I actually had to take my wife's car to work today...
Cranks just fine . . I made sure to hit the reset button on the fuel pump, just in case.
Of course, it was also RAINING.... so I didn't get to do much diagnosis.
Cranks quite happily, but never catches. I tried pushing on the schrader valve to see if I had fuel pressure, and was rewarded with a healthy squirt. I can also hear the pump run for a second or two when I put the key in the run position before starting.
I *think* I'm getting no spark, but wasn't able to really test anything this morning. The car was running perfectly before.
Checked the manual, in case it was something silly like a fuse. Well, there's no fuse for ignition, but there is a fusible link for "ignition circuit" I think. The manual helpfully states that this is near the starter relay.
Or, at least it would be helpful if I had any idea where the starter relay was located!
Anyway, I figure once I know where the fusible link is, I can check that easily enough.
But is there anything else I should look for? I'm trying to figure what to play with, change, or whatever, because I need to get this car running!
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated! If further info is needed, I'll be more than happy to post.
Thanks in advance everyone...
If it has no spark it's likely the iginition module on the dist...
Wow, you sound like me, I to had the crank no start deal, and I to took the fuel pressure bath. When I turned my key to start I could get it to run and if I let off the key just enough to dis-engage the starter I could keep it running, of course had no lights, wipers, or any other comforts. I had replaced the ignition switch and was at the end of my rope before I decided since everything else was fine it had to be a bad switch. After all this I found on another thread that there had been a bad batch of switches made by Wells, and sold thru Autozone among other stores. Well me with all my luck had not only gotten my switch from Autozone but also got one made by Wells. I ordered one from Ford cost $17 and has been fine now. My new "junk" switch was not bad always though. Sometimes worked perfect but others left me sitting I did it for about a month so got used to the adventure. Good luck.
Hrmm, well, I was actually concerned about a possibly bogus Wells switch, but the thing is, right now, it's never catching at all, so the let-off-but-still-slightly-into-START isn't working for me.
I thought it might be the ignition module as well, or possibly a bad coil. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to actually do a little diagnosing.
But, just in case... can anyone point me to where exactly the Starter Relay is so that I can look at the Ignition Feed fusible link. I figure it couldn't hurt to eliminate the stuff that can be visually diagnosed.
follow "+" cable from battery and it hooks right to it
TFI module
And for the acronym deprived (um, such as myself!), what's TFI?
Thick Film Injection Module. It is the rectangular module, with a ?5? pin connector on one end mounted on the side of the distrubutor body. On some cars it is more appropriatly mounted on the side of the upper radiator mount for better cooling.
It takes a ?7/32? socket (or some very unusual size) and a bit of finness to remove. They are a common failure point on fords, much more likely than an ignition coil.
Test the coil with an ohm meter, if there are no shorts and the numbers check out, the TFI or wireing is likely at fault.
Take the TFI of and take it to a parts store they should be aqble to test it for you.
Left fender, between the battery and the strut tower, under that big flat plastic cover thingy. The coil's under there too, in case you want to do the old "hold the ignition wire near the block and see if it sparks" test.
Keep us posted of what cures it
Well, I got my tools out and got ready to get into it...
But, just for yuks, I stuck the key in and turned.
Wouldn't you know it? A slight sputter, then it started right up.
So, I'm sure if anyone could've seen my face, the mix of confusion and I'm-not-sure-I-should-be-relieived probably would've been worth a few laughs.
Ah well, I'm thinking I should probably change the module anyway. Unfortunately my 7/32 socket won't reach all the way down to the head of the bolt/capscrew/whatever-it's-called, so I'll have to actually go get a deep socket.
And joy of joys, since I have to rotate the distributor to get to the second capscrew holding the module on, I figured time to break out the rachet-socket-u-joint-thingy. Except, hm, that must've walked with some of my other tools when a certain ex-roommate left a few years back. I should probably get a proper distributor wrench anyway, as wrestling with a ratchet-extension and a u-joint isn't all that fun.
Er, that *is* a half-inch bolt for the distributor hold-down, right?
I wonder if it'll be typical that I spend more on the tools than on the actual parts I replace for this thing... Nah, the radiator alone made up for it!
Well hope you have better luck than I did. I replaced the Autozone Ign switch with a Ford one and all was well.....for awhile. It started doing the same again. Dont know if it helps you but I will tell you what fixed mine. I was still able to hold the ignition and keep it running but while trying to find the problem I ran down the battery, put my jiffy jump on it and noticed on the negative terminal side I got a small puff of smoke when I had my kid try to start it. I could take the cable in my hand and move it and do all sorts of stuff from make the pump run to random clicks from diffrent shiznit. I took the neg terminal off to check and the cable literally fell out of it. Before this it looked perfect and I had lights, radio, etc to make you think all was well. Changed the terminal and now its fine. Dont know if it will help your case but something to check and if not maybe your solution will be as cheap. Good luck
There is a tool for taking the TFI off. Your parts store probably has one. They are not very expensive.
Try the simple stuff first. You mentioned rain. Possibly vapour lock. Moisture in the gas lines will cause it to either stall out or not start. Then seems fine, but problem returns. Common syndrome up in the great white north where if your gas tank is low for a while and it gets cold, moisture condensates. Try a bottle of gasline antifreeze for fuel injected cars. Its a cheap fix if it works.
Hmmm... could be. It was raining when it happened (although that was the first time it ever happened, and we get a LOT of rain here in New Jersey). Still, I tried again today, started right up as if nothing had ever been wrong.
I'll give the gas-line antifreeze a shot, but I think I may pick up the module (and tools) anyway, as a just-in-case thing.
not sure you have this figured out yet or not but might not hurt to check the ignition switch. the big square one on the bottom side of the steering column that the wires plug into. just pull the bottom cover off the steering column and you can see it.
the one in my car was bad when I got it the plastic piece the wire plug plugs into would actually pull away from the metal casing a little and cause it to loose spark. not all the things would make a connection in the box. I could tap it at first and it would fix it. after awhile it got to where I had to change it.
not sure about you but I bang my knees on the steering column all the time getting in and out of the car. you may have bumped it enough to cause it to loosen if that switch is going bad
not sure itll help but its a thought
While possible, I hope not! I'd just changed the switch about 2 weeks ago. But, it is one of the infamous Wells ignition switches, so I guess anything's possible! I'll be keeping my eye on that one, as well.
I remember about 10 years ago that if I let my spark plug wiring go a little too long on my Ranger it would act erratic like that. As long as the weather was relatively dry it was ok. Then on a rainy slightly cold day it would not start or start/run for a while then die and refused to start again. Once the moisture in the air dropped a little it would restart and run fine. Don't know if that helps. Many of the parts stores will check your TFI for you. Just take it in with you, it doesn't have to be on the car. Be careful when testing components in the ignition system, its possible to wreck your TFI if you perform some tests incorrectly. A Haynes or other manual is a very good investment.
POST codes from the computer can help. You don't have to own a scan tool to get them. I bought a cheap scan tool years ago but I think somewhere in the Haynes manual or on site here [forgive me for not doing a search] you'll find instructions on how to do this. Good luck, tell us what if anything you find. :)