:grinno: I got my new one from vinnie:grinno:
what does it take to swap them. I'm going from this
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/000_1966.jpg)
To this
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/000_1964-1.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/000_1963-1.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/000_1962-1.jpg)
What all is required?
P.S, Fila shot for the road
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/84fila/000_1965-1.jpg)
Also before anyone asks, the newer rotor doesn't fit the dizzy on teh car. I tried but it just doesn't work
well if your original dizzy has that big fat plug on it too then id think you could just yank the old one and put in the new one. does it have the plug?
there could be other differences too, wait for some other opinions.
I believe its a direct swap
It's a direct swap.Mine had the one with the bigger rotor,and I swapped it for a different one like the one I sent you.Now I have the H.O,but it swapped right over with no worries.
P.S.,Did you see my birthday message?
Yeah Vinnie, I saw it. But don't you have to, when going from one to the other, have to rotate the rotor 180 or something like that? Or just pull and drop in?
Note the location of the rotor on the old one,and put the new one in the same spot.
Aight guys, I'll probaly do this today or tomorow. Expect pics soon ( after 3, I have school)
Good luck !!!
Sorry guys, I lied. I just got home. I may wait till tomorow or I may do it now. Pics and time will tell
Just finished. You can feel the difference it made in the car. Really can't explane it. It just runs better.
plug and play,,
im hoping you marked the rotor to the dizzy and the base of the dizzy to the intake with a marker or sumthin,, anyway, congrads on the swap. I was just hoping you were not a tooth off either way.
now you get to take apart the old one and get the pickup out. save it for a spare as well as the TFI.
Lets say I was one tooth off, how bad and whats the fix? It feels different but not really good or bad. I marked it with sharpie, noted where the rotor was, removed, lined up, dropped in then started and gustimaed my timing. Start fine, timing is off but other then that it *seens* ok. Still, it's night and day difference in how it runs.
Couldn't you make up for being off a tooth by rotating the distributor a bit once its installed?
No clue my good man. Scott....?
one tooth off should not be an issue and can be made up like mentioned. i researched this a month or so ago when i came across a diagram of the "1 tooth off theory" as it would effect the pickup or hull effect and posted a topic on here about it. I think one tooth off isnt that bigadeal. The "one tooth off thing and how it effects the little blades that pass thru the pickup was wayyyy over my head and i couldnt figure it out.
should have marked where the pointer was pointing on the dizzy,, then mark the base of the dissy to the engine.
one mark aligns your rotor and the other aligns your advance.
Distributor check and reseting.
remove #1 plug
insert a decent wad of tissue paper tightly in the spark plug hole
quickly bump engine over until you hear the tissue paper pop out
you are now on compression stroke for number one cyl but not tdc
looking directly at the crank pully rotate the crank CW until pointer is on tdc
as you trun your crank, use a narrow screwdriver in the plug hole and touching the piston
as you rotate the crank, the screwdriver will rise as you hold it.
you will feel a flat area where nothing happens then it changes
go back to where you were and line back up to where the piston is tdc.
if the pass valve cover is off, both #1 rockers should be kinda loose
remove dizzy cap and rotor should be pointing directly at number 1 post
if its ahead or behind, you are off and dizzy needs reset.
**if its off by like a half inch or so, then dont pull the dizzy, just adjust by advance or retarding.
The proper or typical look of a dizzy is the rotor point at number one post and the TFI pointing towards
the drivers front corner. (this is just my opinion). After the dizzy is checked, you have room to advance either
direction.
RESET
remove 1/2 bolt,keeper at the base of dizzy
remove tfi plug
the dizzy will be tight to get out at first cause of the oring at the base
be careful if you do not know whos been in your motor before.
its possible the oil pump shaft may not have the keeper on
if it does not, the oil pump shaft may fall down into the timing cover/oil pan
if this happens, your screwed.
there is no way to tell if the little slip on keeper is installed or not.
you can only tell if the motor is opened up.
Gently rotate the dizzy back and forth while trying to lift it.
lube up the oring with grease at the base of the dizzy and the hole
when you get it out, guess / estimate your location/orientation of the rotor.
its a good idea to look at other engines as to how their dizzy sits
the orientation of the tfi is important for setting the timing later.
drop the dizzy and fully seat it.
check to see if it will be point to number 1 post
if it does, snug on the keep / bolt and use your timing light to adjust.
set timing to 10deg btdc or whatever you prefer.
**sometimes you may have to nudge the crank either cw or ccw a wee bit to get the hex shaped
oil pump shaft to mate up inside the dizzy shaft. this gets tricky and if you cant get the dizzy to seat,
you gotta keep tinkering with the crank either direction while trying to seat the dizzy.
Ok, project for tomorow. Will one tooth really be THAT far off? I'm fairly confident It's close if not right.