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Messages - Cad-T-Bird 500

1
Vendor/Seller Feedback / Who are these guys?? Online
I agree, if you can wait for the parts http://www.rockauto.com is the way to go.  Very nice web-site and a lot of times they a picture of the item.  Sometimes I look it up here before I buy local to see if the local price is reasonable; The other day I purchased a gasket set and Rockauto was $100 cheaper, I decided for $100 I could wait.  The only thing is you have to watch shipping.  They ship out of several warehouses and when they do they can charge double shipping costs.  But they let you know exactly how much up front.

TED
2
User Rides / Show your engine now !!!!!
Back in those days you could not get an intake that would fit a Cadillac directly, so they would adapt Ford 460 intake to fit.  The spacing was about the same but not quite and it was less than perfect.  In fact I'm using 460 Van headers on my T-bird; had to cut off the  by overall spacing was pretty good.

This intake was originally designed by Bulldog but they were too big and did not work well.  Then MTS purchased the right to build them and did a redesign that worked a lot better.  My intake is one of the newer models and it still costs $495.  You can also buy the Edelbrock performer for about $300, but these are your only two choices.  I have both but I really like the look of the MTS intake.

No water runs through the intake and this make it really nice when you have to pull it.

Cadillac Motorsports is still around but they were sold and went from Florida to Arizona; they now go by CadCo mostly.  They are the biggest Cadillac parts dealer but I'm not impressed with their quality or service and do not deal with them.  I prefer to go to Maximum Torque Specialties or MTS; very nice people and great service.

TED
3
User Rides / Show your engine now !!!!!
Not a Ford (Cadillac 500) but it will go in my 87 Turbo Coupe and it is painted dark blue Ford (as close as you can get to Cadillac Blue).  This year I upgraded the bottom end to use main studs and put in a roller cam.  The new cam is 248 duration at .050 with a .670 lift, ground on a 110 LSA.  About the same duration as last years cam but with .070 more lift, and roller instead of flat tappet.  I hope to see mid 11's without the NOS this year.  Just got it to this point today and I should have it running next week-end with a little work and luck.  Sure will be weird not to have to break in a cam.

TED
7
Suspension/Steering / You need subframe connectors
Now those are real sub-frame connectors and overkill in my opinion.  Would be better for road racing than drag racing, and what you need if you plan to cut off the top.  Also great for side impact from a low rider.

I would think the Mustang would not work at all, the Mustang frame looks completely different and overall shorter.

TED
9
Suspension/Steering / You need subframe connectors
All you need is some channel and flat steel.  The channel needs to be as wide as you subframe and about 1 inch high.  Clean the subframe, lay the channel flat and tack on, lay flat steel to the side and weld solid.  The one they made for me is a bit narrow and it made welding a bit harder but it worked.  This may reduce you ground clearence slightly but it never been a problem for me, my exhaust is still a bit lower.

I'm sure that thunderjet302 will post pictures that will put mine to shame.  But this sure did make things a lot stronger and everything better, even shutting the door is solid.

As a side note I had a 1988 Mustang on the hoist this week-end and I cannot believe how light duty they are compared to the T-bird (at least my 87 Turbo Coupe).  I don't know what keep a Mustang from folding in two.

TED
10
Suspension/Steering / Rack n' Pinion setups
I converted mine to an aftermarket manual rack but the spline is different, so you also have to replace your steering shaft.  Why did Ford use two different splines?  Why do they not offer aftermarket racks that are a bolt in with the larger spline?

TED
11
Suspension/Steering / You need subframe connectors
I agree it really helps.  Do you have any pictures?  Did you make your own or buy them made up?

I purchased mine from someone on eBay but they were so simple that the next time I would just make my own.  Just some channel and flat steel.

TED
14
Misc Tech / Another batery relocation
You are right you need one more cable from the engine to a ground on the frame in front; forgot about this one, thanks.  I ran mine from the front motor mount bolt on the block.  Two more ends to buy.

I also think that 6g is plenty for the charging wire and any bigger would be overkill.  Also I don't know how you would hook too big of wire to the back of the Alternator?

TED
15
Misc Tech / Another batery relocation
You can try a welding shop.  You need a copper core and I think the wire in this size at Home Cheapo will be aluminum.  But I would just order it out of Summit.  I would go with the 1/0 and not the 2.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-21540/

You need a chunk from your starter to solenoid, one for the solenoid to cut off switch, one from Cut off switch to battery.  I ran the hot cable right through the inside of the car under the carpet.  The ground I just ran up to tin that holds the hood hinge support and it worked great.  You also need to run a wire from your alternator all the way back to the battery and should be 8ga or some say 6.  The alternator wire needs to run to the other side of the cut off switch in order for the car to die, at least this worked for me.

Anyway you need 6 lug ends for the large cables (kit comes with 2), and two for the alternator wire.

TED