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Messages - mechanized

2
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
Quote from: V8Demon;440009
I just want the stupidest code ever removed from the system. :toilet:


Ha! I do too!:p


Well I went ahead and ran the wire for the fuel pump relay voltage monitor this afternoon from PIN 19 to the relay wiring (pink with Black stripe). Easy to do with the only irritating thing was having to heat one of the seat back Torx bolts with a torch....I think the bolt became "one" with the car. :rolleyes:  Anyway ran the wire under the door sill and carpet, behind the side panel and into the trunk and spliced in. Probably didn't have to go that far back but oh well.  Everything checked out and seemed fine, I wanted to run a scan but didn't have the reader with me....tomorrow!
4
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
Well I know code 15 is KAM failure, it's possible that the KAM is good but not able to store anything if it's resetting itself......if that's even the case. I'd doubt it.

Like I said before I did get a VSS code a couple times after driving, but the battery would be disconnected for a few days, get it together, drive and the code wouldn't be there. Curious!
5
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
Quote from: V8Demon;439736
Trick flow heads and intake, Ed Curtis custom cam (230 duration at .050" lift max lift .565), 24 pound injectors set to 48 psi, 255 lph pump, 70 mm tb, 73 mm mad, 3.45s, 2800 stall converter, AOD with Silver Fox valve body.  Wot shifts are at 6200.  This car is the reason I supercharged my Mustang.  Will pull on a new 5.0 Mustang without issue.


Nice man! Sounds like it should be pretty stout!
7
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
Quote from: V8Demon;439692
I've never had any issues like that.  Cranky idle on startup in cold weather yes, but after about a minute or so it would go away.  I always attributed it to the camshaft.  I replaced my IAC and did a base idle reset a few months ago and it's been pretty much flawless.  It does get a wee bit cranky when humid.  The only time I've ever had the car stall while braking was during an emergency stop situation.  near dented the floor board I hammered the brakes so hard.  I've never had an issue in drive or had to 2 foot it like you did.

I actually ran out to the car and hooked up the scanner.  No code 29......

I think I'm gonna hook up the wires anyhow.  While I'm at it maybe I'll finally run the one for the fuel pump secondary circuit.

 

Mine's NEVER done that.  How are the baffles in your gas tank?  You got any codes still?
What ECU do you run?  I'm running a C3W1 that came with the Ford Racing Mass Air Conversion kit.  Maybe that one doesn't use VSS?  weird.....

My idle is 830 in park 680 in drive right now.....

BTW - I have a full engine harness from an 87 Cougar 5.0 in a box in my garage that came from a car that was totaled out.  It's been boxed up for years and in amazing condition.  I don't know if it came from a full digi dash or not, but pins #3 and # 6 are empty on that too.

The only code I'm pulling now is 95 for the secondary fuel circuit. The ECU is a A9P from an '89GT. The baffles seemed good, I installed a Walbro 400LPH pump and fuel filter probably 3 weeks ago, hopefully everything is good there and must say an easier pump to install then a same year Mustang!!

 So, your instructions say nothing for the VSS?? I know the Mustang had the same issue on the SD cars with those PINS and others that you mentioned.

 The way the car runs overall is very good, no surging, weird noises, sputtering, hesitation or anything and pulls really hard; It was just that slow cruise and stop. I have my idle at about 900-950ish in park. I could go a bit lower but the cam doesn't seem to like that when coming to a stop, I've read that when the cam gets quite big the IAC has a hard time trying to compensate for it. I've read you can mod the IAC to help with that elsewhere.

Interesting you don't have those PINS either, I was starting to think I had a flukey car or something. What mods do you have on your car what cam do you have?
9
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
I'm also happy to report that the wiring install improved the car significantly!!!

 I spliced in the wires from that module and to the EEC. Before you sometimes could hardly get around the block without it dying 5 or 6 times, plus you would have to use both feet when coming to a stop, one foot on the brake and the other on the gas when slowing down. I drove the car around for about 30 minutes through town trying to get it to die...it did...but only three times but never when coming to a stop. It was when going about 25 mph or so and I would hit the gas and then let off quickly. I tried that a couple dozen times and only the three times it died and no more "two footing" it to a stop!! I'm happy!

Thanks for the responses!! I appreciate it!
10
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
Quote from: ZondaC12;439670
I wonder if the dash cluster has its own processor / circuitry necessary to turn the VSS signal into speedometer movement. Might be a really simple execution electrically. I would definitely expect the full digi-dash to have its own CPU.

My black cougar DOES idle high until the moment I come to a stop. Now, I wouldn't want to intentionally cause a stalling like described....but dammit I want to DISconnect this feature on my car...I hate high idling in neutral as I'm coasting...it hides the cam chop :rollin:. Especially with my cutouts open. When it settles down to 800 RPM or so, it's the perfect shake rattle 'n' roll.


Ha! I have a friend who had a pretty radical 347 in his '92 LX. He had #30 injectors and matching MAF and the car ran really good! At a stop though the idle would slightly hunt not much but it wouldn't go under 1k, at 800 rpm the cam sounded really good. We found that if you unplugged the MAF the idle would stay steady at around 800, plug it back in and it would speed up. Well, he too wanted that slow cammed sound at cruises and at the fast food drive through. What he ended up doing was wiring in switch that cut power to the MAF. So, come to a stop and cut the power, the car would idle steady and good, light turn green he'd flip the MAF back on for driving!:giggle: Of course the check engine light would pop on.

Quote from: V8Demon;439672
Well......  Seeing as I did my conversion many moons ago I did the only sensible thing.

I pulled back the kick panel on the passenger side, pulled the harness from my ECU and took a look...... :hick:
Guess what I don't have? 





BTW -- Full digi dash here as well.

The EVTM would be much more correct (the diagrams I posted are basic for most configurations).  Guess I'll study mine to see if in fact the box under the dash somehow ties into the ECU harness....

You know what really  me off?  WRT to moving pin 51 to 38 and 11 to 32 for emissions as well as this?  Ford Racing NEVER mentioned it in their directions that came with the Mass Air Conversion kit.  I still have the instructions.  I remember printing out the repin info from the Coolcats website for reference.  The VSS info I knew of, but I figured I was in the clear since this car came with cruise and a digi dash.  I've never really had an unsolvable stalling issue and my car was unmolested wiring wise when I purchased it.

*Edit*

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=29819.0



I've NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER logged a code 29 in my car......  :confused:


That's crazy! I did have the code 29 a couple times after driving, but it wouldn't pull it always. Here is a diagram I have used:
11
Electrical Tech / Mass air conversion question
Alright, I went to the junkyard yesterday and was able to get the EEC pins out of a harness from a '91 Mustang to install in the EEC connector. I wanted the correct factory wire colors. Should be able to get that wrapped up this afternoon or tomorrow.

Here is a pic of the 60 pin connector, notice there are no wires in location 3 and 6. The VSS wires do run to a control module under the dash on the drivers side above the brake pedal, must be because of the digital cluster; i'll spice into those.
12
Electrical Tech / '87 Cougar digital dash issue
Quote from: mcb82gt;439568
, I knew that was coming LOL.  Ill look it up and post it, I cant remember off the top of my head, but I know its easy.

Had to get my manual.  Press trip and trip reset at same time and hold till 3 beeps and light should go out.


Ok I'll give that a try tomorrow! Thanx!