I have the Turbo Coupe brake setup on my Sport Coupe. I had to relocate one of the brackets in the left rear to accomplish this. Unfortunately I didn't get the adjustment set properly and the e-brake was very weak. Soon afterwards it went out all together. The front cable broke and now I can't seem to find the proper cable to replace it with. Rock Auto isn't providing me with much confidence the parts they're selling will work. Can anybody steer me in the right direction. As far as I can tell the left rear and the transverse cables are fine. I'm really regretting not being more organized with my receipts/order forms.
I was dropping off my car at a garage to have the brakes checked out and have a new e-brake cable installed when the cable clutch went out. I initially purchased an adjustable kit (quadrant, firewall adjuster - that doesn't provide much adjustability because of the lack of room with the master cylinder.
I see two basic types of cable clutches, 1) (the type I purchased originally) with a threaded end that appears to provide more adjustability at the throughout bearing arm and 2) with a ball/stud on the end with assumed to be no adjustability at the throughout bearing arm.
With my original cable setup I did have to purchase a spacer for the quadrant to tighten up the slack. I'm not sure how (if it can be) to adjust option #2 above. Would this be a safe option to go with? Can it be adjusted at the throughout bearing arm? It seems to be more readily available on-line.
I thought it had to be raised to take any load off the tower braces and installed in that manner to allow the brace to take the brunt of any load when the car is on the ground. I realize the primary purpose of the brace is to provide support when cornering for the unibody foxbody but I thought this was best accomplished by installing it when the load of the car is not resting on the front wheels. If this isn't the case, does anybody think installing it this way would cause any advantage/disadvantage? It sounds like the instruction to jack up the car is purely a suggestion and is not required to fulfill the purpose of the brace. It sounds like I might have some freedom to experiment with location of jacks when installing the brace. Any recommendations/suggestions/experiences would be greatly appreciated.
I do have a fuse that needs to be replaced. My radio, clock and whatever else is on that fuse is out. I don't know why that would be related. The rest of the gauges on the cluster are working fine although when I did brake aggressively after running the car pretty good the gas gauge went up to full and then back to 3/4 full. Years ago the car was in a minor fender bender (it had been bounced off a guard rail and needed a right front and rear quarter panel replaced) and for a while after that, the cluster would act weird where the temperature, gas and oil pressure would all peak for a bit and then settle back in normal mode. I haven't noticed any issues for a quite a while with the rest of the cluster however the speedo needle has been acting funny consistently since I swapped in the T5 about six months ago.
I have a strut tower brace I am planning on installing but do have an issue with the instructions that came with it. While the directions say to jack up the car and put the front end on stands, they don't say where to place the stands. Shouldn't this be important since it will have (at least from what I am thinking) a great deal of influence on where and how much flex the brace will be loaded for? Any advice on where I should place the jack stands when set my pilot holes and install the brace?
I have a leak at the oil sensor in the oil pan and one of the members here suggested I either replace the sensor or remove the sensor and cap it off with an oil drain plug. There is nothing wrong with the sensor but if those are my two options, I'm leaning towards removal and capping off the hole. Can anybody tell me what's all involved with this? Do I need to drop the pan to do this? What size drain plug is required (I have standard drain plugs but I'm not sure they're the right size). What do I do with the sensor when I remove it; do I cut the wire and cap the end?
I replaced the speed sensor and that fixed the speedometer for the most part. When I sit idle the needle still fluctuates between 0 and say 8 mph. It's enough to notice the mileage creep up on the odometer when sitting at a longer intersection. When traveling the needle is controlled at least for the 5 or 6 miles I tested it with. Any idea what would cause this to happen?
jrcassity, you were correct. The speedo gear was half hanging out of the transmission. I order a new one from RockAuto and will hopefully have it by the end of the week. Thanks for the direction.
I got my car out a few weeks ago and tested it out on the highway and ended up breaking my speedometer needle although I don't exactly know how one does that. The gauge on the '88 Sport Coupe will only show hashes up to 95 mph and the needle was bouncing around 96 for a bit before it ended up back at 0. Since then I have driven a few hundred miles and of course only registering about 10 miles. The speedometer needle will still from time to time bounce around but not consistently. When it bounces is the only time it will measure miles driven. All of the other gauges in the cluster work perfectly fine. How do I fix the speedometer needle is my first question? My second is, while fixing my speedometer, can I also replace the cluster light? I have been thinking about replacing the factory green bulb with a blue one. Thank you for your support.
Well, I didn't do anything new from last time I drove my car but this past week I had to get my T-Bird out of the garage because my daily needed a new radiator hose and much to my surprise the Bird shifted like champ. After driving for about a half hour on four different occasions and then having to back up to pull my car in the garage, it shifted in reverse just as smoothly as any other gear. I appreciate all of your feedback and am very relieved I don't have to worry about shifting into 5th before reverse. It is so much fun driving.
I'm sorry I don't have any pictures right now. I'll see what I can do though. The ball stud is new and it came with the bell housing I ordered from a popular Mustang vendor but I can't remember the exact name right now. The clutch pedal is from a fox body Mustang GT ('87 I believe) -- I ordered that through E-Bay. The cable is new and came with an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster. It is for a fox body Mustang so I didn't think there would be any difference between that and the T-Bird.
Is the 20 mm drain plug bolt you used the same size as the other oil pan bolts for the T-Bird? I'm about to order some of the standard bolts but I don't want to is they're not the right size you used to cap off the sensor. If they're not the same size, how did you find out what the right size was? Thanks Mike.
The only piece of equipment I have that was used is the bellhousing -- new throwout bearing arm & gear, cable clutch, flywheel, pressure plate........ It sounds like I might have to tighten up the clutch a bit more then. Does this make sense with my observation that it shifts great when I first back the car out of the garage and then after going through the gears begins to shift harder -- that while the clutch may not be fully disengaging it isn't an issue at first because the car was sitting idle and therefore I don't have to wait for the gears in my transmission to stop spinning before trying to get it in reverse. Would this also make sense that first and reverse would be my most challenging gears to get into. On a scale of one to ten (ten being the hardest and one being the easiest I'd have to say reverse is an 8 and first is a 3 after I've driven it a bit.)
I did quite a bit of work on my car and part of it included replacing the rear main seal, oil pan gasket and I removed the smog pump and accompanying plumbing. I am now leaking oil a bit where the plumbing entered the back of the heads. I know I should buy the bolts/plugs designed to close off those holes rather than using the back of the blocks that were part of the plumbing for the smog pump. My biggest problem is an oil leak at what looks like an oil sensor in the left side of the oil tank. Is this an easy fix or do I need to drop the entire oil pan? Thanks in advance.
