What does it take to put in a clutch pack for an 8.8 locker?
Will I need to have the gears all set up again?
The carrier bearings?
Same question again-->Will I need to have the gears all set up again?
I am going to do Axel bearings and seals and I know with those it's not required to set up the gears again. Thing is I do not know how to do the gears myself, and I'm not prepared to fork out the $$ to have it done. So I want to do all I can Just up to that point to this rear before I swap it in.
thanks in advance
Jim
I think you can do the clutches without disturbing the bearings, and therefore the preloads and clearances. All you need to do is get that S-clip out of the carrier, then take the spider gears out, then the clutches & steels. The S-clip, if I remember correctly, is the biggest pain in the arse to remove & install as it's under quite a bit of tension. I've got to do the same thing to mine. It's been about ten years since I've done a posi rear (and yes, it was a posi rear, in a Police Caprice), so I don't remember fully...
Ain't bad to do... Did mine laying under the car with the stableizer bar still installed.. Remove the center pin, "C" clips, axles, "S" spring spider gears and the clutches will just pull out...
Upon reinstall just use the shims that will barely let the center pin slide back in, a little light tapping to install it is OK... To get the "S" spring back in place, start it in long ways(toward one end), then just tap it lightly around into place... Did mine back in '01 still works great and I ain't been exactly easy on it...
hmmm.. "without disturbing the bearings"
So, I’m reading “IF I do disturb the carrier bearings it would disturb the preloads and clearances and require them to be set up again” correct?
In which case I would NOT want to do the carrier bearings.
But it sounds like from two reliable sources (based on post count you both been at this a while) the clutches aren’t a problem.
The "S" clip is def a bitch to get out. You should be able to get them out with a big vise grip. When I did mine I picked out the best clutch and shim from the old set and squeezed them in on the drivers side-with the new set. Pretty good for locking up both wheels-not so good in the rain. You could just get a 28 spline auburn and change the whole thing-I think they're like 200 bucks new.
Ken
If you do replace the carrier bearings then yes, you will have to figure out the shims/preloads/clearances/etc again. In order to replace the clutches, though, you won't need to disturb the bearings.
Called around to price a Clutch pack kit for an 8.8 today, none of the part's stores around had them, even Performance part's stores. Finally found them at the Ford dealership and they wanted $180.
Not wanting to spend that much right now for a posi I'm told is working fine. I'll save that for later, like when/if I ever do gears in it.
Thanks for the info though guys.
They are bending you over....
If purchased through a Ford Motorsport dealer it should be a lot cheaper
Try Jegs or Summit racing...
Part no in '05 was M-4700-B, listed for 45.95... Includes clutch packs, retainer pin and friction modifier additive...
Jeg's has it $44.95... http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_753282_-1_88518
I bought my kit on eBay for about $40, and it's a Ford Motorsports kit. Included pin bolt and additive too.
Yea thats more like it!
Ok clutches ARE going to happen. Thanks Turbo
I just hope my tires hold out long enough to get all these parts in. Happened to park with the front tires turned yesterday where I could see the tread.. or LACK there of as the case may be. I hope Jeg's delivers fast.
Well I guess the wait on this won't be so bad... On the 11th I ordered some POR-15 to paint the rear and calapers and it's not here yet.. just checked the Fed-Ex tracking number and the was delivered on the 14th to some place in "pacific, MO."
Problem with that is I'm in Vancouver, WA.
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You're Welcome... Now you'll get catalogs with all the goodies...
lol, That's ALL I need, already $620 into this rear end and havent got the bushings, master, balancer, e-brake cables or shocks yet... ALMOST added a $75 line lock to the order for the clutchs, THATS when I stopped and added the numbers up
Ok Clutch Pack showed up today and has a Mess-O-Shims with it..
Pairs .025 through .045 thick in .005 increments.
Says should only use one shim per side. However a Maximum of two may be used if needed.
How do I measure for what shim I need to use?
On another site they said the clutch pack should measure .645 to .645, then another fella said yse the origonal shim, and then still another said to use as much shim as you could and still piviot the spiders into place.
I got around to changing the clutches last night
The shim I took out measured .020
I measured the new stack out to .647 with a .035 shim
Installed this and it went in very easy.
Removed that and changed to .040 shims and it still went in easy.
Didn’t want to push my luck too far and end up with chattering so I went with the .040 shims.
I’ll update this again once I get it in the car and see how it performs.
When I took mine apart it had two shims on each side - a .045 and a .010 (no markings were visible, so I mic'd 'em). I tried installing the clutches with the original shims in place and couldn't get the spiders in. I then removed one .010 shim, and still couldn't. I then removed the other (leaving .045 on each side) and was able to tap the spiders into place - it was a little tight, but I didn't have to "jam" 'em in. Hopefully it won't chatter, but I'd rather it chattered than slipped...
So didja stink yourself up with the additive? :D
Washed, showered, scrubbed, and STILL get a wiff of it now and then... I think it's comming from under my finger nails!