Hey guys, I started tear down of my 302 that I pulled from my 94 rustang parts car. First a little history: I bought the car for the 5.0 and T5, and found out from the kid I bought it from that the owner previous to him had a Jasper motor installed. Plus he said that from what the guy told him, the motor had about 14,000 miles on it.
I haven't gotten too far yet, but so far the intake came off pretty easily, and the driver side head came off like butter. I was kinda expecting the intake and heads to be real tough to pull loose (first time tearing a motor down this far :hick: ) but was pleasantly surprised. Guess it helps the motor doesn't have alot of miles on it.:D
So far, to my untrained eye, things look pretty good, which leads me to believe the reported milage on the motor is acurate. I'm kinda surprised at the size of the pistons though. According to the numbers on the piston, they're Sealed Power brand, .040 over:eek:
Not that .040 seems like a huge number to me, just wasn't expecting that on a reman motor.
Here's a few pics so I don't get mauled by the pic ws:flip:
And here's one of the cross hatching on the cylinder wall. Still seems pretty good. Sorry it's not that good of a pic, but yes, I did try using the Macro function:p
Looks good. Throw some heads back on it, run synthetic and spray the piss out of it.
LOL. I've heard bad things about cast aluminum slugs and juice.:D I do have a set of twisted wedge heads waiting in the wings.:evilgrin:
I've noticed in a few posts that .030 over pistons bump the CI to 306, what would these .040 over pistons bump the CI too?
((((Bore+.040)/2)^2) x 3.1415926) x stroke x 8
:hick:
Or, if you just want the answer.... 308ci
Looks good. It's nice that it was low mile. How come the one piston is so much cleaner than the others? :hick:
Thanks Chuck, my math is pretty rusty, that one would've given me a massive cranial megahurt.:D What's the ^ symbol mean?
Thunderjet, that's from old fashion elbow grease, lol, just so I could read the piston markings.
:D Thanks Chuck!:D________:dunce: ---> me:hick:
Well, while working on the motor more today, I noticed an odd hole between the lifter vally and timing chain area. Just thought it looked odd. Also, I was looking at the oil pressure sender, and was wondering if we could use that one with our sender gauges, istead of hunting down an extender and using the big can lookin thing.:dunno: For this car it won't really matter since I'll be using an Auto Meter oil pressure gauge and sender, but thought it might be of interest.
Yikes! I can't say that hole looks like it was machined there, but I'm not an expert. I've torn two of these smallblocks apart, but that's it.
Otherwise, the motor looks clean, to me. You should see the horrific pictures of the inside of my 70k mile Cougar motor *sludge city* vs the 200k Crown Vic motor.
EDIT: PS - That sender looks like a "Low Oil Pressure" light switch.
Uh I don't think that hole is supposed to be there. I know the 5.0 I just had rebuilt doesn't have that. It looks like something failed bad and punched the hole. It doesn't look like it would cause problems though, but I could be wrong.
The rustang has an oil pressure gauge in-dash, and I didn't see any other sender units for oil.:dunno:
Anyone else have thoughts on my "speed-hole" or the sender unit?
If you have an oil pressure guage than that is the correct sending unit. The one for a low pressure light only on the dash is smaller.....find a way to close up that open sore on the block!
Hate to say it but I think that block is trashed...
Jasper does a bit of everything so it looks like that person went for the optional over bore.
My dad did that when he got one installed in his old Ram.
How so? What are possible draw backs to that being there? I wasn't exactly nice to the car at first when I got it, I put it through it's paces when I got it, one to see how it ran, and two to see how the extra horses felt compared to my old Sport.:evilgrin: Me likey!
I'm not gonna thrash the hell out of the motor after it's done, and it's not getting sprayed or blown: so what are the negatives to leaving it alone, and what would be recomended to fix it?
Also, it's and old "wound", since there is no trace of the missing material. Do you think Jasper would have re-used the block if that was a serious issue?
I would think that if the hole is in a critical area then your crankcase won't be pressurized. That, and you'll get a hell of a lot of oil in the valley. I sense bad things about that...
I also don't know if it can be repaired. It's tempting to say "JB Weld". But that's a pretty big hole...what would you say, about the size of a dime, nickel, quarter?
So you're saying you ran the car with this hole and the engine performed alright? What weight oil were you using? You didn't hear any ticking in the valvetrain?
Hole size: since it's oval shaped, it's wider than a dime, but not as tall as a dime. It's between the lifter valley and timing chain area. Second pic shows the hole above the cam. If something made the hole by going through it, it looks like it would've gone from the timimg chain area into the lifter valley.
The car ran great when I got it, but I haven't had it on the road since last summer. I've had it running plenty of times moving it around though. Never heard any ticking, but then again the car had a MAC cat back on it, and that sort of thing would have been tough to hear.:D
Not sure what weight oil was run in it, never changed it, but when I drained the oil it looked like it wasn't any thicker than 10w40, but thats only a guess, since it didn't look very thick.
Don't worry about them... Oil drain back...
Would have been nice if they had been cleaned up a bit, but I guarantee they were there when Jasper rebuilt the engine(and you really think they would have sent a engine out that was going to have a problem when they had to warranty it??)... If you were going to totally dissemble it(and I wouldn't on a 14K engine, looks good to me), I'd deburr them but don't think I'd take the chance of getting cuttings in a motor I was getting ready to run...
.040 over is fine, one of my racin' buddys put over 1600 drag strip passes on a 308 till the crank broke(yeah it was ugly)... But not as ugly as the DSS 331 he replaced it with that broke a rod the sixth weekend at the track...
I'm not pullin the crank and pistons, just lettin those ride. After I clean up some of the rust on the block and add some paint to it, I'll be putting in a TF stage 1 cam and twisted wedge heads. I have some 1.6 alum. rockers to throw on as well.
Twisted Wedge heads take stud mount rockers just to let you know......
Yup!:D Got a set of Scorpion 1.6 rockers, 3/8" stud mount ready and waiting!
Cool! Just makin' sure you knew! Have fun!
While you have the engine apart, it wouldn't be a bad idea just to cylinder bores to make sure they are within spec. Also, you could take the main caps and rod caps off and inspect the bearings, just to make sure there is no excessive wear. It's easier to do that work now, then when its in the car.
Hey guys, I'm planning on using these intake gaskets: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG%2D5835&autoview=sku (http://"http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG%2D5835&autoview=sku")
With them having the built in silicon seals, would I still need to use something like Permatex High-tac on the water jackets still, or would that be over redundant?
Thanks for the help, all!:bowdown:
Um, anyone with input? :crazy: I'm planning on some assembly this weekend, so I need a little insight. Thanks, guys.:hick:
do not use silicone around the water jackets with those gaskets but still use a dab of it at the corners.
At the corners where the heads meet the block?
yeah, where the head, block and intake all meet.
Cool, Thanks!
I just showed my dad pics of the strange hole and he doesn't think it would be detrimental to the engine. Doesnt look shattered as if something blew through it either. Probably just a casting defect.