does anyone have any tips or tricks that might be needed while I am changing fuel pumps? I've done electric pumps before but never on a ford. Thanks.
well let's start with the obvious.. the emptier the gas tank.. the better..
Yeah, Mine died on me when I was pulling into a gas station. I thought that I had just ran out of gas, WRONG!!! It sucked.
lol I know to have it empty. I'm trying to run it as low as I can but is there anything that I need to know about dropping the tank and disconnecting the fuel lines?
um, use a lot of lubercant, if your bolts are rusty. Make sure that when you change the fuel pump, that you don't break any of the ends on the fuel lines. Fuel will run out of the end that goes to the engine (quite a bit actually), so grab a pan for it. When you put it back together, use some electrical greese in the connector, and have the filter on the end of the pump. Also, you might want to change the fuel filter.
Have a buddy on hand.
gonna make my girlfriend help me :pbb:
vacuum the top before you take the ring off to get the pump out. Lots of can fall in the tank. When you lower the tank, don't forget the little bolt next the fill tube...
Oh yeah, a motorcycle jack works wonders too!
a jack is a must under the tank, and like bob said, there is a bolt that retains the fuel fill tube, undo that also and kinda pull / wiggle it out so it dosnt tear the rubber seal inside your trunk, then undo the tank straps and let it rest on the raised jack. then slowly lower the jack making sure it dosnt slip off letting it rest on some jack stands, or stacked wood or bricks (just to have enough room to get under there and leave slack in the pump/sender wires and fuel lines.) keep an eye on the fuel lines, and fuel pump/sending unit wires on top you dont want to stretch or pull them to hard. make sure you have plenty of lube too, because the retainer ring for the pump / sender is always rusted to hell, along with the strap bolts. i used a bras punch / hammer to beat the ring untill it spun off, but a old screw driver works good to lol.
tank is on the ground. were there any changes between 87 and 88 as far as the tank and senders? if anyone remembers my car is an 87 and an 88 back half being an 87 and front an 88 dont ask :shoothead:
No difference in the two years. Amazing what difference a new pump will make.
When I had ro replace the one in my truck, it was like a new engine, it had that much more power.
Surprised hell outta me :beatyoass:
Is this a High pressure Pump 40 Psi. or is another pump somewhere..? Oh well won't fit my Bronco II tank it is deeper and the Gauge is attached.. But it will run the 302 motor.
heh, I never let you guys know that I got it back together and its running. but its still not running right. I think there is something plugged in the lers maybe carbon bridged. might try some degreaser and alot of water and see what happens.
Disconnect your exhaust prior to the lers and go for a drive. If power returns you'll know that it's exhaust related.
I'll give that a try when the rain lets up.
today I noticed that I had something leaking from right under my gas door, so I looked up in there and it was coming from the seal where the fill tube goes into the tank. when I reinstalled the tube I lubed the seal with lubriplate and I thought everything was fine since it went together easy. is there a replacement seal from ford for this? or am I just screwed?
If there is one available you better grab the part number off of it. Otherwise post a wanted thread. If you haven't found one by the time I swap my tank out you can have that one. Are you sure the tube is positioned back to the way it was? I've never had a problem with seal... then again, I never lubed it either.
I'm pretty sure that I got it back in there like it was all of the bolts are lined up and it fits properly. do you think that it might be leaking because of the lube that is still there?
I wouldn't think so. Check the seal to make it's seated properly. I've pushed mine in the tank before. =/
If you don't have a idiot parts man at the dealer, the rubber donut for the filler neck should not be a problem. Not sure, but I believe it is the same on most Ford tanks(IE Mustang).
i used this:
F4ZZ-9072-DA FUEL FILL PIPE GASKET/SEAL
cut the raised triangle out of the trunk floor ;)
Why would I want to do that?
That part looks up as a Mustang part - it worked for you huh?
yup worked for me
Just one quick question. How did the new pump go in? Since I'm doing a HO swap in the spring I guess I need a new pump for the HO since mine apparently won't deliver enough fuel. Did you use a mustang pump, and how did it fit? I thought that the T-bird pump was bigger and the Mustang pump didn't fit quite right in the tank.
the pump fit kinda funny and I had to splice the wires and heatshrink them but it works and I havent had any problems.
The pump itself is the same between mustangs and thunderbirds.
I have a mustang pump in my car, and all you have to do is go buy the fuel sock/strainer for your car, and its a direct replacement. Like Graham said, you will have to cut and splice the pigtail, since nearly all aftermarket pumps use their own plug, and they come with the pigtail. I do suggest you solder, and use some good heat shrink.
Well time to buy a pump. Can I get the strainer(sock) new at a parts store or is it a dealer only item?
I used the sock that came with the kit. the sock that was on my pump was part of the pump.
BECAUSE YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TO DROP YOUR TANK AGAIN!!!!!!
no thanks, I'm not lazy ;) plus mine has been cut on too much already *shakes head*
does anyone know if you can pull the fill tube without completely dropping the tank? I need to replace the seal but I dont want to drop the tank again to do it if I dont have to.
that was my idea,, did that bout 3 years ago and so did a couple other guys here.
as for pulling the fill tube,, open the fuel door and youll see how the tube is installed,, and the small single screw on the inner part of the rear quarter holding it there. IM sure once you look at it you will see how it goes in and comes out.