Alright.. As some of you know... My car chucked a fuel pickup at me a couple weeks ago.. Well I've replaced that... It ran great! ran being key word. Now its being a cold blooded biatch, and wont start unless I've been cranking it over for a couple minutes, and today.. It just wont kick over and start. Ive let the fuel pump prime... Im holding a good 34psi in fuel pressure... it just wont start..
Im thinking I need new plugs.. but... I wanted to debate about it.. seeing I dont even have 100 miles on these plugs.
What do you guys think?
Dizzy cap, wires and rotor. I changed mine reciently and it starts right up. I also changed the gas in it from Wal-mart gas to Marathon, so that may have something to do with it.
Factory fuel pressure Should be at 39psi maybe that has something to do with it.
I think ya hit it ipsd. He's got a 5.0, so KOEO, Fuel Pump Test pin jumpered, he should have 45 PSI (+/- 2 PSI, I think). Pull 20 inches vacuum (idle vacuum) on the FPR, and it should drop to 35 PSI (+/- 2 PSI). The 6 bangers have higher fuel pressure (who knows why).
Mike- all that stuff has less than 100 miles on it.
it might be a pressure deal.. bad line or some shiznit. idk.. i need to get iot fixed.. ill probably be getting new plugs somtime this weekend.
check your fuel filter....
that too is new also.
Im hoping motorcraft plugs will work nice... fuggin champion pos's
Champion plugs are for lawnmowers.
Check that you do indeed have spark before getting anything, could be a bad coil/wiring.
Scott
Okay soundslike its time to do some trouble shooting. Make shure you are getting spark. Then make sure you have fuel. If you have both of those and it doesn't start then it might be in the timing. I'd say even if you have sprak to get the TFI checked out. I've had it where they throw spark just not throw it constant "aka can get the car to start for a moment or 2 then dies" Most places will test it for free. If it test bad have them test one off the self.
As stupid as it sounds, make sure your battery is fully charged and all the connections are clean and tight.
My '88 is very tempermental. If the battery cables and terminals aren't super clean and redicuously tight, the car will be a pain to start if it starts at all.
spark (check)
Fuel (whew, Check)
battery has full charge..
TFI... thats what Im fuzzy on.. how can I get mine tested? take it to the part store? and have them check it out of the car?
im probably gonna go with the benefit of the doubt.. and buy a new one.
ergh... droppin that tank is a bitch and a half. I had to put my old fuel pump back in on the new sender...the pump i got with the sender was a pos...
fouled sparkplugs now.. but she runs... dunno about the cold start tho... Ill find out tomorow morning.
Best bet will be to try a new one. They're not that expensive, but a royal PITA to install if it's the one mounted on the dizzy. Some folks are using later model dizzies from the EFI 302's in trucks and the remote mounted TFI which has a separate heatsink. This gets the TFI away from engine heat. If it's dizzy mounted, you're gonna have to pull the dizzy to install anyway, so may as well put in new PIP stator too. This would be a good time to check all the bushings/bearings in the dizzy too. If there's any slop in the bushings, you'll get all kinds of weird ignition issues.
You CAN have it tested at some parts chains, but, bear this in mind. If it isn't warm (like right out of the car when they test it), it may or may not show a problem. TFI's are temperamental at best when they get flaky. They don't go bad often, though. The module gets pretty hot while the car is running, especially the ones mounted on the dizzy. There isn't much metal in the dizzy body to dissipate the heat, and besides that, it's getting heat transfer from the block too. I took the one outta my F150 too get it tested, and it was hot enough on the remote heatsink that it was quite uncomfortable to hold on to. So, I know they get very hot under normal conditions. Hot does not equal bad.
maybe 20 psi of fuel pressure is my enemy now..
its gonna be going to the shop next week im done screwin around... i had her running last night..and now shes being a bitch
Im changing the freakin fuel pump today hopefully.
Umm, yep, 20 PSI is not enough. If the 5.0 on this vintage vehicle is the same as the 5.0 in my truck, it's gonna want 35PSI at idle, 45PSI at WOT. Does the fuel rail appear to be getting air too, or no air at all? No air is good. Bubbles are bad. This indicates the pump is pulling air somehow. 20 PSI is very low. The 5.0 needs at least 25PSI for the injector rating, if I remember correctly. The 6 bangers use higher pressure injectors, but I've yet to find an explanation why.
Hey old_paint
where in the world do you get your info from?
Blackjack,, you getting anywhere on this?
Yeah guys, new 225lph and new TFI
started right up after a drink of ether.
I'm guessing those pressure #'s are with the vacuum line hooked up?
runs like a top...
it just takes ether to get it to fuggin start... its going to the shop tomorow... after.. I get back from the BMV :D... yup. gettin my license tomorow..
any Ideas on what the f^ck is keeping this thing from starting when cold? its being a pain. and I have to drive it to shop tomorow.. and.. i'd like to NOT take 20 minutes to start it.. or half a can of starting fluid...
The timing probably needs adjusted.. Im going to do that now.
Mine takes a few min's to start too. Not sure what that ahs to do with it, or even relevent as I have a "different" motor in mine.
Alright, she starts without a hitch now..
New problem.. the oil pressure gauge says 50 psi on startup... after she gets warm... its barely readin peroid... the needle just gets off the stopper. and I KNOW that isnt right...
Its tapping too, sounds like a lifter tap.. it varies in an out at idle.. but when you are driving the old girl you dont hear anything.. runs fine.. pushes 10-15 psi while crusin. It didnt really jump when I tromped on it.. it shakes a bit too. Timing may be the culprit.. not sure..
Im gonna change the oil but I cant decide whats better for old lifters
Im running RP 10W-30..
should I run 10w-40 or 10-50 ?
What's the pressure at 2000 RPM after the car's warmed up? Also,this is a mechanical guage, correct?
15-20 when warm
and yes, it is a mechanical gauge the line needs replaced tho..
revving the engine in park (when warm) gradually climing the rpms i watch my OPG go from 8 or so psi to 24 or so.. aaaaand it drops right off.
what the is going on now?
Plugged up oil "return" holes in the heads / lifter valley, and the sump running dry? Try checking the dipstick several times while it warms up to see if the level keeps dropping along with the pressure. The oil should normally be splashing all over the place when running, soaking the dipstick and making a "normal" reading impossible.
would the the ammount of oil have anything to do with this? She is running a tid bit low..
Changed oil, new filter, and new fittings for my OP Gauge. Shes running great with no chatter or very little (less prominent than before)
Alright, Im sitting at a light.. and now she surges.. she'll idle for a bit normally then drop down and stuggle back up.. and it pops.
Could timing be my culprit?
and quick question.. I painted the slot on the dampener so I could see where it was.. now.. I pull the spout.. and where the hell is that line sopposed to be? dead straight up? Im totally confused.. she runs good stumbles a little bit. The plugs are gapped at .43 and everything is up to snuff.. timing is the only thing I have left to tinker with.
Any clue? Im clueless at the moment.
Hmm mine will do that when she's cold (ie just started up on an under 45* day) and sitting at a light once in awhile. Everything on my car is in tune to factory specs so I just chalk it up to old age. I'm droppimng in a HO and a Mark VII computer in about 6 weeks so I'll see if that solves the on again/off again problem. If not let me know what you find out.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts. Someone in there referred me to here. AND a LOT of experience through testing on my '92 F-150, fixing things the dealerships around here can't seem to fix. There are no real mechanics left at dealerships any more. Since I don't have any OBD-II systems, I refuse to take one to a dealer for service or troubles again. I learned last year that the dealers no longer have OBD-I test equipment (Hmm, a paperclip and the CEL?). Most of the mechanics are young, and if you can't connect a joystick or keyboard to it, they don't have any idea how to fix it. But they sure as heck know how to dig deep in your wallet.