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Messages - cylon

1
Electrical Tech / Wiring Harness 83 Tbird EEC III, 5L, CFI
I doubt that this is available anywhere however I just thought I’d ask. I’m looking for a wiring harness for an 83 Thunderbird. This is the harness that goes from the computer to the engine connecting with all the sensors and fuel injectors. It’s a 5 L CFI,  EEC III.
The insulation is falling off the current harness and I just thought it would be easier to replace if possible?
2
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Earliest 1983 TBird
Just a quick update.  The car has been primed and has all new tires as well as a long list of suspension and electrical parts and switches. I even made the sidelights (C Column ?)  using blue LEDs.  At this point I need to take a break from working on it since it will have to be sanded again for the finish coat and I would just as soon drive it around for a while and give the primer a chance to cure. Still a few things to do, I need to put in a headliner, any suggestions would be helpful and also some routine maintenance such as new plugs, wires, distributor Etc.  But what a pleasure to Drive as I’m sure you all know. Some nice looking cars here on this forum.X
3
Misc Tech / A/C issues
Here is a simple technique to get the most out of a 134A conversion. I followed this method on several r12 cars. The newer vehicles are computer controlled so it won't work. The old Ford system used r12 and a cycle on off switch depending on the low side pressure.

Here's the technique it's real simple. First I assume everything is in good working order. System has been flushed, proper oil, good compressor, evaporator and condenser and orifice tube and accumulator. Forget about the cycle switch all you need to do is bypass so that the compressor is either on or off. Throw that  switch away. You'll need a good digital thermometer. Put that in your air vent. Measure the temperature as you add Freon.

Proceed slowly all the time watching the temperature coming out of the air vent. When you get to the lowest temperature it will start to rise. Stop filling the system at this point. You may only need a can or two of Freon.

If you've ever watched the frost on the lines you'll notice that it will move. By that I mean the line may be frozen but as you add more Freon it will melt and start to sweat. What you want to do is find this sweat point (move it) so that it falls on the evaporator core. When it does you're getting the coldest temperature possible out of your vent. Also you evaporator core will not freeze up. There is no need to cycle. Furthermore your pressures are lower, putting less strain on the compressor.

Using this technique I get about a 20 – 25° difference between ambient and inside vent temperature. Needless to say the air works better than new. You’re basically operating on perhaps a third to half capacity but there is no need to cycle, your compressor is on all the time but with reduced pressure and less strain and your evaporator core will not freeze.
5
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Earliest 1983 TBird
Just wanted to join the forum since I'm in the process restoring a 1983 Heritage which I bought new. It's on its second engine and transmission and while it runs very well it was in need a lot of attention. I've just about completed the interior with fiberglass floorboards and all the interior switches etc. New radiator, air conditioning, and heater. All the plastic interior parts have been reinforced with fiberglass as well. Suspension has been replaced including steering, torsion bar supports, struts and shocks. It basically runs like a new car.


I can't seem to find a replacement wiper control box so I have to manually turn off the wipers but at least they work. I'm in the process now of exterior work and eventually will have it painted. A long time ago I removed anything that didn't have a direct input to engine functioning. The biggest problem I ever had with it aside from the dam cam timing gear with plastic gears was the crankshaft position sensor. Seems like it was a shoot some would last for only a short time and others longer. I actually drilled a hole through the alternator bracket so I could remove them without having to take off the alternator. Seems like the current sensor is holding up pretty well.

I've tried to determine the build date but I can't seem to find it on the interior door as that has been reworked for the door latch. I don't know if the VIN can provide the build date?
But in any case the VIN is 1FABP 406F1DA1228333  24 if this could indicate a build date?


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