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42
Engine Tech / Re: engine shut down / restart all within 1/2 second
Last post by Mikey97D -
I had a distributor begin to seize in a 351W ('79 TBird) that did some wonky similar stuff once or twice before it seized and took out the cam gears.  Could this be a change in timing to cause this affect rather than the motor actually stalling for a moment?
44
Engine Tech / Re: engine shut down / restart all within 1/2 second
Last post by EricCoolCats -
My first '84 ended up having the infamous first-year EEC-IV processor cut-out. It did just that...cut out for a split second, then the car came back on (3.8L V8/C-5 transmission). Not real fun when turning at an intersection. The car had an extended warranty and it more than paid for itself...EGR, TPS, distributor, TFI module, etc. were all replaced. Think they did the EEC relay also. Finally they gave in and got a new EEC-IV processor and that finally did the trick.

So maybe something in the EEC itself? A lot of times the capacitors go, as there are lots of services that will recap them now.

Otherwise I'm all for the ignition switch or the TFI replacement and go from there. It could be a ground issue somewhere also...like the block to firewall, something like that. It sounds kinda major so you'd think it would be kinda easy to find but I know how sneaky Fords can be, especially with 1980s wiring...
45
Engine Tech / engine shut down / restart all within 1/2 second
Last post by jcassity -
This thread serves as my resurection of solving a **VERY*** old problem with my 1990 ford bronco 351 full size.
Recently i got a call from someone i met 10 years ago when i randomly stopped by someones house,, and gave them one of my many Foxthuderbirdcougarforum buisness cards.  He had a MKVII  HO 5.0 1991

so i finally found someone who has the very exact same problem as me on my bronco,, his mkvii is doing the same thing.

symptom........................
while driving my bronco the engine will shut down and come back on in a flash of less than a second.  in a stick shift on my bronco,, this is very very violent and you see and feel the nose drop and pop back up,, so fast my human reaction to let off the gas pedal is not even present.. so ,, when it recovers,, im still the same depth into the gas which makes recovery just as voilent. 
In the other guys situation with the MKVIII,, he has an aod so t he vent is somewhat buffered and masked.. 

We both see our tac decending towards zero but recovery is so fast  it gets back to work perfectly fine.

I have my speculations now on may directions i can go to troubleshoot but... i am here now asking if anyone has this issue and what solved it.  in my case i have no code that points to this ,, thinking its so quick the eec doesnt log it in continuous or on demand codes.

thoughts?
46
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by Chuck W -
OK, back to the wiring.

Seeing as I got pretty much most of the bulk of the wiring to the bulkhead connector from the engine bay, I need to get in the car and sort out the wiring from inside or the rear of the car to the bulkhead connector.

The throttle pedal and the DataLink Connector are at the dash, but the rest (Fuel and emissions) is at the rear. That means I needed to first tackle the nasty bit of removing the interior and headliner, as I knew it was all going to be gross.

I started to get the headliner out first, because I knew it was going to make a mess.
I was right.




So much mouse poop. :yuck:
I'll be able to reuse the front board, but the rear one I'll probably have to make a replacement out of ABS sheet. The mouse nests were worse back there.

After that, I pulled out the rest of the trunk area panels and the rear seat.


It's amazing how much dust/dirt is on EVERYTHING inside this car behind all of the panels. Gonna take some time just to clean that all up.

I did unfortunately find some soft spots in the floor under the rear seat base.


Kind of not surprised, as there was water ingress due to door strikers not having bushings on them.  Should be an easy repair, though.
Both lower rear quarter panel areas behind the rear wheels was also full of mouse house stuff. No corrosion, though.

I took all of this out, as I needed to trace the stock FP wiring back and de what I needed to do for the new stuff.
The original FP relay is on the PS rear, and the inertial switch is on the DS rear. This thing also had the dual FP set-up, which is getting replaced with one.
Going to remove all of the wiring to the front pump and rework the rest for the new pump set-up.
48
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by Chuck W -
More work.

Worked on getting wires to the firewall bulkhead connector together, as that was the last of the underhood wiring I needed to sort out, aside from adding connectors to the MAF sensor and the AC pressure transducer. I don't know where those will live yet, so I'm holding off a bit.

I filled 27 of the 29 locations on the connector. This is all stuff inside or at the rear of the car (fuel system, etc)





I went ahead and populated 3 extra wires and I have the stuff for the cruise control, just in case I can get that to work.

I'm planning on running the bulkhead wiring outside the engine bay and pop in behind the pass strut tower. Gonna need to open up that hole a bit though.


The connector will be mounted in the same location of the old factory ECU wiring. I'll be making an adapter to mount the Deutsch connector.
The wiring is still all open right now, as I want to get stuff together so I can power things up and get the tune flashed and make sure the car starts. Then I'll tidy it all up.

Going back to the CC plates.

I needed to redo the risers for the poly bushings, but haven't been able to get any material yet.

However, I had these old things.


They were a couple of fixed-caster mounts I made up at least 20 years ago. They were probably on my old '84 XR-7. These were a less aggressive version of what I have on the TBird.
I just needed part of the riser, so I chopped them off.




Just need to finish weld and coat them, and they're all set.
(I noticed that one of the centers is slightly lower than the other, but for what this car will be doing, that couple mm difference isn't going to matter)

Next is to sort out the wiring from the bulkhead connector on the inside of the car.

49
User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
Last post by Chuck W -
So, I mentioned in the LTD thread that I was going to do up a new set of CC plates for this thing.

My SCS order showed up today.

50
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
Last post by Chuck W -
Well, it was supposed to be raining all day today, but it didn't. Got a little time out in the garage.

I wound up getting some CC plates for this thing.


They're Speedmaster brand that I got off ebay. Not 100% impressed with them, and I wasn't too keen on using a mono-ball set-up on this car. I figured I could live with it for now...until I decided not to.
I wanted to use a poly bushing set-up like I have in the TBird for years, and have with the BBK CC plates in the LTS. So, what did I do? Grabbed the calipers and opened up the CAD software.  :giggle:
I reverse-engineered the bushing tower plate  and will weld up a replacement set of those for these, with a tube modified for the poly bushings.
While I was CAD-ing, I've been wanting to replace the OLD extreme caster plates I have the the TBird, so I redid some base and stud plates that will fit the TBird. Put in an order with Sendcutsend.com and will have parts to redo these, as well as make a new set for the TBird. (More on all of that when I get to it)

Back to the airbox project, I had parts arrive for that.




It's the 2015-18 Mustang air box. I think I have a plan to mod it and be able to use it. Going to mess with that later.

Most of the time today was spent getting wiring in place.


I have the fuse box temp mounted in the location and have begun getting wires where they need to go.
Doesn't look much different than before, but now we have new wiring in there. Also, most of that nonsense on top of the engine is going to go away. It's just staying there until I make the needed cuts and connections that delete it.

More things will be happening the next week-ish, as I'll probably still be off work and my mobility has greatly increased over the past couple of days.