well i had a ticking and opened up both valves covers and let teh engine run. every valve was pushing oil on the passenger side so it was good and on teh drivers side the only valve that was not pushing up oil was #4 going from left to right. the rod doesnt look bent and there is spring action. a friend told me its clogged and that i could spray carb cleaner in the hole from were teh oil pushing out on the valve so i can un clog it. does anyone kno what else i can do. help is very appreciated. by the way happy new year!!!!
Pull the rocker and the pushrod, see if you can see or blow through the pushrod then go from there.
Scott
spank that lifter for not doing its job
thanks scott ill do that
In 1985 I was purchased a Mercury Meteor with a 351C have the exact same problem on ONE valve, I slacked the rocker, putted out the pushrod, and checked, not blocked, and I don't wanted to disassemble the entire intake to remove the lifter...
I tryed a stuff for that at Canadian Tire, and after 2-3 Days and sped 3-4 rockers :dunce: the problem was solved...
Generally if is not the pushrod blocked, it's a blocked lifter...
yea my lifter is blocked so i bought one that i gotta pik up tomorrw and hopefully this bs will all be over.. hey does anyone have the amount of lbs for how much the stuff has to be torqed back into place??
25ft/lbs max.
if you have regular rockers that were stock.
NOW I HAVE A QUESTION:grinno:
why only 1 lifter,,, why not just bite the bullet and get the whole set?
I agree with JCASSITY, a whole set of lifters is not very very expensive, and this will refresh this part of Your engine...
This is the same if You change only a one faulty spark plug on You're engine :grinno:
i was gonan get teh whole set for 180 but den its a 5.0 so and i rather spend more $$ on anew engine .. liek i dunt plan on having this engine for a logn time in my car in teh future i plan on buying a more powerful motor with a much better tranny a better rear end. i was thinking of changing it but im like ehhh i dunno
my friend who is kinda old worked for chevy and he told me and suggested to buy only 1 for the amount of money .. i todl him wtas my best bet and he told me 1... i woulda bought teh whole set but i dunno .. well i still have time to buy it cuz i gotta go pik it up 2morrow.. well see wat happenes
in the words of jeremyb
"wiskey tango foxtrot"
i can get a rering kit for 200!!!
were these special lifters or sumthin? cause there aint no way id do that with a stock engine.
wait wat do you mean??? im not spending 180 on one lifter man.. i said if i were to buy the kit id pay 180 .. what do you mean im confused
o0h did you think i said 1 lifter for 180?? haha no way man he told me a compelet kit for 180 .. thats the reason why he said to buy one only,, so i would spend less man
no,, i thought that was the cost for 16 lifters,, im like holly .
this was the first time you said the maigic word,,,,"KIT". Obviously that means all lifters and associated gaskets. Big difference in automotive terminology,, sorry if i confussed you.
a set 16 stock lifters dont cost 180.
The kit probably will.
yeah yeah its the kit that he told me that would be 180 lol sorry i shoulda said that
$180 Still seems a bit high unless it included a complete gasket set.
Scott
A trick just in case, I never attempted this, but it's logical....
Take a rubber hose will fit in Your pushrod, and at the other end of the hose apply around 100lbs of air pressure, do this with the pushrod firmly in place with Your hand, this will "probably" help You, it's a stupid idea, but before opening the engine I'll try this...
You know you have to remove the intake manifold to change the lifters right? If you're going to do that much work you might as well change the whole set. You can get a whole set from Summit for $120 and they're Ford Racing pieces to boot.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS%2DM%2D6500%2DR302&N=700+4294925232+4294892901+400070+4294892863+115&autoview=sku
they are high because they are roller lifters. the roller followers that I bought for mine cost about $12 each times 8 is about $96 180 sounds about right for stock replacement parts
gezz guys,, no ones reading page two here clearly,, we settled that whole "set" and "kit" issue.
I know. I was just saying that he could get a new set of lifters and a gasket set for less than that $180 "kit" costs.
well guess wat guys... i ended up buying the set of 16 lifters for 10 dollars a peice .. and i have teh gasket set as well it cost all together around 170-175. i took out the intake and lower intake, and wow found a freakin charcol in that shiznit lol... big ass lump of carbon. im cleanin the outt of it. and i just painted my itake and cleaned that ou ttoo.. i found out why my motor was actin up as well... i had lots of hoses that were cracked and were already torn from wear and tear. so hopfully this motor will run smoothly. ill keep u updated. thanks alot for the concern guys .
your kinda lucky in a way. your gonna end up with a totally different running motor.
i think so too hopefully in a good way.. well everything is taken out and not pu tin yet. i been finding chunks of carbon liek crazy. i cleaned the heads and in teh middle of teh block. then i been cleanin the lower inatke too the metal. i pained teh top intake black too after i cleaned it. i foudn the clogged lifter and somehow it has dirt and some silicon i guess from something orginial on the motor. I also found out that the crank case filter was original and clogged. I didnt know they sell that and so i bought one. i never seen anyone here change it either. i also changed the pcv valve. and bought new thermostate, not a cheap one. also a new fuel pressure regulator. and new hoses all around . all teh hoses were cracked and had leaks. SInce my brotehr had his old gastank brands new when he has his 88 t bird he took it off before he junked it. so im gonna swap a new gas tank with a new float as well with a new fuel filter and better fuel pump. I hope this motor turns out way way better then before. this motor will also have a oil change. o0o man cant wait lol
well guys today everything is in!!!! and car started up and was ticking for a while which is supsosed to happen and then no more ticking. all the lifter was pushing oil in the beggin accept one on the drivers side. so took out the pushrod blew through it and put it back on and oil starting coming up. but the pressue of oil pushing up wasnt at all the same as teh other ones. then later on it look as if it had a little more pressure. Will it go to to being normal after some driving? Also is there anyway that i can be preciusie on adjusting the valves? non of them tick but can i do better?? what else can i do for the valves?? let me know thanks
you could shim the springs, i made mine and they are sort of horseshoe shaped,, i can send a pic if you want.
this will let put a tiny bit more presure on your spring and help them seat better.
if the heads are off, put a wd40 down inside the intake holes before you button it up. it would be ideal to do the same on the exhaust ports as well. the oil will have time to soak in and bust up carbon on the valve seats and send it down wind.
im not really sure what you can do to the valves without the heads off. that kit you have might have come with valve stem seals,, you could put those on if you rotate each piston TDC one at a time and install them.
i hope you check the pvc hose for cloggage as well.
follow my diy link if your interested in deleting the smog pump/gutting the cats. its based on the 3.8 but all the line colors you should worry about are the ones for the smog pump (black) and the bypass valves leading to the exhaust which are (tan). perhaps those parts are the reason you had carbon build up in the first place, maybe one of the bypass or purge valves is defective. Just put suction on them and see if they hold.
well i changed EVERY HOSE / VACcum LINE AND everythign has been cleaned up. starte di ttoday and now its runnin good i plan on driin it 2morrow