I took everything our from the lers back. Just left a short tube to direct the exhaust flow down just in front the rear axle. The cat converter went the way of the s yard last year. Just put a straight pipe thru to the lers.
I have several that may be usable. The original bulbs are listed as halogen. Those get really hot. Several years ago I went thru a phase and got just about every digital dash I could get off of ebay. One guy sent me 3 boxes of parts. I think he was just glad to get rid of the stuff. My Cat at the tyme was a 88 LS with the stock electronic speedo but buttstuffog gauges. At one tyme I had a complete working full digital dash on my workbench. Eventually I went to the XR7/Turbo Coupe package until I had a "small" electrical fire at 3am on the freeway. The voltage regulator decided that was the perfect tyme and place to go up in smoke. My current Cat has all the bells and whistles. Except the lunch/dinner cooking option. BTW, I am south of you guys. Ft Smith, AR. My in-laws used to live in Overland Park. PM me and we'll see what I can do to help.
I am running 16" "snowflakes" shod with 225x60 in front and 235x60 in back. I lowered the suspension by 1" and I think the handling is pretty good for a "poorman's" project. I picked up the rims for $75, and a TC hood for $50. I did have to get the center caps for the rims, but that was actually easy.
MY 88 Cat has the premium sound system, however back in 1995 grandma had noise issues with the controls in the head unit, and the dealer replaced it with a straight AM/FM/Tape head unit. So no power to the amp behind the back seat. Or to the built in cross-over. I've tried just about everything I can think of to "hotwire" it.
Last summer I found a NOS Ford remote system. It is intended to be installed by the dealer. I think it was about $50 also. My Cougar has the keyless entry system so it was a fairly easy project. Mostly laying upside down under the dash. It is nice to open the trunk remotely.
As for another option, I got a used floor shifter out of a Lincoln on ebay 2 yrs ago for $60. The only hole I had to make was on the driver's side of the tunnel for the cable. There even are mounting holes for the front of the shifter on the inside of the tunnel. As for the console even if you have to make one, it's fairly easy. No tricky curves,
If I remember right you have to put a 100 ohm resistor into the circuit to get it to charge properly. I did the conversion to my 88 3.8L a few years ago. My "other" 88 has the full digital package. But I am thinking of doing the digital to buttstuffog swap in it. Including dropping the tank.
If I remember right, you have to put a 100 ohm resister in the mix to get the alternator to charge. I did the swap from the base digital to buttstuffog a few years ago in my 3.8L 88 cougar.
I had an electrical issue with my '88 Cat, V6, converted to the buttstuffog gauge package. About a year later the 5v regulator fried, literally, at 3am. I ended up building a 5v regulator. ( I am an electronic tech) this fixed things. I now have a 88 Cat with the full digital package, and 5.0. So no more regulator issues.
I am putting the Mk7 shifter into my 88 Cat. No big hole to cut in the floor pan, and the rear mounting holes are already in the pan. What I wanted to know is how do you get the shifter off? It's leather and I want to recondition it before I put it in.
I have made some artwork from my old "consolette" I was going to have a silkscreen made for it. I wanted to do a white panel underneath and light from below to get the lettering to show. I now am putting a full console and floor shifter, but I still have the artwork. Also did some in a fancy lettering.
I did the cleaner/polish on the lenses, and the lens came out great, but what i have found is the reflector inside is shot. And there is not a true chrome paint. Having them re-chromed is terribly pricey. I have looked at the replacement headlights for the later fox mustangs and they look to be the same. Has anyone tried these out?
I tried the gorilla glue and it didn't hold for me. I ended up sanding the glass bottom with emory cloth so the clear silicon could get a grip on things. Been working for over 2 yrs on the drivers side, and 1 yr on the pass side,I also drilled holes thru the nylon clips, because that is where the glue was failing.
