So I decided to tackle the TC rear, you know, get it ready for installation into the car (new clutches, check bearings, etc). Everything was going fine until I took the diff pin bolt out, and only half of it came. Any suggestions on how to get the rest of it out without destroying the differential?
*EDIT* This problem has been overcome, but new ones have arisen. Scroll down for photos/new questions
Only way i've done it is with a small chisel.
Use the corner edge and start tapping it in the correct direction.
Or you could use a drill then an easy out.
left handed drill bit and an easy out if it doesnt come.
Mine broke to when I did mine right at the end of the treads,nice way to start the day!.You can't drill it real hard or it will just spin and not cut,use a good cobalt bit.If you can get the easy out into it it should come out.I ended up beatin it out the the otherside no fun, I was replacin the carrier anyway.If I remember you need a 45degree drill regular drill wont let you get lined up.Not positive on that thou.
YOu can probably just whack the pin really good and that should break the little snout on that bolt and you should be able to get that pin out.
YOu really can't do much with the diff in the car. No way to get an easy out in there.
The rear isn't in the car, so I have some room (and comfort) while working on it. I can probably make a bit more room by removing the bearing cap on that side as well. I was thinking about shearing the snout off the bolt by beating on the pin as you suggested, Chuck, but wanted to check it out with people who know a lot more about rear ends than I do before trying it :D
I'll probably try an easy out first - the thought hadn't occurred to me because around here, with our salt-covered cars, a broken bolt usually gets that way from rust, and easy outs are generally useless (I don't even own any). This bolt wasn't broken due to rust, though, so it may come out.
A little heat next time before trying to remove it will most likely keep this from happening again.
Actually I think it was broken off before I took it out. It offered very little resistance coming out (I used a 1/4" ratchet), and is broken way down in the hole (almost to the very last thread). That's what's gonna make it so hard to get out - it's in so deep.
:idhitit: Somebody said they tightened it till they heard a snap, now they want
me to back it off a half turn.
:dunce:
Well, I got the fugger out tonight. It had been very cold out and I ran out of firewood so I hadn't even looked at it until tonight (mild temps and a load of firewood all in one day!).
I first tried drilling into it for an easy-out - no go. The bolt was harder than my drill bit. I then took Chuck and Sleeper Bird's advice and beat the living snot out of it to break the bolt. It took a lot of beating, but I got it:
(http://www.foxthundercats.com/images/tcdiffpinbolt.jpg)
Of course, in the process, I destroyed the pin itself (note the cracks at 10 and 4 o'clock):
(http://www.foxthundercats.com/images/tcaxlepincracked.jpg)
Glad I took it apart though, as it needs axles and bearings. The left axle had the worst wear, and actually had a strange wear pattern - it has several "flats" like a Canadian Loonie coin (or, for you Americans, like a stop sign, only with more than eight sides):
(http://www.foxthundercats.com/images/tcleftaxlewear.jpg)
(http://www.foxthundercats.com/images/tcleftaxlewearpattern.jpg)
The right axle was worn, too, but not quite as bad (as if that matters - a worn axle is a worn axle, after all):
(http://www.foxthundercats.com/images/tcrightaxlewear.jpg)
So this brings me to a few questions, hopefully CHuck or somebody can answer:
1) Will the diff pin out of my 7.5" open differential fit, or will I need an 8.8" trac-loc pin?
2) Will my 7.5" axles fit? I know they're the correct spline number and diameter, but are 7.5" 88 T-Bird drum brake axles the same length as 8.8" TC disc brake axles? Obviously I don't care about the ABS exciter rings. I know I'll find out for sure when I put the car up and pull the 7.5" rear, but I'd prefer to be able to get the swap done in a day so I can still move the car around, so I'd like to know if I already have the parts (axles, diff pin) or if I'll need to get 'em.
That sure is an odd wear pattern.
I'm not sure about the diff pin. I never thoughht to compare the two side-by-side.
As far as the axles go, they are the same length, but since the 88 7.5 housing is wider, you'll need to scrutize the bearing surface locations between the two to see if they'll work.
I think you found the answer to the ware,The bearings + or lack of oil.It was blueing for a liittle while on the end.You must of known, why did you tear it down?,Sorry I have no answer to your ??,I am really confused about the TC 8.8 + 87-88 7.5.
Please post when you figure it out.
I did not know - this rear end is out of a parts car that I had only driven a few miles before taking the car apart. I took it apart because I wanted to make sure it's in good shape before actually installing it into the car, as it's so much easier to do this kind of work when you're not rolling around under a car fighting for room. You know, just like one would check out an engine before installing it. My main plan was to simply replace the clutches in the traction lock. The bearing problem just kinda made itself known.
Chuck: If the 7.5" rear is longer but the axle shafts are the same that should actually be beneficial, (I actually read the thread that has all that info in it last night), as it will mean the bearings will now ride further inboard on the axle shaft, in a place they hadn't run before. If it was shorter it would've sucked because the surface would have been rusty. I will be picking up the bearings and seals tomorrow, so I should find out first hand anyway...
I know this is an old topic, But I'm preping an 8.8 for my bird now and had the same thing happen. Removed the small pin and it felt just fine coming out (used a box end wrench about 3" long), and yet when it came out of the hole the "pin" part of it is still in there.
I REALLY dident want to pull the whole mess apart. I'm just doing an axel swap. Anybody have any NEW info on a simple way to remove this?
opps.. this isen't that old of a topic..
I read Thunder chickens join date (oct 2004) instead of the last post date (3-13-07)
Noobs!!
sorry
I tried drilling it for using an easy out, but the bolt is harder than my drill bits. I ended up beating the pin out and breaking the bolt (as you can see in the above pics the bolt ended up in four pieces). It really wasn't hard, but it was time consuming. One whack ain't gonna do it...
No it's not easy as evereyone says's.On the 7.5 I beat it out the carrier.But 8.8 is beeffer! so beat on.
you'll need a bit made with Cobalt steel or Tungsten Carbide an HSS bit. The bit should have a large point angle too. Finally a spotting bit is a little easier to start but is no substitute for the right punch to get a center point. If the break wasn't clean then drilling the top of the pin left inside to make the surface level helps starting a center point.
Always let the drill and the bit do the work, excessive pressure breaks bits. Always use the right lubricant and keep swarf from collecting on the bit clogging it up. :hick:
I don't know what SEARS policy is on bits I'm sure someone else here can tell you, but if you break their hand tools they replace them. Just my thoughts... On the other hand Mechanics have hammers for a reason... :D
Well, I got it all back together today. I found a few things out:
1) The 7.5 pin is not the same as the 8.8. It's the same diameter but about 1" shorter. Might be because the 7.5 was open and the 8.8 is traction-lock, though
2) When I took the old clutches out, one of them on the ring gear side was missing both tabs. You could see that they had broken off, but there's no sign of the broken pieces inside the rear end housing. I'm guessing that the previous owner must have removed 'em when they replaced the wheel bearings before
3) The wheel bearings were replaced before. The ones that were in the axle were "axle savers" - they were offset to allow the rollers to wear on a new spot on the axle. They were actually lubed with grease and had a seal on the inside AND outside (like the Dana 30 in my old Cherokee), so rear end lube didn't get into 'em.
4) The axles in my 7.5 were mint, so I used 'em. Aside from the ABS reluctor ring they were identical to the TC axles. The 7.5 open diff almost looks cute compared to the 8.8 traction lock - everything is so tiny!
5) Ford friction modifier additive is quite possibly the single smelliest substance on the planet. It smells like the piss of a thousand tom cats. My garage will probably stink for months...
So whats the status on your project Thunder? I'm still waiting on that paint I ordered on the 11th that got sent to the wrong state.
Mine hasn't changed much - the TC rear end is still sitting on jack stands ready to be installed, the car is on jack stands with a half taken apart 7.5 under it. I was gonna do the actual rear end swap yesterday, but ended up having to run a bunch of errands instead. Today and tomorrow I've got to work. I might get a start on the swap tomorrow evening. I'll still need a bunch of stuff to make the swap complete (master cylinder, prop valve, brake cables) but at least the car will roll again...
Mines sitting about the same way on jackstands. I canceled the Por-15 I ordered on the 11th thats still hasent gotten delivered and reordered elseware, should be here the 4th. I don't want to assemble the breaks until after I paint them so I'm on hold till then. Not to mention to busy even if I did have the paint.
will be a week or two.
You need to be easy with carbide drill bits since they break easy. Light pressure and they will do all the work for you.