sooo. since i picked up my bird i was having clutch problems. after putting in a firewall adjuster a new oem cable and effectively destroyed the shiznitty plastic stock self adjusting quadrant. so i ordered the steeda double hook quadrant and wiggled it in there.... now for my problem...
since i installed the firewall adjuster and new cable the clutch started slipping at around 2900 rpm, especially in 3rd gear and above. Ive adjusted the cable up and down with the firewall adjuster, had a buddy check out what the cable was doing under the car etc, and everything seems to be fine; the problem persists regardless of where the clutch engages on the pedal path. so what gives?? i cant figure it out and the clutch, though it is stock to the car only has 50k miles on it..... any ideas fellas?
alright, so sorry for taking so long to get back to ya guys..... it ended up being a regular old fuse under the dash. I tested em but apparently missed one. thanks for all the help.
the battery is fine, i guess im going to take a shot at the fusable links today. I suck with electrical so wish me luck! I'll be back on when I figure out what is going on
ok. Well i know where the fusable link is. it doesnt feel too squishy, but i cant think of a problem other than this, now that ive basically gone through the whole system. I ran some basic diagnostics on the wires when my buddy was here with a power probe, but ill have to wait for him to come back to finish testing everything. that diagram was super helpful thanks. The volt. reg. is labeled as well..... ill give this all a go as soon as i have access to the proper tools....and I'll post results.....thanks a ton.
alright, I'll go check it out right now. As of now i just jumped the car with a tested alternator and a new volt. reg, same problem. This leads me to believe that the problem lie in neither component. The strange part is that the car started fine when I was heading home and just randomly died on the freeway..... Ill check the books. thanks man, your flock of t-birds makes me jealous.
Ok, so I bought a new alt and volt reg. when the car died; same problem. So when i went back to the store, I brought both alt.s and had my Original alt. tested 3 times. It passed all three times, so i returned the new alt. and volt. reg. and am about to go pick up a new volt reg. and give it a shot, if its not that......im confused. I tested the fuses and am not even sure which fuse would effect the charging system the way it is. I suppose it could also be one of the fusable links. Hell, who am I kidding? I havent the slightest idea....
..... Im super confused. I didnt realize that it was you that solved my previous problem. I am still indebted. Hmmmm maybe ill check out the switch again. hell if its under warrantee, maybe ill switch it out.
Thanks so much, but I have all the factory manuals, and cant figure out the problem. My motors a 2.3 turbo. No dash indicator for the alt. (I port on the volt regulator). Any other common problems or a way to trace the issue?
I was on my way home when the interior lights dimmed, radio died, and I eventual found myself on the side of the road waiting for a tow. I have a fairly new battery and alternator, but just to be safe, i switched out my alternator and voltage regulator. Exact same problem. I used a probe to check all of the various connections, and cant figure it out for the life of me. I got the alternator bench tested, and plan on exchanging the volt. regulator tomorrow but i seriously doubt thats the problem. Any suggestions? Im stumped!!!
ok well. my buddy drove the car for me, so i could stick my head out the window. and guess what...... it was the REARS :O silly mistake but at least all brakes on my car are now new....sorry and thanks guys learned alot here regardless.
gotcha... i got a few timkins but it was the final stock at the auto zone by me. the ridiculous part is that they are exactly the same price as "duralast" or whatever bs.
Did you think to pull the rear brakes apart? They tend to get neglected and the Bendix bar (goes across the top of the axle and between the brake shoes) can drop in them and make all kinds of racket. Anyhow, it appears you have determined the noise is from the front of the car so this may be a moot point.
The other thing you need to do is let us know what you are working on like a stock 85 Cougar 3.8 or an 87 TC that has been converted to a 5.0 with SN95 brakes. Helps immensely with guiding you to possible solutions.
Darren
fully stock(everything ive removed has been factory) 86 TC. fans hotwired to run all the time and the fog lights and antenna switch dont work other than that......
it is the passenger side. what is so difficult about replacing the rotors? how would you go about fixing this "feathering" problem? caliper replacement? as of now the car seems to be driving alright like i said the brakes might be touching a little bit. Im going to replace the other sides rotors and pads as soon as the jerks at the auto store order me the right parts(they gave me 2 different rotors. thanks for your insight i really just want this to be done.
