Setting up the gears looks like the hardest part. I'm too scared to try it yet. You have to get it just right or they may whine or wear out quickly. Shouldn't be too difficult if you take your time. I found THIS while looking for info on rebuilding a track loc. Pretty descriptive walkthrough of whats involved. If you have the money I think that with the Power Trax locker you don't have to even mess w/ the ring gear lash. It looks like the axles go into it, then the pin holds it to the carrier. I haven't really heard anything about how good or bad they work tho.
The forums over at turbomustangs.com is definetly the place to go. They have a seperate area for junkyard and diy builds. I haven't had any actual experience but I plan on turboing my bird also, and have been looking on that site for like a year. A lot of good information. Just do a lot of searching. Chances are most the questions you need to know have been answered before. Also, read the stickies in that section. A few companies make complete kits for fox mustangs that should fit, but they cost a fortune. For a cheaper route, B&G turbo makes affordable headers for twin and single setups. I hear they are really good. The rest of plumbing can be made faily easily with madrel bends from summit, just cut and weld to get from point A to point B. Upgrade the fuel pump, injectors, and get a pro-m blowthru MAF. Oh, as for the motor, a stock HO lower end is fine. Just about everone on turbomustangs says the block will generally crack before the stock pistons, rods, crank goes.
Exactly, the little engines make very little toque at normal driving RPMs. I experienced this w/ my winter car, geo storm, made by Isuzu, w/ a dohc 1.6L. It had a peak hp of like 130, but that was at 7600 RPM. Which you don't get to see that often, and it had a hard time getting itself moving. It didn't even start making power until around 4000. To get the car into the where it will actually make any power they have to be geared down. Which then causes it to turn high RPMs. The high RPMs are great for racing, but doesn't work too well on the street. You really can't gear you car and just cruise at 5000 rpms all day to have power when you want to mash the gas. And you can only have so much overdrive in a transmision. More RPMs are also more wear on parts, and more gas. Which kinda defeats the purpose of a 4 cylider, economy. As far as turbos go, I dont really think a 4 cyl. turning high RPMs would be better than a v8 turning lower RPMs. Sounds like Ricer logic, just thinkin because there motors are spinnin faster then there car must be faster, or be able to spool a turbo faster. A v8 is able to flow the same amount of exhaust at a lower RPM. The turbo doesn't care about the size of engine or # of cylinder, only the amount of air flowing through it. Also, with a v8 you get off turbo power before the turbo spools, which would really help on the street. Also givin a 4 and 8 cylinder motors with the same turbo a v8 should spool it faster. More exhaust flow as soon as you hit the gas from a roll. While the 4 will have to climb up the RPMs until it finally makes boost. I saw a video of a turbo civic. It was a fast car, but he'd nail the gas and it accelerate pretty slow till it hit like 5000 RPM then break the tires loose and pull hard to redline, he'd shift then it'd repeat. Go over to turbomustangs.com, most those cars reach full boost by around 3500. Also there are many cars runnin 500 rwhp on the stock HO short block, that just amazes me. Ok, that said, I'm no expert, this is just my logic and opinion.
Here joefriday has a nice write up. Have fun w/ the pop-ups. :) The mustang doesn't have the yellow wire. Your yellow wire(constant +, to run fuel pump) probably won't be long enough from the cfi, as the one joefriday is talking about I believe is from the 87-88 3.8L, mine wasn't cuz the selinoid is on opposite of the engine bay w/ 3.8L cfi, I used a cougar harness that already had the wire. You may have to run your own wire. It goes from the + on the starter selinoid to the connector by the computer. I know you'll need to have constant power to yellow, just match the tan/lt greens together, and the reds together. I think the post says what to do w/ the rest. I just used the cougar harness, just had to match the 3 colors and go. Good luck.
Yeah, thats what I read a while back. I'm not sure on the rack that goes with the mustang pump, I bought it on ebay, I suppose I could email him and see if he knows. I would just use the one off my 3.8, it looks like it will fit the bracket, and I know it matches the rack, but while I was swapin the motor I just left it settin on on the floor, and when I would jack it up, I put up where the radiator sits. This worked for about 2 months, till most of the stuff was done, then it fell and broke the little return nipple off. I could pobably JB weld or just get a new one. I'm not sure on the price of them, or how would I know what one theyll give me. As for the pulleys, the small one is about 5.5" in diameter and the big one is about 7". I don't pulley size will really make a difference since I plan on getting underdrive pulleys soon. Even then I can just swap them easily if one doesn't work optimally. If the large one doesn't pump enough, I can always put on the smaller one, and see how I like it. I still need to figure out this pump issue though. Are the inlets and outlets the same on both std. and high effort pumps? Or any other way to tell them apart. Also anybody know what the difference in the pump themselves are, like more volume, or higher pressure or something like that?
Ok. I have the standard, non-quick ratio, steering rack I believe. I have 3 powersteering pumps, original off 3.8L, one from 88 LX bird 302, and one I got with my bracket from a mustang. The 3.8L had a larger pulley, the mustang pump has a smaller diameter pulley, and I broke the pulley from the 88 LX by trying to use 2 arm puller on the edge of the pulley :wtf: . Probably not a good idea on what I think was a plastic pulley but I didn't have the right puller, and was impatient,also was like 2yrs ago, so oh well. The 2 bird pumps look the same, w/ black resevior, and the mustang one has a white resevior. I dont know the difference. My question is which pump should I use, and which pulley. I remember reading something about different pumps but, that was a while ago, and I dont remember much. Something about different pump for the different racks. I look on advance auto site, and it looks like all use the same pump, except mustangs changed in early 90s.
I got another wiring question for ya. 87-88 5.0L harness in 86 car. I know I need to make a conversion harness for the connectors that do mate, but is it safe to assume that the matching color wires go together. I'm talking about the 2 connectors next to the brake booster on the main engine harness, and there are different style connectors on the car harness, so they do not mate. Can I just match the same colors up and be set or not. 'Cuz I know sometimes the same color wires are used more than once, and I'm havin a hell of a time findin some of them in the EVTM, and am not sure what some of them are for. Then tryin to track down where they go is kinda tricky. :shoothead I just want to make sure I don't short anything. I got just about everything else figured out. Any info would be helpful. Hopefully I can get this beast fired up soon.
First I'd talk to the people you got the motor from and see what they say. If they claimed it to fit a 92, it should have the appropriate timing cover. They should be the ones responsible to supply you the right one. The best route would probably be to get a timing cover for the earlier style. From there your original water pump and everything should bolt on correctly I believe.
Hi all. I got the 302 in and am now working on the wiring issues. My thunderbird EVTM for '86 shows pin 22 as fuel pump relay activation, which corresponds to the location in the 87-88 harness I'm using. However, here it says mustang uses the same pin, 22, to activate the relay, and it says in the cool cats article for converting to mass air, that the tbird/cougar use a different pin than the mustang, and a new wire must be run. Is some info wrong or am I just missing something?
. Probably not a good idea on what I think was a plastic pulley but I didn't have the right puller, and was impatient,also was like 2yrs ago, so oh well. The 2 bird pumps look the same, w/ black resevior, and the mustang one has a white resevior. I dont know the difference. My question is which pump should I use, and which pulley. I remember reading something about different pumps but, that was a while ago, and I dont remember much. Something about different pump for the different racks. I look on advance auto site, and it looks like all use the same pump, except mustangs changed in early 90s.
'Cuz I know sometimes the same color wires are used more than once, and I'm havin a hell of a time findin some of them in the EVTM, and am not sure what some of them are for. Then tryin to track down where they go is kinda tricky. :shoothead I just want to make sure I don't short anything. I got just about everything else figured out. Any info would be helpful. Hopefully I can get this beast fired up soon.
