Well, the suck of it is, to get to where you need to, to reinforce and weld, your probably going to need to pull the brake booster, that's half of the pedal box job anyway. Besides that, if your going to weld it up at someones shop, you gotta tear it apart where it is to be welded.
It looks like you TC'd your car out quite a bit already, why not build the bracket to put a hydraulic slave on your T5? From there you just use the pedals and master out of a TC.
I'm not a fan either, personally if it's not domestic it doesn't belong, and yes i know there manufactured here, and so are other foreign brands. on the other hand, it brings a new kind of competition, and if Detroit (more like North carolina) can get it right, toyota will realize why they havent been involved in nascar for most of it's history. basically the only way I can get over toyota in nascar is to tell myself that there just going to get embarrassed. not to say they dont build a reliable car, I just dont think they belong in nascar. One thing I do like about toyota.... there parts NEVER become obsolete, you can still buy brand new parts (everything and anything) for 98% of the cars they ever made, from toyota OEM parts... I REALLY wish ford did that.
there's some thing's you need to scout out or make, If you have the plastic line to the master, you can cut the line off of it and tig a -4 JIC to the metal fitting (what I did) or you can purchase a fitting from russel (part number 641001). I made the -4 to -4 JIC hose like 8 or 10" long cause I have access to fittings and a machine, but you could use field service fittings. the slave is a 30620B5000T from a 72-73 nissan / datsun 620 Pick Up 1.6L Carb Engine From 3 of 1972, it matches the displacement of the TC Master perfectly. as for the bracketry, it's tricky, a few obstacles and a few angles need to be dead on. if you have a bandsaw, plasma cutter, or if youre decent with oxy/fuel you could probably make one pretty easy. I included a few pics. I also included a pic of the russel fitting you you would have an idea of how to make one if you decided to. The pedal box also needs to come from a TC unless you feel up to tackeling that hurdle, on a cable pedal box the shaft goes toward the center of the car, and on the TC / hydraulic setup it comes out closer to the left side of the box, im sure it's possible, but it was easier and cheaper for me to use a TC box.
My cougar did the same thing, it started to crack and would not fully disengage the clutch. I got together a 87 turbo coupe clutch master with the plastic line, a slave cylinder from a 1972 datsun pickup, fab'd up a bracket to bolt the slave to the side of the T-5 and a JIC to clutch master fitting, and now it's hydraulic. want to buy a setup?
buttstuffog to digital is not a direct swap as daminc stated, it will cook. get a cheap volt meter and find where you're not getting voltage. If you need the schematics I can post them.
3.8CFI? don't even bother, if you must, and you're hell bent, swap over heads cam, intake, EEC and harness from a 4.2 out of a freestar. there's actually some pretty nasty cams out there for the 4.2.
Nothing beats a dyno tune and an experienced person to tune. As far as what you use to modify processing and signaling within the EEC, both the tweEECer and moats get pretty deep into almost every parameter of the EEC unit. one problem I've run into is dyno shops like to use whatever hardware they sell and are more familiar with, witch works to everyones advantage, I know i dont want to be paying some guy to learn my hardware. Every chip, tuner, and card has a different software interface, and they all have a learning curve. Simply put, the moates is great, I prefer the tweecer, and without a dyno you really can't know what you're doing or what you need to do. the dyno fills in all the info you need to modify the program accordingly, wide bands alone leave a lot of questions.
If it cranks it's not your starter, and you mentioned earlier you have a pip code.. have you investigated that at all? have to tested or replaced the TFI? A poor Profile Ignition Pickup or a TFI will cause this exact problem. One other thing that I ran into a few times, was the computer being stuck @ 30 degrees timing, regardless of spout status or RPM, it runs hot and wont re-start after it's hot, but will stay running as long as you need it to. So check your timing, not saying it's mechanically out of time, but check it, 10 to 12 degrees should be fine. The PIP needs to be check with a scope, if you or a buddy has one, check the PIP and spark input and spark output. If a scope is not available, and your timing is ok, try swapping out a PIP sensor and or TFI. In the case where the computer was stuck @ 30 degrees timing, I had to replace the computer, it was cooked, and threw a code 11 for what that's worth. If you find a scope and need to know what the wave pattern looks like, PM me.
