All,
When I got my car 2 years ago, the previous owner said that the rear window had been replaced. The power line for the rear defogger was connected on the passenger side, but hanging loose on the driver's side.
I tried turning it on (the light indicator comes on), and then used a voltmeter between the hanging contact, and the rear window where it would go, and I got voltage.
Got that Permatex electrically conductive adhesive that's made for this sort of thing, but lo and behold, the repair doesn't work. Oh, the connector/contact is now firmly affixed to the window, but the actual defrosting doesn't happen.
Is there anything in particular I should check for? Is the Permatex stuff known to work/not work/be tempermental? Am I just a klutz (most likely)? If I try again with another electrically conductive adhesive, how will I remove the contact without messing up the wires on the glass already?
Thoughts/suggestions on what to do with this are appreciated.
I have no problems with my rear defroster. Don't know what you're talking about and what were you doing in my car anyway?
Seriously, Is the a way you can solder the conector? That would be the reliable way. I havent trusted anything from Permatex since the 70s.
Only every other line of my defroster in my 88 works.... the 83 doesn't have one. :P
On my '88, theres about 4 or 5 lines right smack in the middle that don't work. Good thing I got the TC rear glass put back...
I've given up completely on having a vehicle with a working defroster, 6 in a row and none of them work or only a couple did, luckily the sprint is small enough that once its warm it will actually defrost it with the heater.
:rollin:
I don't know. I would be afraid that the temperature would possibly crack the glass, or maybe burn off that coating on the lines. But if soldering would work, I might see if I could get a place to do it (me + high-temp-stuff = bad)
I wouldn't be surprised to find that *some* of my lines don't work . . but the fact that I was getting voltage read through the multitester made me pretty sure that at least ONE of the lines had to be working. Still, I think I might do a bit of double-checking...
I soldered the conection on a toyota window before. I had to use a heatgun/hairdryer to heat up the window around the area. Then I got out the soldering iron and made the conection. Wasn't to hard just took for ever to get the window warmed up. Warming up the window helps to even out the heat and not mess up the window. Also 3m makes a kit to fix the broken lines. I've sold it to many body shops and they love it. They say it workes great.
I have the same problem with the connector on my driver side not being connected. Well... the real problem is that the idiot before me cut OFF the connector. :beatyoass: But I was successful in soldering the bare wire back onto the window. It broke free a few months after that, but it worked for a while. I think I need to get another connector on the wire before I try it again.