Than I bought a pro-m mass air meter and car ran great.
Pro-M or PMAS as they are now called sucks ass! I had a 80mm blowthru meter from them ($300) calibrated and even chipped the ECU and my car ran like . Not to mention there tech support sucked. Hmm... reminds me of Procharger
Went back to a C&L meter with the chip (tuned by 5.8FASTCAT) and the car runs like an animal
I also bought their cage for my 86, it turned out great, a real quality piece all pre bent and notched. I got D.O.M. steel instead of the chromoly piece though (kinda expensive) The shipping was almost as much as the cage.
I'm trying to finish my aeromotive fuel system and install my cage in the car so i can get to the track hopefully i will be able to give fast cat an ass whoopin ha ha ha ha no offense greg
I bought that MTX box from Summit with three 10''s, and amazingly it fit in the recess in the backside of the trunk. Granted I had to remove the rear deck speakers but it fit perfectly.
I have the aeromotive boost reference regulator. The computer is an A9L. I finally spoke with PMAS and they said I must get the ECU tuned for the 50lbs inj. As the voltage signal to the meter is to low at idle.
So if it runs rich at idle how do I compensate, and do I need to have the ECU tuned? I didn't have this problem before I put this meter on, as I was using a 76mm C&L and 30lbs injectors. I have hooked the pins up exactly the way the other meter was set up excluding F&E, and the car will not idle, or drive without bucking and stalling. Also I heard that the egr being unplugged can cause the ECU not to read the MAF, is there any truth to this? (mine has no egr)
I just switched over to the new 3.5in blow through style maf meter from professional mass air systems aka (pro-m). Since I put this meter on, the car won't idle, has no drivability, and just flat will not stay running. Now the meter was calibrated for my injectors and the new blow through is supposed to be the hot ticket for procharged cars. I also don't understand why the meter has six wires leading into it as the stock units only have four. The wires break down as follows E (temp signal) A (12v power) B (ground) C (maf signal return) D (maf signal) F (temp signal return). Now A,B,C,D are the same as the old meter but the temp signal wires are for WHAT?
I'm pulling my hair out, anybody have any suggestions? Because I've called PMAS about five times in the last 3 days and they won't return my calls, seeing how their tech dept. is only open 3 hours a day (what a joke):mad: :mad: :mad:
First what are your pressure's, what type of refrigerant? how did you recharge? with can or machine? did you evacuate the system first or did you just top off?
You need to make sure that your wire going from the gauge to the sending unit is o.k. an easy way to check is to do an ohm check from end to end on the wire and then check another piece of known "good" wire the same length and gauge. They should be close (as I don't know what the resistance value of that wire should be) The connection on the end of the wire could be coroded causing excessive resistance. Just because you have continuity between wire leads doesn't tell you how much resistance you have in that wire. (anybody know what the value's for the sending unit and gauge are?)
