My goal of getting Layla running ant to the track by March 2nd is a go. I'm 10 nuts from seeing pistons. Hopefully there's no holes...
Good luck my friend.I'm paint,wheels,tires,window tint,engine swap,and interior swap away from being finished..
good luck man, you can do it!
GOOD NEWS!!
I got the head off, and all the pistons were there, yeah! So here's the good, bad, and ugly.
Good: As mentioned, all the pistons are there, blocks good, rings are good. I don't need to pull the motor! My "bulletproof" bottom end really was bulletproof! It looks just like I assembled it 16 months ago. The Sealed Power pistons are holding up great! The head looks good from the bottom, everything went nice and smooth.
Bad: Looks like the head "lifted" off of the block. I can't really explain why everything is so oily. My guess is the 8993 gasket combined with maybe not 100% accurate ARP head stud installation with 30psi = broken. The timing belt also jumped 2 teeth. New tensioner time...
Ugly: 3 valve seals are all the way up the valves, 3 others are up off the seat. The wastegate actuator broke off the mount :(
So it looks like some oil and anti-freeze, a 1035, an intake gasket set, and some head work and I'm back in business. The Dexcool coolant still looked brand new with no sludge whatsoever. I'm REALLY happy I switched. The SC50 looks good, the MaxPSI oil lines are still good. This is the least expensive I've ever had the head off this car for. I should be re-assembling next weekend! And this time with a gutted upper and knifed lower instead of just ported/ported.
I do need to get in touch with Scott, formerly S&R Racing. He custom welded that wastegate actuator for me and I need him to re-do it.
bad ass man, Im rootin for ya
Oh yeah. :D
It should be moving again really fast! Just a simple fix the head and slap some new gaskets in there. Looks like the oil leak was coming out of the back of the head at the gasket. The rear main is fine and the pistons have been holding oil for 2 hours now. I'll drop the head off at the machine shop tomorrow to get looked at and order up the gaskets from Summit. I'm really looking forward to March 2nd and I really feel she'll go 13's right outta the box. Here's how she'll be equipped:
.030 over 86 2.3T block, ARP main studs, .010/.010 crank, stock rods with ARP rod bolts, .030 over 8.5:1 Sealed Power forged pistons with moly rings, ARP head studs, Melling std pressure hi-volume oil pump, Mahle coated bearings, Fel Pro 1035, dual PCV's, ported iron 88 head, roller cam, new valve seals, gutted upper intake, knife edged lower intake, ported TB, Cruizin 35# injectors, Kirban AFPR, BBK 255lph hi-pressure fuel pump, ported E6, Precision SC50 ball-bearing turbo (.60 SIV cold, .63 SIII hot, water-cooled), 2.5" elbow, single 3" exhaust with Dynomax Ultra-Flow and dump, 3" ABM CAI w/14" K&N cone, 88TC top mount, 3-core copper rad, A/C delete, RAM Powergrip HD 6-puck Carbon-Kevlar clutch, Royal Purple fluids, FMS shocks, and Toyo 225/60/16's. Wow, that was mouthful. Definately should go 13's...
:D
I do have a set of Chuck W mounts and some CHE upper and lower rear bars, but I don't know whether or not I'll install them by March 2nd.
21 hours and the cylinders are still holding oil. Everything's looking good ;)
How easy are the 2.3's to rebuild and mod? Because my dad wants me to help him build a performance motor for his, and I know more about the motor then him because of everyone on here, plus I want to build the one in my rotted t/c for when the time comes i can plop it in a ranger. And keep kicking ass, can't wait to see it done
Just as easy as any other engine.
well im used to building pushrod motors, the 2 2.3's ill be doing will be the first ohc motor for me, so its gonna be different. im used to small block v8's, and motorcycle motors.
Cylinders are still holding. Oh yeah :D
I'm "formulating" an order for Summit today, 1035 gasket, intake gasket set, case of Royal Purple, oil catch can, and a 3" Dynomax Ultra-Flo. I decided I'm plugging the PCV on the intake and running lines from the block's PCV hole and the VC breather to an oil catch can. No more leaks! >(
Good job !!! I hope this gets the power you're after.After the new paint,Cobra R's,and new window tint,my car should be down in the mid 4's in the 1/4.LOL !!!
Just got of the horn with Summit...
AutoMeter Ultra-Lite 0-30psi boost gauge
Dynomax Ultra-Flo 3" Welded Bullet
Dynomax 3" mandrel turn-down
Summit Oil Catch Can Kit (Red)
case of 10W30 Royal Purple
Royal Purple MaxGear
Fel-Pro 1035 Head Gasket
Fel-Pro Intake gasket set
...and a free TShirt and Hat. :D
I've been doing some reading up, and I think I may be leaving myself open for some potential problems when I get her back together. I've been thinking that maybe I should add some additional parts. A BPV would definately calm the SC50 down a little, but what really has me worried is the fuel system. Are the 35#s with an AFPR and 255 enough? Or should I be looking at 55+#s and a TwEECer for the LA3? I'd really rather not blow this thing up and a lot of threads are pointing out the inadequecy of the 35#s at high-boost/HP levels? I can CC it now if it's really going to help me. What do you guys think?
35#-ers are only good up to about 300hp.....
Where do I get 55/65/75's? How big should I go? Where do I buy a TwEECer?
Check around on TF.
They're too busy fighting one another to give me any help, I already asked them. Some are telling me to MAF/MS it and others are saying TwEECer and others are saying I should s the whole thing and stick a stock motor in a notchback Mustang with a Holset. *sigh*
What about the CFI injector route?
Claude has a good point.
You can modify some of the CFI injectors to work. They are 42 or 46# I think for the 5.0's.
I know I saw a few for sale there on TF a week or so ago.
That is your cheapest mild upgrade. That will give you a little more breathing room.
You can get it from them direct or through an authorized dealer.
http://www.tweecer.com/cc_order.htm
I have the CFI from my car is you need the injectors. Blue tops are 42# IIRC
Just a clarification, I wasn't clear enough in saying the WGA broke to due to outside cirspoogestances. It wasn't Scott's fault in any way. I just want to pay him to redesign it stronger for me.
Summit box arrived last night! The catch can is a little "under-equipped". Basically, the bolts that hold it down go into the can (can you say "leaks") and there was only 1 fitting, but 2 holes. Oh well, the breather on top and the siphon on the bottom are awesome and it was worth the money. So I'm thinking, plug the intake PCV outlet, run a line from the block where the breather is to 1 hole in the can, and another line from the valve cover to the can. No need for any PCV valves or vacuum leaks. Sound good?
And either Summit or I made a mistake on the gauge, I got a SILVER 0-35 psi Ultra-Lite PRO COMP gauge! MUCH nicer then the one I thought I ordered. :D
And the head is now at the machine shop, cross your fingers...
That's how they're usually hooked up from what I've seen.
I had wanted to run an oil catch can but I couldn't find a good open spot on the driver's side to mount it. Where are you putting yours?
I'm not sure yet. It's actually a pretty compact little can. Since I have the original airbox and charcoal can gone and the A/C is gone, I might mount it to the passenger front area and just have long lines. Summit said longer lines tends to prevent a lot of headaches. I have to give it some thought.
*sniff sniff* no pics? :(
Hehehe...
You guys seriously want more pics? Because I take one about every 5 minutes.
load us up pally.
I thought about mounting mine to the pass. side but figured it'd be a pain in the ass with those lines running all the way over to the other side of the engine bay.
So I've been playing around with my catch can, and I think I have to buy a new VC. Granted I own a dozen different stockers, but that hole in the back is messing with me. The Essy VC is relatively cheap and it has no breather hole in back, but a nice tapped hole in the front for a catch can. I got their Jobber kit the other day and they do "custom" orders. I wonder how much $$$ to move the hole to the passenger side and leave the problematic coating off the thing? I'm mounting the catch can on the passenger side, front inner framerail (my airbox and charcoal can are long gone) so that's 1 line down nice and easy. I just have to figure out how to get a line from the bottom-end breather to the can. I kind of want to lose the breather and just tap the block but I'm afraid of metal shavings. Ideas?
The factory oil return hole would be a perfect place now that I think about it,, but I'm guessing you're still running a factory-style oil drain.
BTW the old style turbo cam covers have that little 1/4" nipple near the back, instead of a hole for the breather like the '87-88 covers...can you not use one like that?