I've done my swap to a 5.0 HO...but not completely done because I need to find a home for these two wires from the green connector near the EEC (computer). According to this diagram from Fordfuelinjection.com, the two wires I'm referring to are the ones that go to the VSS, both + (G/BK) and - (PK/O). However, when I reference my Haynes Mustang Electrical Diagram, that G/BK (which Haynes describes as BK/W) wire goes to the clutch switch on a 2.3, but it has nothing about where it goes on a 5.0---as if the 5.0 does not need it. The PK/O (which Haynes describes as R) goes to the fuel pump inertia switch.
So which is right?!?! I need to know because I think it's keeping my car from running as it should....This is driving me :crazy: !!!
Any help is appreciated.
Which EEC are you using??? SD or MAF?? I don't think the speed sensor makes any difference to a speed densety system, but the mass air systems will throw a code if it doesn't receive the pulse...
The '88 Bird harness usually has the speed sensor wires in place to feed the EEC, the earlier ones do not... I had to add them when I did my swap, as I have a '87 harness...
I've added a couple of pictures of the connector I'm referring to. It is a mass-air mustang harness from between 1988 and 1993, I don't know what year exactly--I think it's an 1989. As you can see in the pics, the connector is just above the EEC connector and holds up to 8 wires. I only have the Check Engine Light, HEGO power and the fuel pump wired in right now. But since I am having idle problems I thought it may be due to these other missing wires.
Anyone have any better wiring diagram?
Thanks.
you shouldnt have idle problems without the vss, i did my mass air h.o swap and drove it for a year before i hooked up the wires. i think coolcats has a wiring diagram for that also
Cougarman,
Where exactly did you hook them in? under the dash? I'm not sure where to do it...
Thanks.:o
I just added the female contacts to the 60 pin EEC plug(they already had the wires, were from the old 2.3 harness) and connected the wires from the VSS to them.
But as cougarman says that won't cause you a problem... I ran a '86 Stang I converted to MA and never did connect them, ran fine...
Have you checked for possible codes???
I have checked for codes, and I get 67 and 95.
From Tech. Bulletin #089
Ford service codes 1983-1990
67-OFF --Neutral drive switch is open, or A/C was on during self test.
67-OFF-AXOD--AXOD neutral pressure switch failed closed.
67-MEM--Clutch switch failed. Should give neutral drive gear signal when clutch is depressed.
95-ALL--Fuel pump power circuit has a problem.
OFF=KOEO
MEM=Continuous codes/KOEO
ALL= Displayed in all test sequences.
Hey cougarman, I was curious what caused you to connect those wires after a year...
im betting you can find a ford part number tag on the harness somewhere starting with the letter E or F,, now supply the second digit and you know what year it is.
e= 1980's
f= 1990's
the second digit is the actual ones valure of the year
My engine block is an E0AE so that means its a 1980 block
my heads are C6OE so they are 1966 heads
Not trying to hijack, but jgonza2, what did you connect for your check engine light? For some reason, this is one circuit I never figured out...
Also, could someone quick throw down what they did for the HEGO ciruit? I'm 95% sure I did mine right (just connected the 12v power on the bird side to the power wire going to the HEGO harness on the stang side)...
My CEL works after my swap, but I dunno exactly why... Guess cause if the color matched, I connected it...
The code 95 is because there is no input to the EEC from the voltage feeding the F/P, makes no difference to actual operation(assumin' the F/P is getting voltage).
Booksix, I've got the full digital cluster, and I utilized the "Check Turbo" light that sits to the left of the tachometer (see pic). I did that by connecting the PK/G wire from the green connector over to the instrument cluster (BROWN plug, position 5).
thanks jgonza2, I'll check that out...
as for the other stuff... I've also just found some dead end wires (now that I'm going back over my connections). I guess my situation is NOW different cause about 7 months ago I tore my car down and put all new motor, trans, brake/lines/booster/etc... in and now I'm removing the extra wiring that has been tucked in my passenger side fenderwell (I think I'm dropping 100 lbs!! lol, ok, but really it's a lot of wire). Anyway, now that I'm pulling this stuff, the black/white wire (HEGO ground) and the grey/yellow wire (HEGO power) go no where (maybe I've got it wrong, but that means I've had no O2's for 7 months...?).
So, I traced these two in the old cluster of wires I removed. The HEGO power goes to one of the relays that were mounted next to the vac tree (I thought they were both for ABS) and the HEGO ground goes to the 'inline 7' connector which I believe previously plugged into the abs MC or booster somewhere... hmm...?
I'm wondering now, is the black/white wire (HEGO ground according to fordfuelinjection.com) found at the green mustang connector really just a ground that I can ground out?!? And where do I find my HEGO power now? Should I add a fuse link from the old cluster of wires and run a new heavy gauge wire to it? If so what size fuse link? I also read somewhere that some people just tap into a 12v ign source. But with such a heavy gauge wire, I'd think that's a no-no. What do you guys think?
New find: grey/yellow splits on the other side of the relay and goes to the grey 4 pin connector which I believe was over by the M/C. perhaps this was where the 2.3 HEGO harness connected (which still doesn't explain where the 12v comes from unless it's from that relay)
Also, I have two plain tan wires coming from the mustang harness (green connector) going to a yellow/black wire (at the grey 6 pin TC connector) which goes through that old chunk of removed wiring and ends at the TC self-test connector (which is now removed). I'm gonna check some diagrams, but if anyone's got a clue for any of this it'd save me some time (and hopefully help others)...
Seems to me you cut out a wee bit too much.
No, I removed everything that was not connected to anything for the last 7 months. Which oddly enough, was when the car has run the best since I did the swap 6 or 7 years ago (but that's because I had a somewhat unknown/mixed up motor consisting of some kind of SO heads, flat top pistons, 19 llb injectors and a mixture of sensors - it was a kind of unknown when I bought it so we just took the guys word that it was complete - plus the price was right).
But anyway, basically, i removed all the excess... and anything I needed, I would add back in... why keep a golf ball sized chunk of useless wires and connectors when only 2-3 of the are necessary? Anyway, I guess I'll keep working on it... I'm just trying to understand why the HEGO power goes to that relay and the HEGO ground goes to the ABS brake stuff so I can understand better before rewiring.
Ok, I know I'm just sort of talking to myself (hope you guys don't mind) but it helps me think... and maybe someone reading this will find errors in my thoughts.
Anyway, I found that 4 pin connector to actually be still on the car (right by the 2 8 pin connectors we all know - greay and black) and it didn't go to the 2.3 HEGO harness but rather into the passenger compartment - so this will be my HEGO power and will even use the stock plug to keep a neat look. One ciruit down, 2 or so to go...
Hey Jgonza, I was thinking (cause I already got confused by it) that you may not want to use the fordfuelinjection diagram because it is specifically for the Ford Racing Performance harness (which I believe is a generic EFI harness for engine swapping) unless you are using this harness...
I was wondering if you could upload the haynes diagram (the one that matches the fordfuelinjection.com one you uploaded in your first post).
Also, about the BK/W wire: I traced it to pin 46 and according to my diagram, it goes from there to the self-test connector, barometric pres sensor, EGR, TPS, ACT, ECT, and the neutral sensing switch. All but the last are already wired into the ECU harness so perhaps the BK/W found at the green connector needs to go into the 'bird to that neutral sensing switch (which I have yet to locate on my diagram). But at the same time, the pin LOCATION of the wire on the fordfuelinjection.com (color not matching, just location on the green connector) diagram says this wire may go to the VSS +...?
Ok, well, I don't know where everyone went, but as a last update, I finally figured my entire CEL problem was a burned out bulb and figured I got all my connections right except the black/white (which I know 95% that it needs to go into the neutral sensing switch cause the ONLY code I'm pulling is 67 - "clutch switch open/trans in gear"). So if anyone knows where to send the blk/wht or wants to know what I've done with my wiring to have everything as the 5.0 ECU wants it (so you're not throwing F/P codes, or whatever, all the time) let me know in the next few days before I put everything back together...
btw, for those that have gone to regular suspension (not prc) and have vac assist brakes: I didn't have to put ANY of that wiring back in after all! So I can pull it all from the engine compartment (making it WAY cleaner) and all the way back to the rear seat (pulling computers, too).