I used a block of wood on it. I've never had good luck with screwdrivers or punches.
And as an added update, remove the good part. I was being careful with it last night. Tried to give it some gas today and it lacked power. It looks like it was a two part problem >.< Fuel pressure is good and the car runs good at low rpms(<2-2.5k), but ~3k it just becomes weak. I'm kind of clueless at this point. Tank didn't fall off, though, so I guess my welding was ok XD
So, back to say that it was almost a complete success. It did end up being a ton more work than it should've, though. Things just kept going wrong.
The sending unit was pretty simple to rebuild, but I did have some unexpected problems. I made the top plate at work and ended up having a coworker weld it together. He tig welded part of it, but he had to mig the tube. The pipe was 1/4 ID and 5/16 OD so I tapped it M7. They didn't have any head bolts in M7 at the local hardware, so I had a coworker rig up something to resistance weld a washer on. Add in a rubber washer thingy (I forget details easily), and all that was left was the wiring. The sending wire was easy, but I learned that you can't solder to steel. Ended up welding over the top of the solder. I just used an old computer connector for it. I used silicone caulk over any openings and then electrical taped over it for added protection. http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7489/img20111112141605.jpg
The support brackets were the part that took me the most time. My friend fell through, so I had to buy my own welder and learn how to weld. Welding stock steel was easy, but welding it onto the bottom of the trunk was hard for me. I took this picture before I finished up. Ended up having my dad give me advice over the phone. It isn't terrible, but I am still kind of worried it might break under a full tank. Kinda blurry, but I was more worried about getting it done than getting a good picture. http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/5158/img20111113213601.jpg
My fuel pump didn't fit the tank completely properly so I had to ground down one side a bit. The sending unit gave me trouble, since it didn't have that bump in the middle to align the ring. I got both in and the tank was all ready. Lifted it into place only to find that the "OEM" straps from every place are wrong. Tried them on both the old and new tanks, and they weren't even close. I ended up welding on an extra 3" on it. http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8118/img20111113232053.jpg
The worst part was finding out my sending unit got screwed up somehow. It constantly reads full. I checked it with a multimeter before putting it in and it read correctly. Not sure what the problem is, but it'll have to wait. I'm wore out from this.
Considering I came into this with almost zero knowledge, I didn't do too bad. I'll probably have to have someone else touch up on things, and I have no clue about the sending unit. Theoretically everything should've been good, but I guess I screwed something up. Anyways, unless someone has an idea about the sending unit, I'm done with this particular issue.
The pump and support assembly is still available. Just buy a new one and save all your energy and ideas. I have used this sender from time to time on vintage low OHM units. It is easily adaptable to the ford tank. And most likely the resistor on your unit is shot anyway. Just me could be wrong. I think an early escort sender is a drop in if memory serves me. It is one of those Escort years that has a low ohm sender. Or better yet call Barry for his imput he can make one for you.
Now the lines. You can use a hose and clamp on the return line . Their is no pressure their to speak of. Now the feed line. You can make up a line to hook up the tank quick fitting. Then do the same at the filter. Use a 1987 Explorer filter the nipples are longer. Or a chevy filter with a bob fitting and 2 clamps. DUN. Then s the tank for a new one. Your tank looks worse than the TITANIC.
The sending unit is still in perfect working order. All it needs is a new mounting piece which is extremely easy. I could probably whip one up in about an hour. Also, I did get a new tank. Fuel pump would have to be cut out to save the old tank. Managed to break off all four tabs using a block of hardwood.
I found the tool for under 70, so I'll probably just order one. Other than that, I just need to get my friend to help weld on some new support brackets for the straps to bolt into, and it'll be good to go.
I'll update when I finish to let you know how it went ^.^
So, I got busy for a week or so, but now I'm back at it. I've got a lot of good news, a little bad news, and hopefully my final question.
First off, I got myself some real penetrating oil. In my arsenal, I now have PB Blaster, Kano, and CRC Freeze Off. I could tell the difference right away. Anyways, I sprayed that on last night, and today worked out almost as good as I'd hoped. I got the lines off first and pulled the tank out. The gas that was remaining in it is in the bucket to the right. A lot more than I thought would be left. http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/7309/img20111023150254.jpg
It came out better than I could've ever hoped. All I have to do is tear off the rest of the top and remake it. Connector and everything is still in one piece.
Now, onto my question. How do I replace those ends on the fuel lines? I'm assuming it's not just plug and play. I also still have to remake the electrical connectors, but that shouldn't be that bad. Worst case scenario I machine a block of plastic to fit and find a way to secure it. Best case I make a mold and melt some plastic into it.
As an added question, how is galvanized steel when it comes to rusting? I'm assuming pretty good, but I'm basing that on the chemical structure, not real world experience. I ask because that's what my new tank is made of.
Well, I've been pounding on it for a couple days now, and I'm not sure I'm going to get it off without destroying the tank or blowing something up. I'll give it until the end of the weekend. If I can't get the ring to budge at all, I'll call this tank quits. I'll try PB Blaster today.
Definitely need a new sending unit, though. It's still working, but it's in too poor of shape to keep. I did tons of searching and came up with nothing. Making my own is starting to sound like a good idea. At least then I'd know it wouldn't rust away. Either that or salvage what I can of the current unit.
Good news is I found a tank for under 100 including shipping =D
to coat the exterior of the tank, use POR 15.. it works amazingly.. just give the tank a nice scuff down with 220 grit sand paper or a wire wheel on a grinder and coat it.
I actually have a POR 15 restoration kit for the inside. I just planned on using a cheap paint on the outside. POR 15 is expensive.
That's one mystery solved. I'm assuming finding that particular unit would be a major pain, so I'll try to reuse the one that's there if possible. The only issue is the rust; I'd hate for it to go out in the future. Plus I need to get it out to clean and coat the tank, which probably won't be easy or forgiving. I'll keep working on that lock ring, but I've already destroyed one tab. I'm switching to a block of wood instead of a chisel for now. Maybe a couple days of pounding and soaking will loosen it out enough.
I'm clueless as to how the lines got stuck on as well. I've yanked and tugged on them quite a bit, but all I've succeeded in doing was bending the steel pipe a little. I'm thinking I'll just cut them off and replace them. Whatever is causing them to stick probably destroyed the o-rings anyways.
Also, what tool might that be? If I know what I need, I can make one or just improvise. I did not need a special tool for my Cougar, so I've never heard of it.
Hello everyone. First time poster and newbie to car repair. Essentially I'm a computer geek, but I'm trying to bridge over into the mechanical realm as well. My main goal is to completely restore my T-Bird, but that's a long term goal. Right now I just need it working.
Okay with that aside, I have an 88 T-Bird Turbocoupe. I just dropped three grand into the engine, but a month later it has died again. After talking with several mechanics, we came to a consensus that it was a fuel issue. My current objective is to replace the fuel pump and restore the tank. Me and my dad replaced the fuel pump on my 88 Cougar three years ago, but my T-bird has a lot more rust.
Onto the details. I need to know two things before I can do this. First, there is a second electrical connection to the tank. I have been unable to find any details or replacement parts for this. I honestly have no clue what it is, what it does, or where to find a new one. The connectors need replaced too, which I have also had trouble finding. Second, the fuel pump and lock ring are rusted all to hell. I've had it soaking in WD-40 for a couple days, but I've had no luck. The lock ring won't budge and the rubber fuel lines won't come off. The metal just bends. Chances are I'll have to replace those lines, but I absolutely need to get the pump out if I don't want to purchase a new tank.
To summarize, I need to know what that second electrical connector is to, where to find the electrical connectors themselves, and how to get the rusty fuel pump out without breaking off the tabs.
