at night im fcked i run with the lights on for maybe 15-20 minutes.. my brights are no brighter than my low beams.
HELP MEH!
Do you have a voltmeter handy?
With the car idling, the battery should be receiving between 13 and 14 volts. If not, then you either have a bad alternator, a bad voltage regulator on the alternator, or your wiring is still not correct.
Really, that's the first place you should start looking for the problem. Forget the fact that you just got another alternator...it can be bad right out of the box, especially if it's a reman that's on the low end of the price spectrum. Been there, done that more times than I want to recall. Might want to take it somewhere and have it tested. Don't be surprised if you're told it's a stuck diode...that's common in a reman.
I believe your stock alt should be 65 amps, not 60. You can upgrade safely to a Mustang 5.0 75-amp alternator; it requires a little grinding on the alt bracket and it rotates the alt slightly, but otherwise it bolts up and your harnesses plug right in.
Another thing...be SURE that the wiring on the alternator is safe, and that no bare wires are showing, especially at the connectors themselves. If you wiggle the light green/red wire on the regulator and you suddenly get 13-14v at the battery...that's your problem.
Oh yeah, almost forgot. How is your serpentine belt? Is the tensioner pulley in the specified range on the bracket? If it's on the low end you might need a new tensioner.
If it is the alternator,now is a great time to do the 3G upgrade.one of the easiest,best mods you can do,and really functional.
do keep in mind that if the battery doesn't need much to be fully charged, the alternator will not put out he maximum. don't mistake that for a bad alternator. do a search on full-fielding the alternator. in other words, by-passing the regulator for a very short time while looking for an increase in alternator output. don't let it go beyond 16 volts or so. ya don't wanna start blowing or burning stuff up.
oh, and i might be wrong, but i thought that an amp guage would require the flow to go only through the guage with no resistor. anything other than that would give a false reading, right? i hope this question isn't a stupid one, because i'm tired.
3g and running with everything on... man i love it. its not draining a bit
with the stock ford alt.. i was pushing 40 amps.. so said advance auto
this new one is pushin 115amps! I LOVE IT. no more dead battery