More than likely the chime module is dead. What year is your car? According to the shop manual, first check fuses #6 and #18. If they're okay then read on.
What I like to do to verify beyond the fuses, is to turn the parking lights on and open a door. If you put your ear to the dash or under the dash, somewhere around the steering column, you may hear a slight buzzing or what would be a chime if it were louder. The module has a "speaker" on the underside. Even if you can't hear anything at all, if you watch the interior lights in the footwells, they may dim slightly as if there were a chime going. Either way, that pretty much confirms that it's the module. Honestly, I've found chime module to be one of the most reliable parts of these cars, so if you are having any issue with it then it's almost a guarantee that the module is toasted. I don't know of a practical way to fix one.
The chime module, depending on the model year, is either a bright light blue or black, and is located under the dash right above the fuse panel, to the left of the steering column. Difficult to get to, though. Don't confuse it with the wiper motor governor module (if you have delay wipers), as that's close to the chime module; the governor has one harness in, one harness out, and IIRC the chime module has just one harness.
Thanks for uploading these images. I'll upload a few a little later.
Of note, I removed five screws that I thought attached the fuse panel bracket to the dash board. Turned out only two of the screws attached the bracket. Two other screws attached the actual warning chime. One screw was of unknown use. But... it looked like all of them were for the bracket when I started.
Removed the bracket, and was still not successful in finding the warning chime. Turned out you have to reach up in there to dig it out.
This was on a 1987 Ford Thunderbird. The device is black on my 'bird.
I actually disassembled all this to try to find the '"equivalent unit" on a 1989 Mustang whose chime no longer works. I still haven't figured out where the 'stang chime is, but at least I have some idea of what it might look like. Another owner found a white one, but I'm not sure of the year of the car.
Okay, so I think I know the o-ring you are talking about. Mine is leaking from the nipple to the far left of the image, not the o-ring around the nut. It looks like the rubber nipple touches the plunger, not sure why though.
I'm considering taking the nut off and trying to form a rubber nipple with RTV or something. I'm not sure if this is even remotely going to work, though, because of pressure.
I called Fortes ( http://www.fortesparts.com/ ), they sell the plug for the front of the proportioning valve, but not the internal gasket that actually performs the proportioning. According to Mike at Fortes, the plug is used when a user wants to put either disk bakes on the back (where no proportioning valve is necessary) or to install an after market proportioning valve (which I really don't want to do, but may be forced to do).
So the front plug has a hole in the middle of it, which means the rubber seal is actually a rubber stopper. The rubber piece is the failed part (the unit is leaking out of the little hole in the middle of the plug). I don't want to take the plug out until I am able to source a new gasket, because I'm sure the rubber gasket is going to just fall apart.
It is leaking out of the front plug only. The rear plug looks intact.
It looks like the front plug is actually drilled out in the middle and has a washer that is swollen and sticks out of the little hole. I'm not sure why it is configured with the drilled out plug.
Thanks for the Fortes contact, I just sent them an email.
The front portion of my proportioning valve is leaking. I've not been able to source the piece -- I've tried Ford, Advance Auto, Autozone, NAPA, and a few local shops. Ford identifies the piece as E7SZ-2B091-A.
Haynes calls the piece a combination Proportioning Valve & Shuttle Valve.
The device has a set bolt on the front and the rear, with two inputs on top and two outputs on the bottom. The inputs are sourced from the master cylinder. The front output appears to go to the rear brakes, while the rear output appears to go to the front right brake. The front left brake is driven directly off the master cylinder.
So a few questions:
1) How can I source a new/rebuilt proportioning valve? Or find a rebuilt kit? Or figure out how to rebuild it? 2) Why is the FL brake driven off the master cylinder, while the FR brake is driven off this valve? I suspect it has something to do with preventing a single point of failure. 3) If I can't get a new/rebuilt one, how can I repair the car? I'm thinking that I might have to buy an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes, and somehow "straight through" the FR brake. Details would definitely be appreciated!
So one thing I'd try since you mentioned the entire side is lower, is to jack up the front on jack stands (to get it completely level), then look at the rear. My thinking is this will eliminate any lean caused by the front suspension. If it still leans, it has to be the rear end. If it doesn't lean, well then focus on the front end. Might be a blown out strut or something.
Another thing I'd look in to is crash damage. Since the car is unibody, a rear end crash repair requires cutting and welding. If not completed correctly, well, a lean could result.
